Extra Transformer: It is not safe to run two transformers in parallel. The current into the lamps may be shared but even with a pair of "identical" transformers there will be slight variations. Hence, one transformer will supply more current than the other. This could lead to overloading this transformer which would get very hot. In the limit, if the transformers were not matched at all, one would not only supply all the current to the lamps but could drive current into the second transformer. This would get even hotter and if it didn't blow a fuse could begin to smoke with eventual disaster. If your lamp load exceeds the maximum your transformer can supply, use a second transformer in a separate supply line.

Neil Helsby

Battery Operated Lights: You were looking for a specific kind of battery light. We carry really wonderful battery operated lights (both in clear and colored). They use 2 AA batteries. There are 10 lights on a 20 inch strand BUT there is a lead wire to the 1st light that is about 3 inches long. You can cut off the other nine lights and just use one light. This may seem wasteful but the lights are very inexpensive. I'm sure with your creative mind you could even come up with projects to do out of the lights you cut off. jeanl@instanet.com www.minitrees.com

Jean Lierman

Cloudy Resin: the reason for the cloudy look of your pond could be that the resin was not mixed well. I've noticed in mixing resin that it becomes kind of cloudy about half way through the mixing process. Another reason could be that the sealer you used (if any) was not completely cured before you poured the resin into the pond......yes, I know these things from experience.....I've had it happen, too.

Sloan

1/4 scale dolls: I have not attempted something this small, but here's my suggestions:
1) try a different medium - I don't know which is which, but I know that Fimo, Sculpey, Sculpey III, paperclay, etc. each have a different consistency and pliability. Maybe one that is less pliable would work better.
2) make the body out of wire, not sculpting medium. This way you're not continuing to handle the head once it's formed. Take a piece of wire and hold it vertically; from the top (neck) come down as far as the torso length will be and bend the wire slightly at that point - then go down as far as the leg will be (including foot length), and fold the wire back on itself. Bring the wire back up to the top of the leg and bend it back down again for the second leg, then back up on itself again. Twist it once around the hip area, then run it up to the shoulder area - leave enough at the top for the neck, including enough length to insert into the head. At the shoulder point, bend the wire out sideways and run it the length of an arm and hand, then back on itself to the shoulder, loop it once to anchor, and then across for the other arm. Back to the shoulder and loop it once to anchor and cut off remainder. Then crimp the leg and arm ends to form hands & feet. Form your head & stick it on top, then air-dry or bake upright. You can even add sculpting medium over the wire for hands and feet. I think this would be much easier and require minimum handling of the head.
3) paint, don't sculpt, the head/facial features.
4) Make the head out of a bead or something rigid that can be painted.

Graceanne

¼ Scale Sculpting: Once I saw a picture of a lady in a magazine, who was making a mini vase out of clay. She had a large bump of clay on the rotation wheel and on top of it she had this little vase 'growing'. Couldn't you do something just like that: take a large bump of fimo and let your little doll grow out of it? It's worth a try, I think.

Marjon de Haas (The Netherlands)

50s Moderne Open House: I finished my quarter scale 50s Moderne House and would like to invite you all too see it.
http://www.wishbooktoys.com/dollhouse/50s/

John Medeiros

Roomboxes: There are several different size wooden roomboxes, but if you are going to make them yourself, I wouldn't be held to a standard size. I would make them the size that I needed for the project. The rooms in your house are not all the same size, so roomboxes shouldn't be either. If you make a project that requires little space, it would look out of place in a standard sized roombox. On the other hand, if you have a large, or very busy project, I have found that a little larger space so it is not quite as crowded looks nicer. I think that it is strictly up to the individual.

Rusty

Foamcore Roomboxes: The May 2000 issue of DM has an excellent how-to by Frank Lerner. He makes it very easy. Or you could do like I do & just wing it. Make it any size you want it to be. How big is the largest item going in, going to be? Go on from there. Whatever looks right is what I use. Also check out Joann Swanson's Wizard room in the October 2000 issue of DM. She uses foamcore for the walls, floors-everything.

Pam in St. Louie

my first kit is a country store. I know nothing except I was trying to save money for stuff for my store so I scribed the floor to make it look like a real wood floor. Then I stained it and varnished it. It came out great. Then I scribed the ceiling to look like tong and grove with ceiling beams. The bottom floor looks like 2X6 wood decked plank floor. I put tiny hole for nails. Wish I would have used some of your ideas and made it look like real nails but I just put tiny hole where the nails went and stained it. It has thousands of holes so the "real nails" would have taken me forever. l really love the way it says " this kit takes 3 to 4 hours to put together" My next step is wiring. I am so afraid to start that project.

Diana

Kitchen in a kettle: Helen from San Diego asked how to close the kettle she is going to make a kitchen in.
Well, I've never done something like that before, but I would make a door and add a kind of trellis to the outside. You can have a plant climbing in this trellis and even make some landscape around the kettle. But then you have the trouble of dusting your landscape :o)

Marjon de Haas (The Netherlands)