Bricks from wood strips. Find the strip that is the width of the brick you want, then measure the length of the brick and score the strip with an exacto saw blade being careful not to saw through the strip. If you make a jig you can score several pieces at a time. I use the miter box that comes with the saw and mark the length of the brick on the miter box, as you score several strips you slide the group matching the score line with the mark on the box and score again. When you have a proper number of scored strips you glue them onto the structure staggering the score lines. When completed you give it a base coat of the brick color of choice. When that is dry you can sponge the different shades onto the brick in a random pattern. When dry use a sealer and seal the bricks. To grout the bricks you can use Elmers wood filler, fill in the score lines and before the grout sets wipe with a damp sponge to clean of the bricks. When it is completely dry mix a dirty wash and brush on, this will color the grout and give depth to the bricks when you gently wipe over the bricks with a dry paper towel to bring out the high lights. You can also use pastels to do the shading to antique the bricks.

Ellen P

Bricks   from Vinyl Tiles-

I've used them to 'pave' a floor and make fireplaces, hearths, etc - I got 12 x 12 floor tiles that were a good brick pattern.  They have to be the 'old fashioned' kind of tile that will bend and snap - not the newer vinyl tiles that are quite bendable.  (I assume these 'cheapies' are still made -check Color Tile or somewhere similar.)   The 'brick red' ones are probably the most quickly identified as 'brick' in a mini room, but you can use one of the other colors.  The texture of the tile, when seen 'up close', is the important thing.  The tiles with a lot of 'grit' in them - that almost crumble along the lines of breakage, when bent, are what you need - but may be hard to find, now that there is so much 'vinyl' tile on the market.  

Make mini bricks like this: Mark appropriate widths of 'brick' with ruler and pencil.   (An average brick is about 3-1/2" wide, through they vary a lot.)   With an X-acto knife and ruler, score the tiles - then score the 'stripes' vertically the 'length' of the brick....about 8" (in 1:12).   Snap the little bricks apart. This gives an irregular edge that makes the bricks looks more 'authentic' when laid. 

I made a template of the floor area to be covered, then cut a piece of posterboard exactly that size and shape.  I laid the 'brick' on the floor posterboard by first drawing in the rows, using pencil and ruler, then glued the bricks  using a regular white craft glue.  (Apply only the minimum amount of glue - since the moisture in the glue may make it curl.  I like the Delta Quick n Tacky and Aleene's new Quick Dry Tacky since they hold well.   The 'Grab' glues would probably work well, too.   Allow a tiny 'joint' between each brick, and keep the rows of brick straight.  

Since you do such beautiful floors, I don't have to tell you to be sure that your bricks show at least a half brick - preferably a full brick, in those areas which will be seen.... and 'fudge' in areas which will be covered by furniture or other architectural features.... but other readers may need a reminder about this. 

Let the new bricked floor dry 24 hours.  Then get a latex based caulking material (which cleans up with water), that is the color of 'grout' desired. If you can't find the right color, you can color it with regular acrylic paints. Following the instructions - for basic use - but apply to the brick as you would grout tile - working with only a small section at a time, since it will dry quickly.  Use a spatula or something similar, as a flexible putty knife, and spread the 'grout' over the brick - working in about 4" x 4" sections.  Work it into the cracks between the brick, then remove the excess.  Quickly wipe with a damp paper towel to remove all the 'grout' from the surface of the 'brick'.  Grout the entire floor in this manner, and then let dry 24 hours. Although the use of latex-based caulk does minimize the tendency of the posterboard to curl, you may wish to weight it down with books, while the caulk dries.   (An alternative to this might be to spray paint - with acrylic paint which would dry almost instantly - BOTH sides of the posterboard floor before proceeding, to 'seal' the posterboard and keep it from absorbing any moisture in the glue or caulk. 

You can then glue in your finished floor with YES glue, or whatever you prefer.   You could also try an application of regular floor wax on a test piece, to see if it gives a softer, 'worn' patina of old brick you might like. 

You can also make a 'stone' floor, using irregular 'stone' shapes, if you get a limestone, granite or marble type 'stone' finished tile.  The nicest thing about this technique is that you don't have to be nearly as precise as one of the beautiful inlaid floors that you have!  

Linda Gale, Artisan, I.G.M.A.

TO MAKE BRICKS - I mixed a tad bit of blue with red (but plain terra cotta looked great too), rolled it out at thin as I could get it right on the (Airbake) flat cookie sheet.  I  then used a metal ruler to score the horizontal lines and the back of an exacto blade to score the alternating vertical lines.   Then I sprinkled the bricks lightly with colored sands... beige & black... slightly rolled again to embed the sand but not hard enough to roll out the shape or scored lines and baked.  After baking, I gray-washed (watered down gray  paint) and wiped.  A little bit of the sand comes off when you wipe and it leaves a blotted color on the bricks while filling in the scored lines like mortar. Looks very realistic.  The bricks can be easily scored with a sharp knife but I try to make the size to fit my project so I don't have to cut.  I also used this technique to make brick planters. 

Lauriel Of Nags Head North Caro

Warping Foamcore: So this is what I've learned. 1/4" thick foamcore can't be used with paperclay. But paperclay, as Rik has proved, does make great stone and brick and rock. Still, Harry Potter's classroom needed a floor so I made a new floor using the technique Joanne Swanson used in her wizard's classroom how-to in Dollhouse Miniatures. She said to use 1/2" foamcore but I had none, so I used the 1/4" and worked fast. I scribed the rock outlines on the floor as Joanne directed and painted a grey basecoat with bottle acrylics. These dry fast so within 10 minutes I turned the foamcore face down on wax paper, rubbed water over the back with my hands, added more wax paper and weighted it all with some very heavy horse reference books overnight. Did this again for another basecoat the next day. After that I was able to add shading with paint for more realism but the foamcore stayed flat.

I think the Paperclay just had too much moisture over a long period of time for this technique to work.

Denise Pritchett

1/24th Components: Try http://www.halfscaleminis.com they have just about anything halfscale (24th) you might want, and if not on the website email Kathy Thomas (the owner) and she is sure to be able to help you. Also, you can get bricks from http://www.grandadstoys.co.uk and then http://www.richardstacey.com

Marja Lewthwaite

Street of shops: I've made five of them (did two of the larger shops) They are: soda parlor, garden shop, gourmet shop, candy store and baby shop. I used all kinds of different gingerbreads and colors to set each one apart. They all have brass coach lamps, address numbers, copper bay roofs. I'm in the process now of changing the inside lighting so that each one has it's own transformer. The plexi top is being exchanged for an 1/8th inch wood top. I used ceiling beams to hold the chandeliers in each shop. If I were to do them again, I would definitely make the back hinged and have a solid top. That way you can get in them easier. Oh well, live and learn. I love mine all stretched out on a wall shelf with gray brick sidewalk to unite them. They are all FULL and I mean full. I collected for them for quite awhile.

Roberta in Wisconsin

Multi-Grip Hardware, Household &   Marine Adhesive: Speaking of praising and glowing about glues... Here is the new glue I just discovered.   Works as well as Quick-Grab without the mess, or losing half the tube to the clogged nozzle; great bottle, somewhat  like theTacky Glue bottle but clear;   bonds Tile, Brick, Concrete, Wood, Glass, Leather, Fabric & Plaster.  Waterproof and dries crystal clear.  With all those credentials, silly me, I find it great for Polymer Clay work - neat and clean.

Anyway, it is Multi-Grip Hardware, Household &  Marine Adhesive (by Beacon)   I bought mine at my local hardware store (another place we miniaturists lurk).  Hope you can find it to try it.

Mary (Eccher)

Making Bricks: The pasta machine bricks, I believe are ours, and you can find them on our website. http://www.thomasopenhouse.com   Happy bricking.

Noel & Pat Thomas, IGMA Fellows, NAME AOH

Bricks: I rolled paper clay out thin (about 1/8" thick) and used the sawed off part of a disposable bristle brush that Rik provided at the class, and pounced it over the clay surface to give it a used and porous look. You can even gouge it a little here and there for a really used look. Then I used the little wooden thingy that Rik provided at the class to divide the clay into brick pieces. Of course you don't know what little wooden thingy I'm talking about. It's a thin wedge of wood with tapered edges. You can use the edge of a putty knife too. I was just too lazy to go out in the shop and look for it, LOL.

Now paper clay shrinks so I divided mine into rectangles,1/2" by 1", and they shrunk up okay for my immediate use. One day I will most likely experiment around until I get the right size raw, to shrink down to the right size dry. The trick is to divide the bricks first and let the clay dry, because as it dries, it separates at the cut edges.

I forgot one thing: it sticks so roll it out on a piece of glass, marble, or granite so that you can ease it up with a putty knife when its dry. The neatest thing is when it dries it shrinks like I said, and the bricks almost break themselves apart. Now that it is all dry you can apply you paints and washes, and Voila, you have some pretty nice bricks. I bet someone else has a better idea, but this worked for me.

Carol Wagner, Joshua Tree

Bricks: You could try using a thin slab of styrofoam (NOT the kind that has little "balls" in it) by scoring across it with a pencil, and then alternating vertical lines to look like bricks. Now paint across in a brick color. The scored section can be painted grey or left white.

Viola

Brick slips in UK: Standard bricks in UK are 9" x 3". Richard Stacey supplies slips cut from real bricks (mini-sized 3/4" x 1/4" x 1/16") richardstacey@easthampnett.freeserve.co.uk (Fax/phone: +441243 533132 http://www.richardstacey.com He sells at fairs and through shops - not sure if he sells direct. I think that they are available from http://www.JoJays.com and http://www.maplestreet.co.uk Both supply worldwide.

The product is a delight to work with - easy to 'cut' and (I think) looks wonderful - after all they're real bricks!!

One of his styles / colours can be seen on the Flower Shop - took nearly 2000 slips to cover this wall hanging 1/2 house (front and 2 sides). Pictures at: http://www.picturetrail.com (view album = mini-jane)

Jane, Warwickshire, UK

bricks and stone: On making bricks: I have used Das terra cotta air-drying clay. I roll it between two sheets of wax paper. Score lines using the edge of a steel rule. When leather dry it can be cut with scissors. It takes paint washing well for color variation and can be stippled for texture. I have also taken scored wood (very thin, maybe 1/32) and broken apart the strips. Painted them, snipped and glued individual bricks. These can be seen on my Colonial farmhouse at http://www.picturetrail.com/l.b.lee on the brick piers holding up the front porch pillars as well as the bedroom and study fireplaces. Then look at the stone piers under the brick ones. For these, I used the Rik Pierce techniques. Shape paper clay, stipple with a pouncing stiff bristled stencil brush and then paint wash. Both products are available at Joann.

Linda in Leroy, OH

Bricks: Here is my method for making bricks. I use Das terra cotta air dry clay. I run a small amount through the pasta machine to the thickness desired. On a sheet of paper I have drawn a whole sheet of bricks the desired size. I put a heavy clear plastic over this. The piece of clay is laid on this. I take a long straight sharp edge and line it up with my lines of bricks and slightly indent the clay. When this is partially dry I break it apart and turn it over to dry as the edges seem to dry first. When completely dry I glue the brick to the surface to be bricked after drawing lines to insure accuracy. When this is dry, I spray with a sealer. Then I mix water putty and apply as mortar, wiping off the excess gently with a wet paper towel. When this is thoroughly dry, dry brush with various colors.

Juanita in Missouri

Most of my dhs have stucco exteriors. I live in south FL so this is the way most real houses look here. I use textured wallpaper in any color because I paint it or sponge on a "natural" finish. It hides many errors in my assembly or kit bashed dhs.

I use greeting cards cut like fancy windows for roomboxes. I wait until the scene is nearly done to get the best placement and style. Pearl's sells a pack for under $6. Most of the dhs have exterior chimneys too. Hobby builders supply sells a block kit which I fit to each dh and cover with textured wallpaper which has squares in the pattern, then I paint it to look like brick and stencil tiny ivy to the finished piece. I suppose thick pieces of Styrofoam could be used for the base too. The square imprinted paper makes excellent tile floors and walls for bathrooms and other rooms where 4x4 tiles are used in real life. I splurge on working windows and other items with the $$s saved on the stucco and bricks!

I splurge on fancy wallpaper and accessories when I use paper windows in the roomboxes. Rhett Butler (by Peggy Nisbit) has a real leather top desk and resin office chair with a leather saddle in the corner of his study with Brodnax wall cover in jungle pattern. His antique celluloid St. Bernard is by his side. I'm still "placing" the paper window. All of the office thingies like folders, etc., are from Jim's printable minis.

Karen

1/44" scale: I don't know weather they carry micro bricks but here is a site for items in 1/44" scale. http://www.wood-street-miniatures.co.uk

Marilyn

Good stuff: http://www.hitechnic stuff.com/products.htm Lego has an electronic wonderment of sensors and lights...Lego size, for those who need something to make something else work. The lights embedded into a Lego brick in different colors could make a lit walkway or ultra modern something. Go look and lets see what this group can invent.

Laurie Sisson

144th Scale Bricks: "N" scale railroad stuff is close enough to the same scale that you can use it for 144th scale. A model railroad store or catalog will have printed bricks, stones, etc. I've seen plastic formed into brick shapes too.

Dona Vaughn

Oz: I bought the 4 resin Wizard of Oz characters put out by Avon, they are aprox 1/2 scale. I plan to make a display scene for the set. What I plan is to paint the backdrop with a blue sky, rainbow and the Emerald City. Winding through the base of course will be the "Yellow Brick Road." I plan to put the apple tree on one side and thought that the Poppy Field would be nice to have on the other side.

Rusty in Ky

Dremel Hole Cutters: Several people have emailed me asking for additional information on the Dremel Hole Cutter. The Hole Cutter isn't very expensive. It was actually designed with the Home Repair Handyman in mind instead of the miniaturist. You can probably find it in the tool section of your local home improvement store, I purchased mine at Wal-Mart.

The hole cutter is an attachment with bits. There are two different attachments. One is flat bottomed so your tool sits at a 90 degree angle from your work, the other is angles so you are at a 45 degree angle. I would suggest the flat, 90 degree angle tool for most of your miniature applications. The end cap unscrews from around the bit holder on your Dremel tool and this attachment screws on. You place the bit of choice that is specifically for the attachment in your tool and you are ready to go. To my knowledge, there are three bits that are made for this attachment, but they may have more on the market by now. There is one for drywall-any lighter material you need to cut, one for wood and onefor tile. I have the bits for drywall and wood, which came with my attachment when I purchased it. I have not had a need to cut holes in tile, brick or anything more substantial yet, so I don't know how well that bit works.

The attachment for cutting holes does several things. It gives you a steadier cut because the bottom of the attachment fits against the wood so you can concentrate on following your line. It gives you a much cleaner cut than using a jig saw because you are working with a finer bit with less vibration than you could get with a jig saw. It's excellent if you construct your house and then decide you want an additional opening because you don't have to pull it all apart again, and you can get to spaces you couldn't get to with a scroll saw. This is one of the less expensive attachments that Dremel has and I think if you do a lot of construction and woodworking yourself, one you will get lots of use out of. One of the people I emailed directly before I started getting so many questions took a copy of the email with them when they went to look for the attachment, so if I still haven't made this clear, you may want to do that as well.

Peggy

Dremel Flex Shaft: The flex shaft is not necessary but it's really convenient, specially when doing miniature work. I used a Dremel for more than 40 years without a flex shaft. Now that I have one, I wouldn't be without it. What it does is let you use the Dremel like you would a pencil. It lets you get into smaller places with your choice of bits. It means you are carrying a much lighter weight than the Dremel tool. So, for grinding, engraving, shaping, cutting, etc. it is a worthwhile investment. It will require a way to hold the Dremel tool. The flex-shaft tool holder, a Dremel tool holder and base, a padded vice, or a strategically placed brick will do.

Dave, Bradenton, FL