Light Brite pegs: I had so much fun with them in the Soap Shop I did years ago after being inspired by Joann Swanson's wonderful projects, when she mentioned how to use them in Nutshell News. My Soap Shop is on this page at my site. http://members.home.net/jday1/soapshop.htm

I used them for the bottles of shampoo and fragrances by cutting the bottoms off and adding a bead for the top and painting on a logo. I used the older pegs because they are longer and are beautiful colors.

After I made the Soap Shop I started turning them on the lathe and have had so much fun with them ever since. I used to sell perfume and apothecary bottles that I turned on the lathe. I also made miniature molds from the turnings then poured them with porcelain. Some of my micro turnings from Light Brite Pegs can be seen in in my Micro Chocolaterie, they are the candy jars and other jars.

http://members.home.net/jday1/Chocolaterieshop.htm

I think you will really enjoy working with them. They are great for jam jars too and I have turned wine bottles with them as well.

Jean Day

Gloomy scene: Restricting everything in the scene, weather it be a tree or park bench, to tones of gray, sepia, and black will give your scene a very gloomy look.

Marilyn, Mini-ing in RV

Making rubber molds: I can only relate as to how I made them.

Make your original object. From plaster; Fimo; wood etc. I applied a coat of talcum powder to the plaster of Paris models I made. Then I would dip the original item into either liquid latex (the natural latex**rubber**) or the synthetic (neoprene). Wait for each coat to dry before dipping it in again.

Wear old clothes because if this latex/neoprene gets onto a garment and is not removed while in its liquid state it hardens as "rubber" into the material weave. Make sure all the bubbles are broken as you remove the original from each dipping. Dip about 6 times at least. If it is a large mold that will hold a lot of material during reproduction make more dippings. This will make a thicker wall for the mold. When you have achieved the thickness of the walls for the mold that you desire. just peel it off the original like peeling off a rubber glove. Any bubbles that were not broken will leave tiny craters in the mold and this will result in little "nipples" in the reproduction. so they must be sanded off the reproduction or the bubble holes filled in prior to pouring the reproduction.

The process is very simple but like anything that appears simple, I was doing it for about 40 years so it was "simple" when I got good at it in the 39th year. ;~)

DrBob

Vegas Wedding Chapel: Here's a link to the Wedding Chapel we used:
http://www.heritagechapel.com/

However, if you type in the keywords "Vegas Wedding Chapels", you'll get TONS!

Dollladie

Christmas Idea - the plans for a 1" scale beaded Santa Head ornament for your tree and we can help you with anything you need for Christmas. http://www.minitrees.com

BEADED SANTA HEAD Supplies needed Gold 34 gauge wire Tiny glass beads - white/blue/pink/red Pointed Tweezers A pad of post-it notes to place your beads on so they will stick to the adhesive and not roll around - - Place 3 white beads in the center of a 12 inch length of wire. - - Take one end and bring it up over the top of the beads and through them from opposite side. - - pick up a row of 4 white beads - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 6 white beads - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 7 white beads - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 3 pink 1 red and 3 pink - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 2 white, 1 blue, 1 white, 1 blue and 2 white beads - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 6 white beads - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 5 red beads - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 4 red beads - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 3 red beads - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 2 red beads - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 2 white beads - - run opposite wire through row - - pick up a row of 1 white beads - - run opposite wire through row Twist wires together and form a small loop Twist wires together and tie off.

Jean Lierman

Battery Operated Lights: I have done several projects with battery operated lights. I usually get my hubby involved, but I have done some myself now. Here is how it works. First thing you need to know and applies to all electricity, is the voltage of the bulb versus the source. The battery can be less, but never more as it will blow the light. Multiple lights usually require multiple batteries. I highly recommend soldering the wires together whenever possible. It eliminates the possibility of coming apart. There are some sources of pre-made battery holders that can be found at places like Radio Shack. This includes the 9 Volt tab top. This would power a single 12 volt light, but it would not burn brightly (then the bulb lasts longer too).

If you want to go small such as the watch battery size. Then you will need to create a housing, cardboard is OK. Watch batteries have a positive and negative side, one wire to the light goes to one and the other to the other. (Yes, it is really that simple.) You just have to figure out how to keep it that way. Tape, such as a medical cloth tape is good for wire to battery. When designing your battery housing also keep in mind, that it such be out of site, but easy to access to replace them. If you can't accomplish this you may want to just plug it in instead.

To add a switch is the best way to turn on for limited amounts of time. This could be added in by cutting into one light wire at some point. Then create a "jumper" from the switch to the battery. If you cut into a wire from the light, then use the cut off portion for the "jumper". Otherwise you would need to add another wire for a "jumper". Radio Shack carries some very small switches that would even work for 1/144th scale, if mounted to a base. These are push button and some you have to push and hold on to be on. This is what I'd recommend for a small project. The actual mounting of this button is up to you. Once you see one you will understand this part. There are many other switches available at Radio Shack. I have purchased several different kinds. I use them in both battery operated and regular, as I like to leave the power source plugged in to the socket, but turn off the lights.

I created a mini pin once using battery power. It was using a matchbox and the on/off switch was the sliding in/out of the box. We used a metal tape as the switch in the case. This metal tape can be soldered to. It is also a good way to connect to the battery also. This pin was a great idea, which works best for viewing in a dim or no light room. Oh well, it was fun anyway.

Also don't think a miniature store (on or off line) is your only source of mini lighting. I highly recommend that you support the mini industry, however, I have not always found what I need and Radio Shack had it. (I'm sure there are other stores like them, I just can't think of any that most people will recognize.) I don't recommend batteries for a big project like a house, too many lights, I'd hard wire instead. The battery option is great for a simple vignette, such as in a bag, or other container.

Preble in GA

Books: If you want the kind of shelves that a real reader ends up with after years of buying a book here and a book there, all of them read and well loved, foam core will work better than balsa. Measure and scale your real books and make the faux books one at a time so that even the ones that are similar in size or color will still come out slightly different. Choose a size, a cover material and a page edge color. Cut the foam core shape with a very sharp Exacto blade. Press the metal edge of a ruler down hard very close to the edge on both sides of the "book" where the binding bends in on a real book. Color the cardboard edges to match the cover paper; this makes the finished book look like it has a thick binding, not a piece of thin paper glued to cardboard. Gild or color the "edges of the pages" -- i.e., the foam -- as desired. I've used gel pens, watercolor pencil (slightly dampen the edges first and the color spreads beautifully), and regular #2 lead, all with good results. Stroking the edges of the foam a few times on all three sides with the tip of a sharp pencil makes it look like real paper. Cut the cover material to fit top to bottom as closely as possible, just a HAIR bigger than the cardboard. Leave the wrap-around length bigger than you need to start with. Spread a thin, even layer of glue on ONE side of the book and, while the glue is wet, press the ruler back into the ridge. When the glue is set, spread a thin, even layer of glue on the other side, NOT on the edge, and wrap the cover around. The spines on real books are not stuck down. Barbara Brear recommends putting something in there, like a toothpick, to hold it while you're gluing, but I'm too much of a klutz apparently. Everything I put in ended up sliding out and bouncing around on to the floor, so I went with just eyeballing the bulge and it seems to work for me. Press the ruler into the ridge on the second side. While the glue is drying, I sometimes lay the ruler flat on the book and press down. This gives me some thinner and some thicker books, even though I'm using the same size foam core for them all. After it's all dry, trim the edges, again just a HAIR bigger than the cardboard.

For a well read book, "age" the finished binding with some creative swipes with an emery board where a real book would be worn. I'm not doing much for titles, because the foam core faux books are only going into dark corners as library filler. I have mostly just done some little dots on the bindings in the right places with a very fine tipped marker. I find these books a wonderful way to pass time while I wait for web sites to load so I can shop mini sites. As I finish them, I glue them on to the shelves, put some across the tops of other books or maybe falling a bit sideways, whatever looks right to me at the time, so the library is growing in a kind of realistic, organic way, as a real onewould and it's turning out SO well!

Chrissy

Books: Here's how I make books, I use real books (from the used book sales at the library or garage sales. I take the cover off and then lay it flat on a cutting board and cut with a utility knife a strip (1/2-5/8 inch) the length of the book. Then I place this strip in my miter box and cut off pieces 3/4-7/8 inches - purposely varying them slightly unless they will be a several volume set. I do the same with several different color covers and end up with a variety of books. By the way, the covered edge of the original book becomes the spine of the mini book. Some are more worn, some more colorful. I especially like Reader's Digest Condensed books for colorful covers. Some of the older books have textures and are fabric. If the cover is going to show- like at the end of a book on a shelf I put a book picture from a catalog on it. I have also used white out to make the edge white but was not particularly happy with that. The gray cardboard edge was okay for me. If you would like a sample or a few books send me your snail mail address and I'll send some. Once I get cutting and find new colors I have a hey-day! Use the left over book insides- if you can't bear to throw them way - as a weight for glued objects or if you are gluing small paper items you use a page in the book to glue on, then when it is sticky turn the page to a clean one. I might add that I have also cut the strips on my scroll saw, but the results were a little more ragged.

Dick T.

Picture Frame - Using a miter box and razor saw, you also need a small piece of wood for a "stop" and a small clamp. You need a miter box that has a 45 degree this way \ and / that way. Make a 45 degree cut at this / slot. Measure one side of your picture and add TWICE the width of the framing material that will fit flat on the wall (not the indented portion that holds the picture). Place the stop on the miter box at the measurement you've determined away from \ slot and make the other cut. Do not remove the stop. Make another 45 degree cut on the end of your wood and place it against the stop. You will have two matching pieces. Hold them against each other to check. I always cut the longer sides first. If you make a mistake, they can become the shorter sides. Use a wooden miter box if possible, a metal one will destroy the teeth on your saw blade. If you can't find them locally, I have them available.

Ruth

Mini Paintings: I paint on panels of 1/32 airplane plywood from art or hobby stores cut to 1/12th of the size of the original painting which is being reproduced in mini. I give each panel 3 or more coats of a good quality gesso, alternating in vertical and horizontal directions and sanding in-between coats. I also smear a little water on the back while gessoing, so that warping is minimal. The reason I choose this dimension is standard framing has a 1/32" deep by 1/16" wide groove to fit around the panel. This way the back will be flat. I have seen paintings done on stretched canvas and I think they have too much texture. What ever texture the painting has should be limited to the paint itself and that kept small. It works for me, and should last forever.

Framing is tricky. I still mis-measure and I've done more than 60 of them. The stock comes from Hobby Builders Supply or similar. None of my stores stock it. Hardwood is harder to find. I got some ebony at the Guild show in 2000 and I have gotten cherry and mahogany at the Dollhouse Factory which is, alas, closing. Measure carefully, hold the stock firmly against the miter box. Don't let it roll. The cherry stock has a rounded outer edge and I had a lot of trouble with it but it is worth it when finished. It looks great. Always use wood glue (Elmer's yellow). You can put a drop or two of water on a corner and take it apart and do it again when it doesn't come out right. When framed I sign the panel with my name and date and the name and date of the original painter. I use acid-free paper on the back and sign again, everything with a touch of wood glue so it can disassemble. I hope some of this helps.

Marilyn Crockett