Liquid Sculpey: Someone I knew used it. She made a rubber mold of her model, poured the liquid Sculpey in it, then baked (mold and Sculpey together) in the oven. After it was baked, the Sculpey was removed from the mold.

Viola

Liquid Sculpey: Glass Attic has a big section on Liquid Sculpey:
http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/LiquidSculpey.htm
If you haven't found this site yet, it's a tremendous encyclopedia on the subject of polymer clays.

Dona Vaughn

More on Liquid Sculpey: Talk about synchronicity, I was at an art store today (Texas Art Supply in Houston for any lurking Houstonians), and they were selling Translucent Liquid Sculpey. The brochure calls it a "bakable transfer and color medium." You can use it to make transfers from offset printed images like magazines, black and white and color photocopies and colored pencil drawings. The brochure also says you can add oil paints, but not acrylic paints, to make a bakable painting an surface medium. But the best use for miniaturists seems to be as an adhesive. It makes a strong bond when baked. "With small sculptures, brush a thin amount to the base of an arm or leg before pressing it to the body." It's supposed to have more of an odor when baking than the other Sculpey clays.

Dona Vaughn

Slicing polymer clay: Having made mini foods in the past, I would suggest that for things you want to slice (like your candies) that you bake them, not boil them. Boiled clay tends to be very brittle and I'd recommend it only if you don't have access to an oven. Put the candies on a baking sheet lined with tin foil or on an old pie pan and bake, then while they're still warm, slice them quickly with a SHARP, new razor blade. If they look whitish or cloudy, or are crumbly, pop them back in the oven and bake a few minutes more, then try to slice again. If the canes get too cool as you're slicing them, you can warm them up in the oven again, then continue slicing.

Celeste in Boston

ProSculpt: Maria asked if anyone had used ProSculpt ( a brand of polymer clay) I have. It has its good and bad qualities. I found it a bit too mushy, especially if you want to use it in a mold. But the color is great, especially, the one they call 'ethnic'.

Alice Zinn

Pro Sculpt: Yes, I use Jack Johnston's clay Pro Sculpt regularly for doll making, as part of my clay 'recipe.'. It's an excellent product with a very life-like coloring. However, the translucency can be a problem for tiny dolls. I found that when using ProSculpt alone, the small facial details tended to get 'lost.' When I've done is mix three clays (and someone will rap my knuckles for mixing!) because each provides a different property, either matte (reflective) quality, translucency or flexibility when sculpting.

Here is my recipe: 1 part Puppen Fimo plus 1 part ProSculpt. Blend well. Add two parts Premo (another polymer clay) and mix well. There is the tendency to get the dreaded 'half moons' (little white spots which look just like their name) because of air trapped beneath the surface of the clay when baked. I try to keep this down to a minimum by kneading and kneading. Also, I don't bake the clay for as long as the package suggests. In the lighter colours, I find it darkens too much. (ie. looks burnt.)

Diana in Canada

Prosculpt polymer clay: I use it for all my miniature dolls and it is brilliant stuff. Once it is baked, I go over it with acetone to remove fingerprints and then I use Aquaclour which is a theatrical make-up and brush that all over. Then I leave it for a couple of minutes and wipe the bulk of it off. Any problems with translucency are removed this way. It also 'primes' the clay so it takes acrylic paints better, and settles into creases, lines and features - gives the dolls more life. This is a tactic I gleaned from my all time favourite book on mini dolls - 1/12th scale character dolls for the dollshouse by James Carrington. One I recommend anybody interested in miniature doll making should buy!!

Trace

Clay: A few digests ago someone wrote to ask about Fimo stone. I have used it to make kitchen tiles and loved the results. In Mary Kaliski's book on Making Miniatures from Polymer Clay there is a whole section on flooring. I have also made a really great marble floor ballroom using her method.

Marje

1/4 scale dolls: I have not attempted something this small, but here's my suggestions:
1) try a different medium - I don't know which is which, but I know that Fimo, Sculpey, Sculpey III, paperclay, etc. each have a different consistency and pliability. Maybe one that is less pliable would work better.
2) make the body out of wire, not sculpting medium. This way you're not continuing to handle the head once it's formed. Take a piece of wire and hold it vertically; from the top (neck) come down as far as the torso length will be and bend the wire slightly at that point - then go down as far as the leg will be (including foot length), and fold the wire back on itself. Bring the wire back up to the top of the leg and bend it back down again for the second leg, then back up on itself again. Twist it once around the hip area, then run it up to the shoulder area - leave enough at the top for the neck, including enough length to insert into the head. At the shoulder point, bend the wire out sideways and run it the length of an arm and hand, then back on itself to the shoulder, loop it once to anchor, and then across for the other arm. Back to the shoulder and loop it once to anchor and cut off remainder. Then crimp the leg and arm ends to form hands & feet. Form your head & stick it on top, then air-dry or bake upright. You can even add sculpting medium over the wire for hands and feet. I think this would be much easier and require minimum handling of the head.
3) paint, don't sculpt, the head/facial features.
4) Make the head out of a bead or something rigid that can be painted.

Graceanne

¼ Scale Sculpting: Once I saw a picture of a lady in a magazine, who was making a mini vase out of clay. She had a large bump of clay on the rotation wheel and on top of it she had this little vase 'growing'. Couldn't you do something just like that: take a large bump of fimo and let your little doll grow out of it? It's worth a try, I think.

Marjon de Haas (The Netherlands)

50s Moderne Open House: I finished my quarter scale 50s Moderne House and would like to invite you all too see it.
http://www.wishbooktoys.com/dollhouse/50s/

John Medeiros

1/4 scale dolls: First I use a softer clay (I like pro-sculpt). I then put it on something to hold it so you never have to actually touch the face or head, such as a toothpick or putting it on foil, visit http://perfect-touch.com/ or visit my website http://BitsnPiecesOnline.com I am linked to them, and invest in some of their sculpting tools. They have war gaming tools that are incredibly small. I have the size up from that. They make all their tools and are very, very nice.

Joni

1/4" Sculpting: I have been trying my hand at sculpting in 1/4" scale as well. I feel your pain, lol. Actually I found a different sculpting medium for the smaller scales. The commercial name is Kneadatite. It's a blue and yellow ribbon epoxy. You take the two separate halves and mix them together until the mixture turns dark green. The texture is very similar to chewed chewing gum, yuk! The mix has about a three hour working time. It is easily added to and sticks well to itself. I have never had any adverse reaction from the epoxy, although I wash my hands after each use. I like it much better than Sculpey, etc. because I have hot hands. I'll try and post some pics of my leprechauns sometime soon. I've been sculpting a bunch of goblin heads for a doll maker from the movie, Labyrinth. I'll post some pics of them as well.

Shaun C

Crumbly Fimo/Liquid Sculpey: All I can say is to hang in there. You might try, as some folks do, using a small heating pad to warm the Fimo, because it's mostly warmth that stops the Fimo from being so crumbly. The softener does help, but you still have to knead a lot. (And, no, I don't think that you can use fabric softener...or rather, you could try it, but I don't think it would have any effect at all.) I have Fimo that is years old, and using the Fimo softener definitely does help to bring it back. Here is one of the best sites I've ever seen on polymer clay:
http://www.glassattic.com/ This has so much information on all of the clays, including preparing the clays, and for Judie, who wanted more information on Liquid Sculpey, they have that too. Wonderful site for anyone working, or wanting to work, in polymer clays.

Kaye in L.A.

Angie Scarr: I just got a note from Angie saying that her first book is out!
http://www.compclub.demon.co.uk/asmini.htm
I have all three of her videos and love them. After watching her techniques I made my own cored apples and peeled bananas and now I see she has those now too! You have to see the close-up of her tomato slices! How did she do that???
http://www.compclub.demon.co.uk/angie/saladslices16.jpg

Judy K

Angie Scarr's new book: I just had to write and let all of you know about an outstanding new Fimo food book. I got mine in the mail on Monday. Over the years I have looked at just about every Fimo book to come along. This one is so well down with lots of photos showing you step by step how to make a large selection of fruits, veggies, meats and seafood. The written instructions are also well done. This book is for both the visional people and those that learn best by reading.

This book is great for the beginner and has things for more advanced mini makers. As you see how Angie has done something ....... you think of uses of your new found skills to make other things. This is her web page. There you will find complete information for ordering her book. http://www.compclub.demon.co.uk/asmini.htm

Ann Fisher

Angie Scarr's New Book: Hello everyone, just had to let you know that Angie Scarr's book is out, I received mine yesterday and . must say I am very impressed with it. It is very well done, and presented in full colour throughout. It runs the gamut from conditioning of clay, through The Bakery and Deli, meats, fruit and veggie, fish, including lobsters and crabs, and last but not least directions for a market stall complete with crates and baskets. Contact Angie at http://www.angiescarr.co.uk for more information on this book. By the way did you know that Angie is going to be at the Philadelphia Miniaturia this year.

Jean Brattan

Parrot project: When reading your question I remembered a project by Sue Heaser I once stumbled upon at Polymer Clay Central. It's a Victorian birdcage with a parrot, and has some good explanations on how to sculpt the bird from - guess what? - polymer clay :)
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/pcc/featured/parrot1.html

It doesn't use real feathers, but maybe you could make the body out of an air-drying clay and stick the feathers into it before it dries? Or glue the feathers onto the polymer clay body.

Åsa in Fairfax VA

KLAY GUNS - Oh yes, you need to be Superman to get the polymer clays through it. But sometimes they can be really useful and here are some hints to make using them easier. 1. Knead your polymer clay (mixed with Mix-Quick to soften it all the more) until it is super soft. 2. You can coat the barrel of the tool with baby oil (I have never tried this but it is mentioned in a few instruction books. 3. Mix your color, fill the barrel and hand the Klay Gun to someone you know with strong hands (perhaps your DH), and have them extrude your clay. 4. If all else fails, you can try to stand on the two handles, plunger side down and your weight will extrude the clay. If anyone thinks I am joking here, then you have never tried to use a Kemper Klay Gun - desperation inspires ingenuity. There was also a question as to how to clean the gun. Bake the gun in the oven on low temperature for about 10 minutes. Let cool....the baked clay is easy to pick off the metal tool.

Mary Eccher

Extruding clay with a Klay Gun: I'm not sure if someone mentioned this already, but my sister mentioned that a polymer clay artist on Carol Duvall recommended the following:
Roll the logs of clay that you want to extrude.
Place a clay log in the Klay gun.
Heat a clay warmer pad.
Place the Klay gun in the warmer pad for 5 minutes.
Remove Klay gun and extrude the clay.

Alix in San Francisco