1" scale Mason jars: http://www.cottonridge.com has them!!!

Marsha, Newark, CA

Mini Domes: Thank you to everyone who responded to my mini glass domes query. I was asked to post the private responses. Here is what people suggested privately: JAF, Michaels, http://www.hometown.aol.com/GLASSMURPH/sitemap.html and http://www.minikitz.com. I need to replace one that broke.

Linda Master

Underwear: I don't know about making the undies, but I have ordered beautiful mini lingerie from Gwen Brennen. She has wonderful 1" and 1/2" scale lace undies, and her prices are very reasonable.
Her email is Miniavore@aol.com.

Whui

Rhinestones: I have rhinestones for miniature jewelry I have them in 4ss, 5ss, and 6ss pointed backs and some flat backs. I have them in different colors. E-mail me fay@fay-vourite.com for information - -- Fay-vourite Crafts & miniatures co. http://www.fay-vourite.com.

Fay

Miniature kaleidoscope: There are instructions for a working 1870 kaleidoscope in "The Toys of Christmas", The Best of 'The Scale Cabinetmaker' series, Volume 1, by Dorsett Publications. It was originally in TSC 8:3. It is what induced me to buy the publication although I am a long way from trying to make it. It uses tin stock, hobby mylar mirror and acetate "glass". The instructions also include a wooden stand for the kaleidoscope.

Wendy in Clinton, NJ

Baskets: Barb Lewis has wonderful basket kits. http://www.PictureTrail.com/barblewis KIRKBARB@MIDWEST.NET

Fannye

Baskets: Cut a small square of embroidery canvas. Dunk it once into water and then pull it over a convex shape of some sorts. (lids, bottles...). Hold it in place with an elastic band. Leave to dry. When completely dry, remove the elastic band and ease off the convex shape. Invert it and you have a concave shape. Now trim the edges to make it the shape and size you want. Trim the raw edges with plaited (braided) thread or, or, or .... Once trimmed and edged they are very satisfactory and such fun you end up making more than you need.

Barbara B in S. Africa

Baskets: several of the do-it-yourself mini crafting books have directions for making your own baskets. Basically, get some needlepoint canvas, collect some different shapes and sizes of molds (chapstick, acrylic paint bottle, shampoo caps, etc.), some plastic wrap or plastic mesh fruit bags, twist-ties, and tacky glue. Cut squares of canvas, soak briefly in warm water to make pliable, and smooth around your mold. Use plastic wrap or fruit bag and twist-tie to hold in place around the mold till dry. Trim the edges evenly, and finish off with a braid of the finest upholstery braid or unravel and braid several strands of the canvas. Glue in place over the edges, let dry, and paint if you want. You could use the same technique with cross-stitch fabric soaked in fabric stiffener. Quilling paper (cut your own in 1/16 - 1/4 inch wide strips) can be coiled and glued around a mold or criss-crossed with a band of same paper folded in half lengthwise as the top band to make berry baskets. Just look around and experiment. It's easy and fun.

Loretta Sniarowski

Making Hairy Dogs: Human hair is going to be hard to work with, but it can be done. (I wouldn't use it on a mini doll, but I think it will work for an animal.) Cut very short sections of hair. (no longer than 1/2") Start low, on the legs and glue sections of hair around the legs, working your way up, so each layer of hair laps over the bottom layer. I use Elmers glue, after it's set a little to become tacky. When you're finished, you can trim it all over. Don't try to dye the hair on the dog, or you'll wind up with one horrendous mess. Hope that helps. Some other SSers might have even better, easier ideas. The only other one I could think of would be to clip sections of hair extremely short, smear glue all over the dog and roll him in it, like flocking.

Paulette in IN

Furry Animals: I use rabbit fur. You can get coarser or finer fur off of just one skin. Cut snippets of it a little at a time as needed, and lay them on a damp paper towel, keeping the fur as straight as possible. The towel helps to hold the fur until you're ready for it. Start at the tail, or one of the feet because it should be layered according to the "nap" of the fur. Just like putting on shingles - you can't start at the top of the roof. Put tacky glue on the animal and use tweezers to pick up and put the fur in place. Let dry, and then snip off excess. Continue doing this, overlapping each layer, until you've done the whole animal.

Some things to keep in mind:
(1) Be sure you have enough on each layer, because it's very hard to go back and touch up later.
(2) Use glue SPARINGLY. Sorry to shout, but that's important. :) It can also be thinned a little with water.
(3) You can use a soft toothbrush to brush fur (lightly) as you go along. You will then be able to tell whether you've taken (2) to the extreme.
(4) A dust mask is a good idea, because rabbit fur floats everywhere.
(5) No matter how careful you are, there will be fur on your clothes, in your glue, on your tools, and everyplace else within one square mile of where you are working.

This method isn't easy, but it's very realistic. It really depends on what you want. On the other end of the spectrum, Here's an easy way: Coat the animal with glue, drop it in a bag of flocking, shake to coat, remove and blow off excess, let dry.

Cheri Stewart