Thatch: I'm walking thru JoAnn's Fabric and Crafts a couple of weeks ago and on display was a bolt of white fake fur -- very hairy with fibers 1 to 3 inches long. I stood there and stroked the fibers down and sawthatch! Sure enough, when heavily painted with yellow and brown streaks and then combed with a fine tooth comb and left to dry -- it looks like perfectly scaled straw. After the paint dried, I cut out the roof shapes, glued them into place, snipped, trimmed and it just looks fabulous, darling. This was so easy and looks so great, I felt I had to share.

Sally Cook Thomas

Acrylic Paint: Acrylic paint dries to a plastic-like material, you can dry it on purpose on high quality plastic wrap and peel it off in sheets for a newmaterial. To keep it in the liquid state use the wet palette method described by someone earlier or use the real thing, however don't expect too long a life span, mildew happens fast in FL. Work with tiny amounts at a time, you may want to use an extender to make it more fluid in a dry climate (I can't imagine a dry climate). If you do accidentally get some on clothing or whatever, alcohol takes it off in a sec. that means if you ;goofthe thing you are painting you can remove it while wet. Good ole soap and water takes it off if done immediatelyAnother acrylic paint tip, shake the bottle well, but don't strike against the heel of your hand, can lead to carpal tunnel. The little strips of paint pots are good for working small amounts at a time, either wash out when finished or peel out the paint when it dries out. One more ... very important, you have to let the application dry before painting over, or next to, a freshly painted area. Paint in a nice thin coat, several thin layers is MUCH better than one gloppy one! Wow, kinda got carried away, I guess you can tell what I do the most of.

Nancy in Tampa

American Girl/size of mini dolls....they are definitely not 1scale...finally measured and they're 6, but still wonderful...and just got the new catalogue, they've added Kit, the newest doll to the miniature series, so I'll be sending away....was thinking of how they could be used if one were truly energetic....how about in a shadow box frame, surrounded by 1miniature pieces of furniture, clothing, accessories, etc of the era they represent...good way to show case artisans and/or use pieces you don't otherwise have room for, plus gives you on a whole new mission at your local shop or next show!!!! Not that we've ever needed an excuse to spend money when it comes to our habit .

Molly

Hemming Punch Needle Rugs: I like Liquid Fusible Web by Aleene's. I paint it on the excess border, out about 1/4" and up onto the rug itself for nearly a 1/4" too. (this stuff looks like tacky glue, thick white, then clear when it dries) When the LFW is dried, I trim the excess fabric to a scant 1/4" and if it's an oval rug like yours, nip out V's around the curves. It's still got a bit of 'tack' to it for an hour or so, which helps when ironing it down. If I time it right, I can finger press the hem to the back, then iron it to bond it keeping my fingers at a safe distance from the iron. For a square cornered rug, I just trim across the corner so there's no overlap when the hem is turned. I've taught a number of half day classes in punch needle, that's where most of the punch needle rug kits on my web site http://weevings.com came from. I've also got Purrfect Punch needles and lots of yarn colors.

Bonni in NH

Draping Clothing: The clothing with arms were sticking out at unnatural angles. As I wanted it to look like the pieces were hanging in a real house, as opposed to a play house, I inconspicuously tacked the arms down to the sides with a bit of white sewing thread, tied in a knot. I made it so it was reversible, if I don't like it I can just snip the tack away. If you want to get frisky, you can also do as I do and iron wrinkles in (somewhere, the inventor of the iron is spinning in his grave, imagine,making wrinkles on purpose. My housecoat and little knitted sweater look rather nice now that they aren't simultaneously pointing east and west.

Kim From Canada

Costumes: I've just found a fantastic costume site! It has links to patterns for period costume which are easily adaptable to 1/12th scale, and it has some lovely illustrations. I've just spent an hour there, and I'm not done yet! It has every kind of costume, from medieval to twentieth century, so all you dollmakers, go and enjoy! http://www.costumegallery.com/

Lynne Connolly

Tablecloths: I've long been frustrated at how to get a dh tablecloth to hang properly without having to virtually glue it in place. Looking through some old linens last week I came across one of those little old round net-crochet pieces w/glass beads sewn around the edge to hold them on the lemonade pitcher or whatever to keep flies out. I put it on a dh table lamp; it draped like a dream. I've been sewing glass beads onto dh linens all week! It works on both round lamp; rectangular things; the numberand size of beads depends on the weight of the fabric. Start w/one at each corner ( or a NSEW on round things) and add beads til it's right. You can let them show--they look adorable, like ball fringe--or hide them on the underside of the hem. It takes a while, but now they're removable, washable, and have a soft natural look and not a stiff, sculpted one.

Hilda

Tablecloths: I tried to be the customer from hell at the IGMA show last weekend and insist that Bonni of Weevings give me the perfectly laying cloth that she had as a sample. She stood her ground and instead of giving me her sample she showed me how to do it (something about giving someone a fishing pole instead of a fish). Wet the cloth, drape it over the table, use hair clips to clip the ends the way you'd like them to look and leave the clips on until the cloth dries. I didn't have the clips and used the small black paper binding clips instead and the cloth looks great.

Carol

Tablecloths: It's true, Carol wanted the 'draped' tablecloth from the display, and I cruelly refused to let her get off so easy. I even had one clip on hand to demonstrate how to get the dampened cloth to conform to the table, and wouldn't you know, she wanted a set of those, too! (and you know she wanted them free, besides..<g>) It's a good thing she's a much, much nicer person when she's behind a table at a show than she is on the other side, as a customer! This reminded me of a tip that got posted some time ago, but could be helpful to mention again. One of the quilt makers was adding thin wire floral wire is good) to the quilt border, either inside the sashing, or just basted under the inside edge. This enables the quilt to be realistically draped on the bed, without gluing. Gluing down any woven item just to get it to drape just gives me the willies - that's why I started weaving miniatures in the first place, too many photos of textiles in dollhouses splayed out like canvas drop cloths! I thought the bead idea was great, (I just don't see Carol sewing beads on, either, frankly) that's the secret to how they get expensive,real drapes to hang nicely, there are lead weights sewn into the bottom hems.

Bonni in NH

Transfer decals: Making a Decal from a magazine picture: this is something I have done and yes.. using Liquitex acrylic gel stuff. (can't find tube at the moment to be more precise) I gave it about 4 coats.. maybe 5 or 6 even. It gets cloudy after a few B4 the latest layer dries. since I was making an "oil-painting" each coat was brushed on in an opposite direction to end up looking like canvas. When all dry, soaked it in water.. (it will cloud again but will dry clear.) When fully soaked, CAREFULLY turn over to wrong side and GENTLY rub off the paper back leaving only the picture itself.. then block w/ a book to dry flat. Glue onto chip board and frame. I tried decals for putting on dishes too. hope this helps. I don't think you need to go off trying to find the "official" stuff for transferring, but I think they sell it in hobby shops.. i.e.: train and track car shops) I'm also searching beauty supply shops for appropriate nail decals to decorate plates with.

Julie