Rubber molds: Ironically I am including inst. for making rubber molds in my Jan. DM project ( yes, I am working on now Jan. now). I also use the dip method. To answer Viola's questions from my experience ...(do keep in mind that I am reproducing very small items)...I use sticky wax to attach the base of the item to be reproduced to a small square of 1/2" foamcore. Then I can hold on to the foamcore when dipping. This also allows me to poke a toothpick or skewer into the foamcore base and "hang" the drying mold by poking the other end of the pick or skewer into a block of Styrofoam. I hang subsequent dippings up and down as the rubber does tend to sag a bit with the thickness obtained by dipping. Right after dipping I use a toothpick to smooth and join the rubber that is on the bottom of the mold and on the base, thus forming a lip on the base. When the desired thickness is obtained the rubber will peel from the foamcore leaving a pour hole once the positive has been removed. I have found that once the mold is peeled from the base it is wise to let it sit for another day to let the air get to the underside. Rubber mold making is not something that is done in a day....it is easy but there is a lot of down time. But it is fun, relatively inexpensive, will add another notch to your craft know-how and great when you need a bunch of little like-items. As when working with any new material do read the label carefully and follow the precautions and suggestions listed. Joann Swanson |
Rubber mold: I believe this is how she did it. I never saw it done. She bought some rubber-mold stuff and painted it on the model. I suspect that the model had to be painted with some kind of mold release, but the mold package should tell you how to do it.... (First, she secured the model down to a board that's just slightly bigger than the model, so it would not fall over.) That end of the model would provide a "pour hole" and she'd pour the sculpey into that hole. So it's wise to take some time to decide where you want that hole to be. For example: The pour hole (or the portion to be glued to a board), needs to be the biggest part of the model because the remainder of the model will have to be able to be pulled through that hole, when you remove it. Rubber does stretch to help get larger pieces through smaller holes, but there is a limit to the amount it will stretch. Then she continued to give the model more and more coats of rubber paint until the rubber paint was about 1/8" thick (?)... something like that. I believe she had to dry between coats, but the instructions would tell you what to do. When dry, she opened it up and peeled rubber down and pulled out the model. If there were deep "under cuts" the rubber would tear or have to be cut so the model could come out. That's ok. It will still work but wherever the mold tore, there will be a small seam that will need to be sanded away later on. I never saw her do this so I'm working on memories of what she told me and what I assume has to be done... be sure to follow directions that come with the package. The rubber mold would have to be removed from the board. When that is done you will see that it left an opening so you can see inside of the mold. That will be the "pour hole" You now have to find some way to make that floppy rubber mold stand up while you pour the sculpey into it. I would want to make a plaster mold to hold it. Here's how I would do it: Get a milk carton and cut it down to about 2" taller than your mold, and pour about 1/2" plaster into it. Let it set a bit (not hard, but enough so rubber mold will not sink to the bottom when you put it on top of the plaster). Then put the rubber mold (with model still inside it) into the plaster (board-side "up"). If possible push the rubber mold slightly into the plaster to help hold it in place. Then pour plaster to half-way up the rubber mold. Dry overnight. Leave in the milk carton. Paint the exposed part of the plaster with liquid dishwashing detergent. Then pour more plaster to just up to (but not covering) the board. Let dry at least overnight. Now take it all out of the milk carton. Separate the two parts of the plaster mold, remove the rubber mold, and pull out the model. When you wish to cast the sculpey, place the rubber mold (without the model, you'll not need the model again) inside the bottom plaster mold, with the pour hole up. Then set the top plaster mold on top of that. Rubber band the pieces together. Pour the sculpey. Let sit a few minutes (or follow instructions on the sculpey package). Then remove rubber mold and bake only rubber mold/sculpey in oven. Set plaster aside to use next time. I am still concerned about one thing: How do you keep the rubber mold upright in the oven? The board has been removed to provide the pour hole. You may have to sink the rubber mold into a slab of regular sculpey... and bake them together. If that works, then you could save that slab of sculpey and use it every time you want to bake the rubber mold/sculpey combination. So make it a good sturdy support; it may have to be thick enough to go 1/4 of the way up the rubber mold. And to easily determine just HOW/WHERE that rubber mold should sit inside the support, use a felt pen and draw a line from the rubber mold down over the support. Then next time you use it, you can just match up the lines that will appear on the rubber mold and the support piece. Just a reminder: I have NOT seen this done... I think my idea would work. But I've never done it, other than in my mind. If you can get better advice, please use that. But if not, I think you could give my idea a try and would probably learn how to do it using that as a beginning idea. Viola |
Mold Material: To all who inquired; I have seen a few posts to SS asking what can be used to make molds from an original. I have used liquid latex which is natural liquid rubber or use the man made neoprene. Both work the same way "Dip and dry". DrBob |
Mold Material: I use the two compound type rubber molding material. I find this may be messier, but is much more reliable in creating the mold. I also use the method (two piece mold for the many undercut item, one piece for simple objects, laying object in a form, surround with clay for making the pour hole and perimeter of mold, etc steps) taught to me by a porcelain mold artist. I find this method minimizes bubbles, strengthens mold for many uses and allows casting in different types of materials from low temp metals such as pewter to polyresin compatible with the rubber. (Not all polyresins are compatible with all rubber materials). I hope this helps those questioning the rubber mold making process. Rhonda in Fl |
Printable site: I was browsing through the net and came across this French site that has some nice printable items. In case the URL doesn't work...I will also say, I went to Altavista, scrolled to the bottom where they list countries and clicked on France...which brings up a French search site..then I typed in "Dollhouses" and up came [I think??] about 12 sites and one mentioned something that resembled 'printables' so I went there and this was the result...hope you can find it... and a later page for the same site; I find if I go to different country sites and type in either doll houses or miniatures/dollhouses, etc...if they have anything they will tell you...There are some nice Dutch sites, one has a lot of good printables...If you are interested I will locate and post that one too... You may not be able to read the instructions etc. so you may have to just click onto everything they list...but if there is anything there , like printable items...you will find it...and in the meantime, you get to look through some nice miniature displays... The Dutch site has both English and Dutch so it is easy for us who read no Dutch... Pat Jones in Nova Scotia |
more sites to investigate...I am glad that some of you went and looked at the site I posted yesterday...re: French printables...and found them as good as I suggested...as for the Dutch site...I will give two URLS, one is a list of many Dutch sites on miniatures, [and some from all over the world too]...on the right hand side of the list if you scroll down, and down...you will find "printable minis" listed..or a similar phrase, in English so you can find some good sites on there...but I could never find Petra's through that site and she has a great site so I will give her Url second also... http://poppenhuizen.pagina.nl That is for the list...this is for Petra"s You will find on Petra's site at the top right hand corner a British flag...click there for the English version of the site.... Pat Jones in Nova Scotia |
Skeletons: Jim's printables has wonderful printable skeletons in three sizes. They're a bit slow to cut out, but look great when done. http://www.printmini.com/printables/holiday/hwskel.shtml Lee Menconi-Steiger |
Ballet printies: Thanks to hints from this incredible group AND the special service of Sheila from Boopmini we have found the Ballet printies !!!Hurray!!! Enjoy them too http://www.geocities.com/boopsbettie/dance.html Atie from Holland! |
my new site: I have just got my new site up.. the address is It's printables.. there isn't a huge number as yet but there are more on the way! Jess |
Using Printed Brick: I covered a seamstress shop with printed brick from my inkjet printer. I sprayed the printed side with an acrylic matte sealer (lightly) then I sprayed the back side also. I put a couple of coats on each side, then I sprayed the back side with an adhesive spray and use that to adhere it to the outside walls. Worked wonderfully. Debby |
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