Acrylic Paint: Acrylic paint dries to a plastic-like material, you can dry it on purpose on high quality plastic wrap and peel it off in sheets for a new material. To keep it in the liquid state use the wet palette method described by someone earlier or use the real thing, however don't expect too long a life span, mildew happens fast in FL. Work with tiny amounts at a time, you may want to use an extender to make it more fluid in a dry climate (I can't imagine a dry climate). If you do accidentally get some on clothing or whatever, alcohol takes it off in a sec. that means if you "goof" the thing you are painting you can remove it while wet. Good ole soap and water takes it off if done immediately

Another acrylic paint tip, shake the bottle well, but don't strike against the heel of your hand, can lead to carpal tunnel. The little strips of paint pots are good for working small amounts at a time, either wash out when finished or peel out the paint when it dries out. One more ... very important, you have to let the application dry before painting over, or next to, a freshly painted area. Paint in a nice thin coat, several thin layers is
MUCH better than one gloppy one! Wow, kinda got carried away, I guess you can tell what I do the most of

Nancy in Tampa

Hot glue OR NOT: One way I keep my miniaturing affordable is to scrounge for old kit houses at yard sales, thrift shops, flea markets, and yes even out of the trash, and without fail those that were assembled with hot glue (the majority) must be rebuilt because that stuff just doesn't hold up. One or two summers in a hot attic, and somebody's lovingly crafted, outgrown plaything turns into a stack of kindling -- or my bargain! That's the challenge of budget crafting, to take these, rehab them (starting with wood glue), and find them a new home.

Loretta.Sniarowski

Acrylic Paints: Haven't seen anyone suggest my favorite for saving your paint - freeze 'em. Stick your palette or pot in freezer - and unless it's a very thin layer - will be fine when thawed.

Lexie Johnson

Cutting mat board: I cut a lot of mat board for my gingerbread houses, and I use X-acto blades....many of them! Always use a very sharp blade and a metal ruler if you have one (cork-backed is best.) It the mat board is tearing, change the blade. Also, do not try to get through it in one stroke - it usually takes me three or four passes to get through it

Chris in Minnesota

Hot-glued houses: Wanted to comment on houses being put together by shops with hot glue. this is NOT a good idea. As a former shop owner, I would not have used this method. Hot glue is brittle is not intended for this sort of bond. Sounds as if the builders might be just cutting time corners in order to crank our a few more houses more quickly. I had the experience of putting together a small foam core house with hot glue once - and then stored the thing in an attic. Went up to retrieve it one hot summer's day - - and it slid apart in my hands!

On the other hand - hot glue can be used as a clamp - I have used it in conjunction with a good wood glue - dotting it on joints in a few places to hold the structure until the wood glue sets up - and perhaps that is what the folks in the shop were doing -it does work well.

Phyllis M Artabasy

Cutting mat board: For just cutting mat board on a straight edge, you can use a utility or Exacto knife, preferably with a metal straight edge as your guide. The important things are to have a truly sharp blade and to not rush the cut. Figure on three or more careful runs to get all the way through. A dull blade and pushing down too hard to rush the cut are what mangles the board. I also cut with the right side up, because with even a good cut, there can be little feathery bits left on the "back" of the cut. If you're trying to get the angle cut that professional framers put on the inner edge of a mat, you need a mat cutter. The cheapest one I know of is almost $70. I saw a hand-held one once that was cheaper, can't find it in my catalogs today, but I am guessing it's a bear to use anyway. I had a chance once to use a professional quality mat cutter and found that, while it was definitely easier than a knife and straight edge, it still took some finesse to get it right

Chrissy the Hyphenated

What is the best glue/cement to repair ceramics or pottery?

Superglue Gel. The "Gel" part is important as the regular superglue is runny. The Gel is perfect. I buy it at Wal-Mart and it's very reasonable about $1 for 2 tubes. However, no matter how good you are, a crack will show in the piece. For painted pieces you can try painting over the crack.

Carol

Workshop tips: I wanted to share two workshop tips that I haven't seen anywhere that I can remember. First, I buy lots of scrap strip and trim wood in $1 bundles at my local mini shop. Then I get them home and have a big disorganized mess of wood. To remedy the situation, I went to the office supply store and bought several of the little plastic racks that consist of a set of vertical slots for sorting mail. These work perfectly to keep my wood in order.

Also wanted to share that one of the homemade clamps I use for all kinds of things is hair chompies. They come in many sizes, down to teeny, and with various tensions as well. Very useful!

Linda in Leroy, OH

FIMO cooking times: Polymer clay is a combination of chemicals, they are activated by heat and combine to form the clay in it's baked state. You MUST cook it for a minimum of 20 minutes or the chemical process will not complete, as polymer clay is 'live' until cooked not completing the cooking correctly is potentially dangerous. The temperature of your oven is important, never bake at higher than 130c it will not cook quicker!! this is not cake mixture here it's as near to rocket science that we mini makers get!!! If you're using a pale clay try lowering the temp. just a teeny weenie bit, no lower than 120c.If your stuff is scorching try using a shield of baking foil, cover the delicate pieces with loosely wrapped foil, the foil will diffuse the heat so baking times must be observed. Your average oven takes at least 10mins to reach the set temp. you need at least 15mins cooking time after that, 20mins is the barest limit. Not cooking your clay minis properly can result in them crumbling and falling apart later on, please remember the manufacturer has to conduct rigorous tests on the product before it goes on sale, he/she does know what they're talking about. As a final note, I use polymer clay every day and I have only had one scorching mishap, using my cooker oven and switching the temp just a bit too high. I now use a toaster oven with the temp set at 130c and I bake everything for 30 min.

Jacquie Hall

Future Floor Wax for Fimo: Yes, Future Wax works beautifully for getting a shiny coat on Fimo items. I learned this from Judy Kafka, renown for her Fimo Candy Castles and trains. No stickiness whatsoever. Future is made by Johnson Wax Co. of Racine, Wisconsin and is still available as far as I know. I've used it on my no-wax floors, too, to enhance them.

Jeanette in Wisconsin