Dremel Hole Cutters: Several people have emailed me asking for additional information on the Dremel Hole Cutter. The Hole Cutter isn't very expensive. It was actually designed with the Home Repair Handyman in mind instead of the miniaturist. You can probably find it in the tool section of your local home improvement store, I purchased mine at Wal-Mart.

The hole cutter is an attachment with bits. There are two different attachments. One is flat bottomed so your tool sits at a 90 degree angle from your work, the other is angles so you are at a 45 degree angle. I would suggest the flat, 90 degree angle tool for most of your miniature applications. The end cap unscrews from around the bit holder on your Dremel tool and this attachment screws on. You place the bit of choice that is specifically for the attachment in your tool and you are ready to go. To my knowledge, there are three bits that are made for this attachment, but they may have more on the market by now. There is one for drywall-any lighter material you need to cut, one for wood and onefor tile. I have the bits for drywall and wood, which came with my attachment when I purchased it. I have not had a need to cut holes in tile, brick or anything more substantial yet, so I don't know how well that bit works.

The attachment for cutting holes does several things. It gives you a steadier cut because the bottom of the attachment fits against the wood so you can concentrate on following your line. It gives you a much cleaner cut than using a jig saw because you are working with a finer bit with less vibration than you could get with a jig saw. It's excellent if you construct your house and then decide you want an additional opening because you don't have to pull it all apart again, and you can get to spaces you couldn't get to with a scroll saw. This is one of the less expensive attachments that Dremel has and I think if you do a lot of construction and woodworking yourself, one you will get lots of use out of. One of the people I emailed directly before I started getting so many questions took a copy of the email with them when they went to look for the attachment, so if I still haven't made this clear, you may want to do that as well.

Peggy

Dremel Hole Cutters: Peggy, You did a good job describing the Dremel Multipurpose Attachment except for the fact that you got it confused with the Grout Removal Tool and equated one with the other.

The flat bottomed guide is for the Multipurpose Attachment and used for cutting designs and holes in various materials. As you said, it has the three bits for wallboard, wood, and ceramic wall tile.

The angled bottom guide is for the Grout Removal Attachment and used with one of two special bits (1/16 and 1/8 inch) to remove the grout between tiles.

Let's ignore the angled one right now. The Multipurpose Attachment is a great attachment for your existing Dremel MultiPro tools. It will cut materials as freely as you can direct it. It is limited in depth and density of the stuff you are trying to cut. Certainly for miniature work such as we do, it is superb. Your description is accurate and should be accepted by miniaturists. I use it and heartily recommend it. The greatest thing about the Dremel tools is the fact that they have so many capabilities offered that you can experiment with attachment and tool associations to solve any mini problem.

Dave Brazelton

Dremel "hole cutters":
The exact name for this "hole cutter" is "Advantage high speed rotary saw" Not only does the collar come off but also the handle. This is a much more powerful machine than the Dremel moto tool. I have used the Dremel Jawed chuck (new accessory) which allows you to use any diameter shank without the need to change collettes. It goes from 1/8" to "0". With the handle off and the cutting guide off the machine is very much like the standard Moto tool; but with more power!. There is another new accessory for this "hole saw" and it allows you to cut circles from 1" to 19"; in diameter. It is item #960. I have one and have used it and find it is a gem of a tool.

Suggestion; If you clamp your wood to be cut onto a piece of scrap and anchor this to the work bench. Place the perpendicular accessory onto the Advantage and you can use the instrument as a saw for ripping or cross cutting. The perpendicular attachment has a depth gauge so you can make a few passes over the cut line going deeper at each pass, of course cutting on the waste side of the cut line. In a pinch it can double as a free moving router. (in this manner) If you are making straight line cuts, I would suggest that you make a fence to press the Advantage against, as this powerful motor my decide to cut off line if you are totally free handing it.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

Flex Shafts on Dremel.: Flex shafts fit on the front (chuck end) of the Dremel tool and act as a flexible extension to the tool. In one respect it is kind of awkward to use because of the stiffness of the shaft in others it is a great advantage. The best advantage is that the hand piece is smaller in diameter than the Dremel tool motor itself thus it fits your hand better and you can get closer with little cutting discs etc. Many wood carvers use flex shafts as it gives them better control.

The flex- shaft is stiff so you don't really have a lot of room to twist it or distort it but once you overcome the limitations it is possible you will leave the shaft on at all times.

I have a Fordham which is a flex shaft machine full time. It can't be converted to non flex. I keep it hanging by my work bench all the time. Now that I have it I rarely use my Dremel. The Fordham is more powerful and turns slower. Also much quieter. When using the Dremel, hand held, or flex hand held, or a Fordham I find a variable speed foot control a must. When you remove your foot from the pedal the tools shuts off right now. If you don't have a foot control it can be somewhat dangerous because you have to fumble to find the switch and can cut yourself (or wind your hair up in a rats nest) before you can stop the tool. It also gives you complete control of the speeds when carving or polishing.

Bill Hudson, Eugene, Oregon

Dremel flex shaft: a flex shaft isn't necessary for a Dremel tool, but can be very helpful. The flexible shaft attaches to the Dremel tool, then you put your bit, sander or other accessory in the end of the shaft. The shaft has a pencil type grip, so you can guide the bit with a light touch. You don't have the weigh of the whole Dremel tool in your hand, just the end of the shaft. Kinda' like using a vacuum cleaner hose instead of trying to suck stuff up straight from the canister.

Jackie from Maryland

Dremel Flex Shaft: The flex shaft is not necessary but it's really convenient, specially when doing miniature work. I used a Dremel for more than 40 years without a flex shaft. Now that I have one, I wouldn't be without it. What it does is let you use the Dremel like you would a pencil. It lets you get into smaller places with your choice of bits. It means you are carrying a much lighter weight than the Dremel tool. So, for grinding, engraving, shaping, cutting, etc. it is a worthwhile investment. It will require a way to hold the Dremel tool. The flex-shaft tool holder, a Dremel tool holder and base, a padded vice, or a strategically placed brick will do.

Dave, Bradenton, FL

Flex-shaft: I have been using the flex-shaft for many years and wouldn't give it up. I use the accessory that clamps on the table, extends about 2 feet up and I hang the flex-shaft from that. That way I can use it at table level and inside the dollhouse. I can reach all the way to the far side of the house with it. I also use mine with a foot control. Sure makes it handy. I did have the one that had a detachable flex-shaft but then bought the one that is permanent. I much prefer this one.

Fannye in TX

Glue applicators for hard to get at places. I can only tell you what has worked fairly well for me. I take a piece of bare copper wire. Not too thin or the weight of it self bends it. About 20 gauge should do it. I cut off a piece long enough to get into the corner of some hard to get to place and dip the end into the glue. Just a dip (very little) and then using both hands I extend the wire to where I wish to place the glue. When I get the end of the wire back I wipe it off with a cloth so it is not going to build up and look like a lollipop and pick up tons of glue. I did the following a few times, if the place I have to get to is around a corner or edge. Before I dip the wire into glue I bend the wire and make a practice dry run to the spot. If the angle and the manipulations get me there, then I dip and deliver.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL

Glue applicators: I just got a Clotilde sewing catalog in the mail yesterday and they have these little bottles for glue, with long skinny applicators. Maybe they are what you are looking for? They have a web site, http://www.clotilde.com their phone is 800-772-2891 and they are called "liquid bottle set". And NO I am not affiliated with them in any way. The catalog has a bunch of neat stuff for mini making.

Karyn Zabrouski

Glue applicators: I've recently added dispensers to my import line. There are 2 syringes with 3 different size needles to give you the results you need in most situations. I actually got them to put the Scenic Water into drink glass, cups and other small spaces. However, I've really gotten more use from them when gluing. In the shop there are all sorts of things that come or get unglued (We do not say broken). These syringes really do the job on fine furniture, etc. minitqs@execpc.com

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville