Scenic Water: Yes Scenic water is a yuckie yellow colour, I don't know if I should say this as the instruction state to use hot water to make the resin melt, but between you and me I put mine in the oven on the lowest temperature, (AND CHECK IT FREQUENTLY!! ) this helps it melt much quicker and it turn to liquid without any bubbles!

Elaine

Scenic Water: I have been using the microwave to dissolve my scenic water. Only takes 5 seconds on full power. Not sure if I should be doing it this way but it doesn't say not to on the tub.

Karon

Scenic Water: just thought I would fill you in on the Scenic Water info I found out at the Melbourne Show today. I spoke to the very nice man from the suppliers and he tells me I should just try melting small amount of scenic water otherwise it takes a long time to melt it. He checked out my scenic water which I took along and he says it's fine. So, I take it home again, measure out one teaspoon full of the wretched stuff and place it in a separate container in a pot full of water at 60 degrees for 15 minutes. Nothing happens. It softens to a warm but fairly firm gooey jell but goes no further to being liquid-ish!!! It is destined for the rubbish unless someone can convince me that I am doing something wrong. I went to the Australian suppliers website, found directions and followed them to the letter. Basically all I got from heating it was something resembling the gravy my mother in law makes at Christmas. Urrghh!!!! That alone is enough to make me want to chuck the tub in the bin. All helpful hints will be gratefully accepted. The URL for directions if anyone's interested is: http://www.cardstone.com/Deluxe/Scenic_Water_How_To.htm

Trace

Hard wiring: For routing the grooves I use my Dremel and or woodcutting tools. If you are using birch ply the woodcutters work well. However, you have better control with the Dremel and a routing bit. i also rout out areas on the floor above for chandeliers. It turns into quite a maze but I always found it worth while. You have to keep a map of your lines. I tried copper tape ONE time and had an awful time keeping sconces up and putting in the grommets. So I went back to hard wire. The wires are laid with Tacky glue and when dry I put down spackle. The wiring will go to the roof, the back of a room, or under a building depending on where I think it will work best. I cover all the edges with either 3/8's strip wood or veneer strips.

Hope you can make sense of this. I taught this once, including the splicing, shrinks and attaching the wire with copper tape tabs to copper tape line that has the junction on it for transformer. Always had examples to show so writing it isn't very easy. I learned all this 25 yr ago from a miniature shop owner and it's never failed me. I've used a false wall in the back of rooms where I've inserted a window, door etc. and then I have the wires attached back there. It's usually for thin ply or 3/8.

Roberta

Mortaring Brick/Stone: For years I've used plain cement for mortaring bricks and stones. Of course, it's gray and you have to buy a 50 pound bag. LOL Enough to share with all your friends for a lifetime. I still use this on occasion. BUT . . . I just took the Brook Tucker Kitchen Class. Even though I've been building for many years, I always learn something new from her. This is what she did for the grout in the plastic sheet for flooring.

Buy Lightweight Spackle (sometimes called "shrink-free spackle" at your local hardware store. It's like working with whipped cream. Mix in a little acrylic paint, color of your choice. I apply with a putty knife but I also take my fingers and press it in well. Wipe with a wet sponge til it's just left in the grout lines. When totally dry, spray with an acrylic sealer.

Ruth, Grass Valley, CA

Covered button sets: From WalMart or a fabric store. They come in various sizes and styles. Some brands have smooth edges and others are toothed. The smooth ones work better if you can find them. If you leave off the backing, wiggle off the shank with needlenose pliers, and turn the top part upside down, you have what looks like a shallow stainless steel bowl to fill with food. The biggest ones make a great wok with (hook &) eye handles. The button backing can be used with beads as a canister lid. It also makes dandy stove burners if you build your own appliances. Glue a small washer-type bead between the backing and a black sunburst-design sequin.

Loretta.Sniarowski

Wheels: I have something to share for the people looking for great wheels. I find Midwest Carriage has wonderful wooden wagon wheels. Someone wanted to do authentic covered wagons. His e-mail is mcarriage@aol.com

April Locker, Cleveland, OH

Taps and Faucets: try http://www.jojays.co.ukthey have a lovely selection of taps, etc.

Micki

Taps and Faucets: I am able to get first rate modern taps/faucets. Mixer type. Swivel mixer type. Separate hot and cold. Shower handset etc. Contact me privately for more info and prices but be warned these things are rare and well made so do not come cheap. http://www.littlebylittle.co.uk

Karon

African Art: And to the person looking for African Art (missed that one), I specialize in masks from all over, including Japan, Black Forest, Africa and New Guinea. I also do busts that are reproductions of museum pieces from Africa. All of my pieces are researched and authentic. maji13@dreamscape.com

Dave Pierce