"Strapping" down the Dremel: I hope by "strapping down" the Dremel you mean to hold it securely so you have two hands free. I will assume that is your intention. I have done this. The method I used is as follows;

I obtained a piece of channel metal; the channel wide enough for the Dremel to rest in but still sit higher then the edges of the channel. I clamped it in place with a steel hose clamp. Then the channel was C clamped to the work bench. I had two hands free after that. I hope this is what you intended.

Drbob...Delray Beach FL

Splitting Wood stirrers; I asked my husband about the problem of splitting wood stirrers. His suggestion is first make sure your drill bits are sharp and not dull. Second of all start the hole with a smaller drill bit and then go with a larger one. I would imagine for blinds you would need a very small hole. Therefore make sure your drill bit is very small and sharp.

Bonnie in Montana

Clamps: here is the page for those into clamps, like us: http://www.americanwoodworker.com/200204/workshop_tips/ The saw horse and panty hose tips look good too, but I'll let everyone else go and look for themselves.

David

Glue gun: As a person who spends a great deal of time doing dhs for others I find that glue guns are good for a quick hold when I use regular types of glue. It holds the pieces together without gluing until the glue sets up.

I also use the glue gun when I know that windows will be removed later for people that just for some reason don't want to put on wall paper at this time. It's easier to remove stairs and windows so they aren't in the way when you put on carpeting mouldings or wp.

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville

DREMEL TUTORIAL; Part 1

A tool is only an aide to assist you in doing the work you intend to do. It is supposed to save time and effort, nothing more. How you know and handle the tool will determine the result.

The Dremel Tool Company makes a variety of tools all of which are very good for their specific purpose. But there are a few that can be used in the vast majority of construction in our hobby of miniatures. Like the all American peanut butter, which is so basic as every parent and child knows; but when you become innovative and put the peanut butter between two pieces of chocolate you have created a whole new dimension. It is the same with some of the Dremel tools. Therefore I will concentrate on what I think is the basic tools and get a bit innovative. It may not be as good as peanut butter between chocolate but then again every ones taste is different.

To be discussed;

Moto tools; variable and one speed.

Flex shaft.

Scroll saw.

Accessories.

It is my personal preference; I have used the above equipment almost extensively and with some variations (tips; jigs and hints) I have used them to the exclusion of all the others. At this time I would suggest everyone interested log onto <Dremel .com> and request a catalogue. It is free. This way you will have a picture and explanation of the item I may be discussing.

I will intentionally try to avoid the use of Item #'s to lessen confusion. Item #'s can be found in the catalog.

As I complete each section I will post it. I might suggest you print it so you can read and look at an item in the catalog at the same time. Or if you own the piece of equipment I am talking about you can handle or (your choice); caress it. I do.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

Glue gun:   the glue sticks for glue guns come in at least two heat ranges. That may be why results vary from person to person. A hot store window or a hot car will melt the glue of even the higher heat range glue sticks, I have watched it happen. If you still have the choice, why take the chance?

Barb Jones

Glues: And speaking of glue, I now import Aliphetic and Super Aliphetic glues which are terrific for putting houses together when you are also nailing or using clamps. They have some tackiness, fill gaps and when you do models they can take a stain. They were specially designed for the thin, tab construction houses like Greenleaf or Corona.

My secret to a permanent shingled roof is to use Quick Grab which should be used sparingly. I work with enough for 5-6 shingles at a time, because the glue sets up fast and sometimes the phone rings.

At first when I started doing houses for others I used Liquid Nails in a caulk gun. It was a bit messy but I learned quickly to control it. However, when I was out of it 2 years later I used Quick Grab, and I haven't gone back. I work fast and don't want to worry about shingles sliding or coming loose later. I've repaired child damaged roofs done with glue guns. For that I'm thankful, because the shingles are usually loose and can be pulled out or I can loosen them with a hair dryer. Those house done with glue guns that have been stored in attics also tend to wilt. QG costs more, but it's worth it.

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville

MiniQult: YOU DON"T HAVE TO SEW! In the world of mini's, you can glue it! Just cut out that fabric with the tiny, tiny squares on it, on any really tiny print to the size you want, plus 1/4 inch, then press the edges under that 1/4, (make two sides the same or different). Cut a piece of flannel, or fleece or any other soft fabric about 1/8" smaller than outside fabrics. Make a sandwich with the fleece in-between the 2 outside fabrics with the right side of the fabrics facing outside (* that makes sense *) Put fabric glue on the turned under fabric. this will close the sandwich together. If you can you might want to take occasional in-out stitch with floss or even regular thread just to make a knot. Leave the knot with about a 1/8" "tail". You can make these knots across the quilt wherever you want and it will make the quilt puffy, or just leave as is. I find that if you press the edges so that it hangs down on the sides, you can have it hang nicely. The lighter weight the fabric is, the better it will drape. A "handkerchief" batiste, for example,, hangs better than one of the cheaper fabrics that have a lot of sizing in it. I also, find that if you wash your fabric first before you work with it at all, it removes all that sizing that stiffens the fabric and then afterwards if you need to stiffen it at all, you can just use fabric sizing or starch to make it smooth. If you want it to permanently be set on a bed. just a bit of glue underneath will hold it down. I hate to see quilts sticking out like a board from the bed, so sometimes I use a bit of tacky gum to hold them down too. good luck.

Ruthanne in sunny, hot, (86), FT.MYERS, FL

Antique quilts: Here is a great antique quilt site that has many beautiful quilts to look at that are shown in good scale, for miniature DIY inspiration. http://www.flash.net/~ logcabin/index.htm  

Joann Swanson

Insulating Foam: Insulating foam is one of the handiest things to have in your workshop. It's very inexpensive and if you see someone who's doing any building, and using sheets of pink or blue stuff, you can probably get them to save you good sized scraps of it for nothing. They throw them away. I use the 1" thick pink kind (under 10 US dollars for a 4' x 8' sheet).

Take a 8x8 piece (or a size that you find comfortable to work with, I have all different sizes, if I'm doing a Bunka rug, I usually use a piece that's about an inch larger then the rug, all around) of insulating foam, lay a sheet of graph paper on top of it, stab a straight pin all the way in at each corner of the graph paper so it doesn't slip, wrap the whole thing like a meat package and after you have the top smooth and tight, secure with scotch tape on the back. This makes a wonderful gluing jig when you're doing a workshop that has to glue two pieces squarely together. I use push pins or t-pins to secure the item. with the graph paper under the saran wrap, you now it will be square. I use the same setup if I'm making a Bunka rug except instead of having graph paper under the saran wrap I put the pattern there.

I use these at home as well as when I'm taking a workshop where I know we'll be doing a piece of furniture or a rug. You can get a sheet of insulating foam for a ridiculously inexpensive amount and it has a ton of uses. I did a Bunka rug workshop for our club and as part of the kit gave everyone a 6x6 piece of this to work on.

- - Use it for landscaping
- - If you have things stick on the end of a pencil that you have just painted, you can stab the pencils into a slab of it til the item dries. I usually keep a scrap piece at the side of my worktable.
- - If you use T-pins (stuck in deep) you can make up a quick little loom.
- - Stick in a couple of needles about 3/8 inch apart and you have a bow-maker.
- - At Xmas, stick in a couple of finishing nails, wrap around with gold wire in a figure 8 all the way to the top, then with a pair of side cutters cut down one section just after the x. shape slightly with needle nose pliers and you have a bunch of ornament hooks.

If you don't want to get the insulating foam, you could always use a ceiling tile. I find the foam less messy. Plus, if I'm in a hurry, I can always run a cut down it with my X-Acto knife, slam it against the edge of a table and have another new work surface.

Jean in Maine