Settee:  For quick DIY furniture I prefer pizza props (those three-legged plastic tables or Y-shapes).   Use an individual baked-potato basket or small rectangular basket with one long side cut away and the two narrow sides trimmed to armrests for the seating. Glue cording around the cut edges to finish neatly.  Then use wire cutters or toenail clippers to snip one leg off two pizza props, and glue each remaining pair of legs at opposite ends of the basket bottom.  paint, and it's a settee.  Add seat cushion and pillows if desired.  Nice cheap modern wicker for a beach house or porch.

 If you must have Victorian, wrapping cord around the prop legs to make them bulkier, gluing heavy lace trim on the wicker before painting, and/or making a dust ruffle to match the cushions will modify the look.

Loretta Sniarowski

Looking for Anything:  Use good old "google.com" and search under both Web and Images and you will find more than you ever wanted to know!  EVERYONE should bookmark Google.  You have no idea of the information available on the Internet that this search engine can produce!

Bobbie Schoonmaker, IGMA Fellow

WW2 Uniforms:   here is a link I found from the costumer's http://www.costumes.org/ site: http://www.wwiiimpressions.com/

Nursemini

WAC doll circa WWII: My husband works in the museum field and has a special interest in Military History.   So I asked him for help with your WAC doll research.  He says this may be the only source you need: http://www.AWM.lee.army.mil

This is the web site for the US Army Women's Musuem.  It shows both uniform and insignia in detail.  I am sure you could contact them if the web site doesn't answer all your questions.

One piece of info he did give is that early in the War the WACs were an auxillary corps and had their own insignia. The insignia was an Athena for officers, enlisted wore an Anthena on a brass disk. Cap badges were a strutting eagle for officers, enlisted wore a strutting eagle on a brass disk.  Later in the War they became an army corps and wore the same insignia as men.

Jeri Moriarty

Design Center: This is a good one. We have a new club member. She has only been doing miniatures since October but even with a full time job has she ever been busy. She organizes!

She says she puts together a Design Center for each room in the dollhouse she is working on. Just cuts a cardboard box to the same size as each room and puts each item in place so she can see if it fits and how things work together. No putting things in and having to take them out again to work on wallpaper or lighting.

Laurie Sisson

Yard for a large house:  I am building the Thornhill (48 x 24). What I plan to do is, yes, plywood for the yard, but I don't intend to "attach" the house, but the landscaping will be. That way, the house can be picked up and moved, then the "yard" can be picked up, turned any way it needs to be to get through the doorway. When you get to where you are taking it, place the yard, then the house in place on the yard. You could even have pegs or something at each corner of the house for proper placement and to keep the house from shifting with movement.

Rusty in Ky

Water, water, everywhere!: I have been experimenting with a "new" water by Woodland Scenics.  It is called Realistic Water.  I have made ponds for three or four tree trunks so far and am pleased with the results.

Realistic Water is a one-part product. It is used right from the bottle. No heating or mixing. It is important not to pour more than 1/8 inch at a time.  It will dry in about 24 hours, depending on humidity and temperature.  It can be layered which makes it nice to add greenery or fish at different depths.

It does change the color of paint so you should experiment on what color you put on the bottom of your pond or creek. The bottle does not mention this. I often put in tiny stones, gravel and "moss" and that looks good under the Realistic Water.

I have not tried to get this out of a mold. That might not work. I make rocks and earth for the edge of the pond. I paint and apply the grasses and mosses to look natural. The water usually continues visually off the edge of the base so I use a children's non-hardening clay to make a form to hold the water on the edge of the landscaped plywood base. I pour the water and let it cure. Then I carefully remove the clay, leaving an interesting, clear edge that raises above the landscaped base edge. Does any of this make sense?

There is also a companion product called Water Effects. I have not used this yet. The bottle says it is a heavy-bodied product that is moldable and will hold its shape to create pond ripples, water falls or rapid water. It suggests using a paintbrush or toothbrush to shape the texture of the water.  They say it dries clear in about 24 hours. It sounds great and I am going to give it a try one of these days.

Joyce, Toad Hollow Farm

Basic wiring: Cir-Kit wiring kits include instructions for beginners.  Cir-Kit also has an introduction to wiring video.   You can pick one up at your local miniatures store, or check if NAME has one in their video library that you could borrow name@miniatures.org   (317) 571-8094).   Of course, it is better to watch it   and then practice with a teacher, but at least you have other options if that isn't possible.

Tammy in Virginia

Strip lights: Dee's handles the strip lights--they are called Aura Lights and are wonderful for mini rooms.  They are regular 110 volt lights and come in brass, chrome, white, or black.  They are also available in other lengths.  I put them in all my roomboxes.  If you can't find them locally, drop me a line as I keep them in stock most of the time. They aren't really cheap but are well worth the money and they are rated for 4500 hours! OldPuebloM@aol.com

Dottie in Tucson

Woods:  'obeche' as I was told this was the same or very similar to basswood.

Balsa wood is too soft (although technically a hardwood) for making realistic furniture, etc;

Another wood is jelutong, which comes from the latex tree, it also has a fine grain, although I have had pieces with little holes through it where I suppose the latex milk runs.

Maureen in Hemel, UK