Crayola Model Magic: I use Crayola model magic all the time, here are my personal results with the stuff. Storing, use a airtight Tupperware container or Ziploc baggie, just make sure no air gets in.   It isn't reusable if dried, well we can always find a use but..........LOL.   Just a thought if you dry some and chopping the food processor or coffee grinder you might get amazing popcorn.....I am going right now to try it...LOL.

Paint.   Acrylics and watercolors...........I like the watercolors the best, as you don't need much paint at all to color a large piece.   Dab a little on and then start smooshing the clay until it is uniformly the color you want.   Or after it is dry you can paint it then with either acrylic or watercolors

Slicing when dry.....A clay tissue blade cutter works wonderful like butter.

Once dry I have added Hot Wonder Water to it and it has never melted so the temp isn't too hot for it, works great for ponds.

Kathy

Cold Porcelain: try looking at http://petalshoppe.com   to see if it is the product you want.  

SUSAN

POTPOURRI BALLS:
On a strip of wax paper, drop small circles of glue; let set until almost dry.
Peel off glue circle, roll in potpourri to form ball. Let dry. If bare spots show, add touch of glue
and roll again.
OR coat tiny beads with glue and roll in potpourri.
Pile in basket or bowl; use as ornaments on Christmas tree, etc.

NET POTPOURRI PACKETS OR GARLANDS:
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Minutely crushed dried flowers, herbs, etc. One teeny whole bloom in each packet often looks very nice.
Small funnel (can be done without it)
Small bowl spoon
A larger size cut down soda straw (about 3-4 inches) OR glue together a round paper tube of size desired
Tacky glue
Scissors
Fine bridal tulle or netting (examine your laces; some are fine enough to work)
Colorful thread, narrow silk ribbon

1. Cut a strip of netting longer than the soda straw; overlap over the straw and glue edges together. (This is the same principle as used in making bags over a form)
2. Slip net slightly off end of straw and tie tightly; slide back up.
3. Using funnel or narrow spoon, place potpourri in straw. OR use straw to scoop through potpourri to fill.
4. Slide off amount of net and potpourri desired; tie tightly. Make a second tie close to that one. Continue filling and tying with fine gold or silver thread or narrowest silk ribbon until net is filled. Cut between ties for individual packets.
5. For a garland, leave uncut, with longer spaces between ties, looping ribbon in and out, etc., if desired.

FOR NET POTPOURRI BALLS:
1. Cut small square of net and cup over end of straw
2. Fill and tie off. Cut off excess net.

FOR LACE POTPOURRI POCKETS:
Look through your laces for those that have tiny net in the center of small designs. Use a toothpick to apply glue around the lace edge. Add bit of potpourri and place second matching design on top of first; pressing edges together tightly. I find it easier to do these if I leave extra around the designs, glue them together first, then cut around the individual packets. If you want a hanger, insert loop of thread before gluing second piece down.

OPEN POTPOURRI TUSSYMUSSY:
Cut lace designs as above. Glue potpourri in center, leaving lacy edge visible. These look great glued on tree tips, especially with fine thread or ribbon streamers hanging down from back. Again, one teeny bloom looks good.

TOPIARIES:
1. Coat small Styrofoam ball with glue and roll in potpourri.
2. Use dowel or small twig and poke into ball; plant in pot; decorate with ribbons, lace, silk roses.
3. Coat inexpensive plastic toy animals - rabbits, ducks, chickens, etc., with acrylic paint; roll in potpourri. Tie small bow around neck, make hat of small snippet of lace, etc.

These are especially pretty in Victorian-type Christmas decorating, as well as in bathrooms and bedrooms.

Wanna in El Paso

FIREPLACE EMBERS: Somebody was interested in fireplace embers. I have them in 3 sizes, small, medium and large for fireplaces. They work with a fire and bulb which lights them up. They are in stock and if interested your can contact me by return e mail for the price ANNARTW@aol.com at www.worldofminimania.com,

Ann Weiner

Jewelry:
Here are some mini findings and beads sites:

http://www.wolfemyrow.com/home.html

http://www.coolmini.com/finds/findings.htm

http://www.johnbead.com/

http://enterpriseart.com/index.php?logo=Enterprise%20Art&page=main.php

http://www.shipwreck-beads.com/

Marlene Chapman-Ontario

PaperClay: I'm sure Rik will jump in here - but let me clarify my own earlier comments about re-wetting the PaperClay. It doesn't really work to "re-wet" the PaperClay if it is stone dry. But while you are working with the medium and it starts to dry it can be re-wetted. A damp cloth can be placed over a work-in-progress to slow drying while taking a short break for lunch, etc. If something has gone completely dry and you don't like it - either cut it out with a knife (it slices right up!) or sand it off (kinda fun!) or apply a thin layer of glue and put a new layer of rolled out PaperClay on top and go to work!

No, you can't bake it to set it like clay. But once it is dry it will maintain its shape unless put to great stress (like soaking it in your bathtub). You *can* however, use an oven to speed drying - there are directions on the web site about that www.creativepaperclay.com. You can also spray a light coat of sealer if you think there are any issues. I have not sealed my cottage PaperClay, and I'm fairly positive I could "splash" water on my current cottage and have minimal damage i anything. I'd just blot it dry and I doubt I'd see anything once it dried. I wouldn't however, advise submerging it in a tub of water, though!

The PaperClay is basically (for a lack of a better description) "shredded paper" that is extremely fine. It's wetpacked so it can be molded into many shapes. It can take a lot of textures and surfaces. For the "melting" issues, if you think about how a fully dry brown paper bag reacts to water being sprinkled, poured, or soaked (holds shape when slightly damp, but starts to pull apart if soaked for a long time) you get more in the ballpark.

Best thing to do it buy a small package of PaperClay, construct a little sidewalk of stones or a partial chimney over a piece of foam core. Let it dry. Play with it. See how it holds up to abuse.

Laura Isabella

FIMO cooking times: Polymer clay is a combination of chemicals, they are activated by heat and combine to form the clay in it's baked state. You MUST cook it for a minimum of 20 minutes or the chemical process will not complete, as polymer clay is 'live' until cooked not completing the cooking correctly is potentially dangerous. The temperature of your oven is important, never bake at higher than 130c it will not cook quicker!! this is not cake mixture here it's as near to rocket science that we mini makers get!!! If you're using a pale clay try lowering the temp. just a teeny weenie bit, no lower than 120c.If your stuff is scorching try using a shield of baking foil, cover the delicate pieces with loosely wrapped foil, the foil will diffuse the heat so baking times must be observed. Your average oven takes at least 10mins to reach the set temp. you need at least 15mins cooking time after that, 20mins is the barest limit. Not cooking your clay minis properly can result in them crumbling and falling apart later on, please remember the manufacturer has to conduct rigorous tests on the product before it goes on sale, he/she does know what they're talking about. As a final note, I use polymer clay every day and I have only had one scorching mishap, using my cooker oven and switching the temp just a bit too high. I now use a toaster oven with the temp set at 130c and I bake everything for 30 min.

Jacquie Hall

Future Floor Wax for Fimo: Yes, Future Wax works beautifully for getting a shiny coat on Fimo items. I learned this from Judy Kafka, renown for her Fimo Candy Castles and trains. No stickiness whatsoever. Future is made by Johnson Wax Co. of Racine, Wisconsin and is still available as far as I know. I've used it on my no-wax floors, too, to enhance them.

Jeanette in Wisconsin

Punches/Paper: This is a web site for scrapbook supplies, including many punches.
http://www.scrapbooksuperstore.com/

Peggy, in WA

English doll kits: Someone asked the other day for an English doll kit maker. My favorite is Sue Harrington, unfortunately I can't find a web site or address for her perhaps someone out there knows if she can be contacted on the internet?

Her snail mail is: Sue Harrington, 51 Old Fort Road, Shoreham Beach, Shoreham by Sea, West Sussex BN43 5RL Tel 01273 464670. She has a catalogue and her dolls are lovely.

Col

Sue Harrington's Dolls: Sue Harrington's doll site is at www.katysuedolls.com

Christine