Mini quilting: Dover publications- http://www.doverpublications.com has a book by Janet Wickell called 'Easy to Make Dollhouse Quilts'. It includes quilting basics as well as a number of patterns. Mine was $3.95.

Martha Simpson

Mini quilting: Try going to http://www.geocities.com/miniaturequilters/index.html This is the home page for a group who have a list on yahoo, they have archives and links to get you started.

Jacquie Hall

Mini quilting: there is a magazine called "Miniature Quilts" or "Miniature Quilting." Not all of the patterns are as small as dollhouse size, but some are. They offer a range of levels of expertise.   I've bought it in Joann's Fabrics, but they also have a website. http://www.quilttownusa.com/Chitra/mq.htm

Rosemary in Cleveland

Mini quilting: I use the book Easy to Make Dollhouse Quilts by Janet Wickell ISBN 0-486-40291-6 published by Dover. The book contains full instructions for foundation piecing, which basically means sewing tiny bits of fabric face down to a foundation (usually stitch and tear Vilene). Once sewn down, you fold them back to reveal the right side, then sew another bit face down on top of that, fold the second piece over, sew the third face down, fold it back, etc. Recently I have tried doing this on the machine - I found it easier to do the whole thing by hand - but that's just me. Makes a good project for in front of the TV.

I would offer two bits of warning - always use bigger bits than you really need, it makes them easier to handle -AND- either pin or tack down the bit you are going to sew. This slight interruption in the sewing process means you will really focus on what you are doing, and you will make far fewer mistakes. And if you knew the world of pain and agony behind that 'fewer mistakes' comment. It took me a while to grasp the principle of foundation piecing – hopefully you'll grab it faster. But once you get the idea, you'll be away.

There is also a magazine, bi- monthly, named 'Miniature Quilts' published by Kalmbach. These are not intended for dollhouses but can be shrunk down on a scanner and used for minis - great magazine, bursting with ideas. Enjoy!

Helen from York, England

Mini-quilt seams laying flat: I'm a maxi and a mini quilter too! The secret is--tada--a 99 cent can of Niagara Spray Starch! I kid you not. Lightly spray the wrong side of your quilt top, and press with a hot iron. Don't rub the iron from side to side, but lift and press. This helps avoid distortion. You might think starch would leave it stiff, but it doesn't. It flattens and evens out the tiny blocks. You might want to trim seams if they are too bulky, but be careful there. good luck!

Julie

Fairy Ponds: Today my 7 y/old daughter and I made our fairy ponds ala Ladybug. I used the Sculptamold (from A. C. Moore) on top of a throw away plastic lid--like a large one from a tub of margarine. shaped it roundish will little hills and a pond in the middle. We each painted our own and I helped her with the fairy dust and 'water' which is a type of sealant. I'm taking a break, she is still working on hers making a mini bridge from broken toothpicks. She also drew a tiny fairy on paper and we used pieces of driftwood from our trip to the shore. I think we still might add the butterflies--have to find the right thing to mount them on.

Kathy B. in PA

Dragons for a Dollhouse: Felicity Price has some excellent dragon needlepoint designs in her book "Needlepoint 1/12 Scale". She has coordinated rugs, pictures, cushions, etc, all with dragons. Not all the designs in the book are dragons. It is an excellent book for anyone who likes miniature needlepoint, as it has many different design schemes/themes, such as teddy bears, nautical, Chinese, flowers, etc., and each has several coordinated items to carry out the theme.

As for other dragons for your house, I would try Chinese gift shops, or even museum-type shops, where you might find a really small one made of jade. Or, look for earrings or charm bracelet charms that are dragons. Do a search for "dragon" on all of ebay, and who knows what you might find.

Jonathan in Israel

Mini dragon: I searched through my old Dolls in Miniature magazines. and found the name of the lady who did my darling baby dragon - she also sculpted and dressed dolls and other animals, like bunnies. This address is from 1995, so good luck:
Marianne Noller
PO Box 489
Nipomo, CA 93444

Paulette in IN

Flower Instructions: Some of you have asked for tips on making flowers. Here is a start - I'll post more in the next few days. First, whatever paper you use - typing, tracing, tissue, etc. - I prefer to paint the petals before shaping - wet paper has a tendency to return to it's original flat state. Next, you will need either a ball stylus or a round toothpick to shape/cup the petals. The point on the toothpick needs to be sanded off to a nice smooth rounded end. This will keep the paper from tearing. Some people prefer to use a pad of several paper towels to lay the petals on for shaping - you can also use a mouse pad. I prefer to use the palm of my hand or the pad of my fingertip. One thing that will help you is to have a nursery catalog or gardening book/magazine so you can examine the flower's petal shape. You will also be able to see the colors/varieties of each flower.

Most of the time I use wire with a little "pip" on the end - I cut the wire into 1-1/2" to 2" pieces and dip the very tip (maybe 1/16") into a mixture of yellow paint and glue. Depending on the flower you are making, you might need to redip after dry to get a bigger pip. If you are making flowers that have "fluffy" looking centers, you can use finely ground foam or sand in the appropriate color. Try a few of each and see which ones you like.

Today, I will start with Irises - you can use a teardrop-shaped punch or 'some' heart-shaped punches - does the heart shape look like it can be cut down the center to make 2 nice teardrop shapes? Take each teardrop and start pressing with the stylus or toothpick in the center of the fat part to make it cup nicely - practice with a few - sometimes it works better to press gently just inside the edges first. The kind of drag the tool toward the pointed end of the teardrop to make it curl a little. Does it look like an iris petal yet? If so, move on to make 5 more. Once you have 6 petals, dip the pointed end in tacky glue and then just the tiniest touch of super glue. Attach to the end of the prepared stem with the "fat" part up. Repeat with 2 more petals, spacing evenly around the stem. Now attach the other 3 petals in between the "up" petals, only point the "fat" part down. After this dries, you can add color to the edges with a marker or with paint (lightly now). You can also add the "beards" (the fuzzy part at the base of the "dangly" petals) by touching on a little glue and then dipping in finely ground foam in appropriate color (most iris have yellow beards but there are some with white, orange, etc. - check your catalog/book). Leaves are kind of a light to medium green and are shaped much like a sword blade - long, skinny, tapering to a point.

Sonia

Brass Stair Rods: I've been meaning to add the directions for making the rods to my web site. I do give out printed instructions along with any stair runners I sell. For the rods, I recommend using 1/16" K&S brass rod, available at some hardware stores, many art supply stores and most model train/hobby supply stores, for about 30¢ for a 12" piece. Cut the rod to a length about 1/4" longer than the width of your stair runner. Then buy a spool of 28 ga. brass wire, about a dollar (US). When you unhook the wire from the spool, it will uncoil itself for a dozen turns or so. Gently pull those up above the spool, and holding the loops together, cut at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, this will give you 24 or so lengths of wire cut to about 1-1/2". Use one of your brass rods to form the screw eyes to hold the rods in place. Fold the cut wire into a U, then cross the arms of the U snugly around the rod and hold the cut ends in one hand, while turning the rod with the other. After you've twisted 1/2" beyond the rod, trim off the V of the two ends, and you have a nice little screw eye.

You'll need to drill a small hole in the stair tread, right alongside the edge of your runner, near the riser, on each side. The screw eye will actually "screw" down into the hole if you've got the right drill bit, or a drop of super glue holds the screw eye in place, with just the eye sitting above the stair tread. Make a casing at the top end of your runner (sew or glue under about a 1/4" with Designer Tacky so it doesn't bleed through). Slide a brass rod into the casing, then into the screw eyes on the top step. Work your way down the staircase, putting the rods on top of the runner, then through the eyes. At the bottom, it's your call as to whether the runner ends at the floor, or just under the bottom tread's lip (real houses have either). Mark where the bottom casing should be, then trim to the proper length, make a casing and slide the last rod in. Note that you'll need one more rod than you have stair steps.

I've found that in miniature it's not really necessary to put the end caps on the rods. At that scale, it's neat enough to have the rods, no one seems to miss the fancy ends. To make fabric fuzzy or napped, you can also use sandpaper. Glue 120 grit sandpaper to a wood block (a small 2" square chunk will do), then use it to 'rough up' whatever fabric you find for your runner. (I put it on my thigh to sand, dangerous in shorts weather!) If you can't find a ribbon you like, iron on the thinnest iron-on interfacing you can find (it comes in black, too, for dark colored runners) to a piece of uncut corduroy or other fabric and then trim to the width you want. The interfacing will control raveling on the edges. If you can, cut the runner with a rotary cutter, (a quilter's tool, like a pizza cutter) to get the edges perfectly straight. Sandpaper is how I get the Hudson Bay blankets to look like wool, even though they're rayon (don't tell!) http://weevings.com/Hudson_Bay_white.jpg

Bonni in NH