Books: The only book I found to be extremely worthwhile was the paper one from Cir-Kit that gives instructions for tapewiring. I found that invaluable to start wiring. I'm sure others on this list will know good books on making things and I think it's Earth and Tree that has a very good book selection.

Carol

Canadian Flag printables: You won't believe the different sizes and this site has animated flags as well as more Maple leaves than you will ever need! http://canflag.ptbcanadian.com/

Laurie Sisson

Nail Polish Use: When I was unpacking some teapots made from beads which I hadn't seen for about 5 or 6 years (thanks to Joann S for the how-to), they were the ugliest colour you'd ever seen. I'd used clear nailpolish over pink acrylic paint. The nailpolish had yellowed. You could see where the nailpolish was thicker/thinner by the amount of yellowing. Yuk.

Heather in Toronto

Draping Fabric:  I am finishing out a Willow Crest as an interior designer's studio/display/sales shop, and hope that someone (or many someones) may have a hint or two to help me solve a minor problem. I kit-bashed the house to remove all the walls in the first floor, except for two walls with big archways cut in them between the "foyer" and the rest of the first floor, which I have furnished with groupings of related types of furnishings and accessories (country, traditional/contemporary, Victorian influence, etc.), but my daughter, who is in the know about these things, says that I need more "clutter" in that room. I had planned to add to each "style" vignette a selection of fabric and wallpaper samples from which the customer could choose. My problem is, I am notoriously awkward with fabric, and can't seem to get my "samples" to drape in anything like a realistic way. I have a big leather chair in one vignette and I thought I'd just drape several fabric samples over the back and let them drape down onto the floor, for example -- but my "drapes" all look like stiff little bunches of mini fabric -- not very convincing. Over the years I have read about different methods of "draping" fabric -- wetting, forming into natural looking drapes and letting dry, spraying with hair spray, dipping in modge podge, wetting and forming a draped look over Saran Wrap, etc. -- but none of these seems to work. I have lots of "fat squares" to choose my samples from, and really want them to look natural -- does anyone out there have a fool proof method of getting the effect I want?

My second floor boasts one big room holding a wallpaper and carpeting display unit that covers one entire wall, rolled carpets leaned up against the wall, and a table and chair where the customer can sit and pore over wallpaper and fabric sample books or books on interior decor. There also is a foyer with an elevator door (I took out all the staircases and "installed" an elevator wall on all three floors), and a smaller room with another full-wall unit displaying coordinating wallpapers and a big piece of furniture stuffed with bolts and bolts of different kinds of fabric. I also made lots of fabric and wallpaper sample books that are laying about the place. The top floor is a big office with computer desk and chair, a sitting area, and a small "storage" room cluttered with odd bits and bobs of furniture and accessories. My "designer" is a gorgeous Caco doll in a smart red "wool" dress, and her "customer" is a second Caco lady dressed in a wonderful corduroy pants suit with a lovely shoulder bag. I'm very pleased with the overall effect -- but DO think I need a bit more "mess."

Any hints you can give me on the fabric issue will be greatly appreciated!

Dayle in MD

Roombox Tavern: - just built a 1750's tavern roombox, and I don't know how to finish the top of the box. I framed the front and finished the sides in upright timbers and chinking, but what do you do with the top......all I've ever made before were actual buildings, not roomboxes.

Lynn (No E)

Dremel: Home Depot gives Dremel lessons. They will even do a group class for your mini club; just call them if there's one near you. Or, try their website: http://www.dremel.com/html/started/started.html

Stacey Torres

Dremel: If you visit their web site http://www.dremel.com/html/home_fr.html you will find a wealth of information there. If you go to the Customer Service page, Literature request, you can order a product catalog and a copy of "Projects for the Imagination Uses Guide for Rotary Tools" for free. They also have an owners' club and hundreds of projects on their "Project Finder" page, complete with photo instructions and a list of everything you need to do the project. It is probably one of the best web sites I have ever run across.

David

Dremel: I could not work without my Dremel - I use it for practically everything. If I could only have one bit I think a fiber cut off wheel might be the choice because I could use it to saw and sand. Of course I wouldn't give up any of my bits and I have tons - from diamond to router bits - - I NEED them all. If you are chipping wood or gouging it, you may be putting too much pressure. I was taught a long time ago to always use gentle pressure with any cutting tool (Sanders included) to allow the tool to do the work. Otherwise you will wear out the tool and the bits rather than sand or cut your work piece. Don't give up on that tool though - it is probably the most valuable one you have!

Jacqui in Hilo, Goddess of Chaos

The bucking Dremel (not a Western tale): Any rotating bit will buck when it is applied to a surface when it is rotating at too high a speed. If you are going to use the rotating bit at a high speed to start with (you will have to let me know which bit it was) then you must very slowly apply it to the surface it is going to work on. Occasionally I also will have a bit buck on me and I immediately move it off the surface it is bucking on and gently place it back on the surface - I also may slow down the speed.

Sanding drums will hardly buck. The bits that mostly will buck are the ones that bite into the wood. They are the ones that work by removing very small chunks of the wood while a sanding wheel or drum abrades the wood. If you are using a side cutting bit and this is the one that is bucking or stuttering (that is the phrase used) sometimes you just have to hold the drill tighter and put more pressure onto the bit until it is removing those tiny chunks of wood. The wood that is being worked on has to be firmly held in place. Loose wood will also cause the stuttering (sorry but it is also referred to as chattering. (Both stuttering and chattering are very descriptive words for what we are discussing.)

The loose stock is also a good example of why the wood in a scroll saw has to be firmly held against the "table" of the saw. The teeth of the saw blade in the scroll saw must always face down so they are pulling the wood to be cut down against the "table". If the wood is not held firmly, it will be lifted up by the up stroke of the blade and slammed down on the down stroke, considering the speed of the scroll saw the wood chatters. Like every thing else; experience and hands on practice smooth out the problems attendant with any new procedure or tool experience.

Bob

Dremel: Scorching occurs when the teeth, grit or cutters fill up and can't get rid of the chips or saw dust fast enough then they act as a friction wheel, sort of like when you sand or saw too fast and burn the wood. If the teeth aren't cutting then they must be sliding, which creates heat. Slow it down or move the wood past the cutter, faster.

I have had Dremels for many years and have just picked up a never used, still in the original box, a UNiMAT Lathe & Mill, with tools. I plan to do some serious turning this summer. I control my Dremels' and other motor tool speed with an old sewing machine, foot pedal, speed control unit. AC motor speed is control two ways, which we have like control of, by varying the current (not the voltage) to the motor or varying the number of motor field windings which use a switch to select different speeds. For those who care, the formula is: RPM= 120 x freq./no. of poles.

When drilling, the speed should vary in different metal and wood. Some exotic wood have to be drilled with metal cutting bits while others can be drilled with regular wood bits. I ask my dentist for his "throw away bits" when he's through with them, they'll still work on wood and are great for drilling pilot holes for nails or screws. It take a lot of practice to control a Dremel in one hand and apiece of wood in the other. I usually anchor one or the other down. I find it easier if I strap the Dremel down and move the wood past the cutter. I do the reverse for drilling. Others will have different methods, but these are mine,

Dan in IL