Book Rooms: I can't remember right now who asked about books rooms but Shannon Moore is noted for her book displays. She can be found at www.shannonsminis.com/minis.html

Ana

Glue on Plexiglass: Do NOT use Goo Gone, or Goof Off on your Plexiglas. Or at least try it on a scrap first if you have some. Read the warning labels on any of this type of product. Goof Off states that it May cloud some plastics. I used it on a plastic box and it melted the plastic. What a mess. Had to hunt for a new little box for my project. (2 Boxes stacked together to make a greenhouse window). I was told rubbing alcohol will take glue off. You also might try ordinary paint thinner. Not Acetone, as it will also cloud plastic.

Diane in San Francisco Bay Area

Gluing Joints: I was taught that there should be squeeze-out of glue in a joint. This indicates that the joint is completely covered by the glue and the parts are in closest mutual contact. If you don't get the squeeze-out, you don't know either if your joint is secure.
1. Lack of complete mutual coverage will weaken the joint.
2. The glue is not as strong as the wood. If the parts are not on mutual contact, the strength of the glue has been substituted for the wood.
A properly glued joint should be stronger than the adjoining wood and the wood will fail before the joint does. If I am painting the item, I wipe off the excess glue. If I am staining, I let it dry and scrape off the glue.

Dave

Gluing Joints: Let the glue solidify until you can peel it off but don't leave it on long enough to get so hard you have to use a chisel. I don't use a wet rag on miniatures for three reasons: 1. It can actually soften the glue joints. 2. It will raise the grain of the wood and 3. It often causes cupping of the lumber across the grain.

Pam & Pete Boorum

Dremel Table Saw: Dremel no longer supports the table saw. I have some suggestions for you:
1. Before the belt breaks, take it off and make a tour of hardware, tool repair shops, auto parts stores, even plumbing supply stores to see if you can find a belt that looks like the one you want to replace (without the wear, of course).
2. Call 1-800 437-3635, which is Dremel's customer support and ask the question.
3. Go to http://www.dremel.com and then go to the Owners Club (it's free but you might have to register your e-mail address) and ask the question there. There are many folks on there that shareyour problem and perhaps someone can help.
The bottom line is really to try to get a belt before this one breaks. After it breaks, the dimensions are distorted.

Dave, Bradenton, FL

Dremel table saw belts: I know they are carried by Atlas Mfg. Co., 1829 Grant St., Santa Clara, CA. Phone 408-988-8002. Joanna Scarboro got 4 from him last year. You might also try http://www.dremeltool.com and see if they have them. They repair Dremels of all ages.

Barb Jones

Drive Belts for the Dremel Saw: Take off the current drive belt and using it for measurement to a store that specializes in vacuum repair and start to look at vacuum belts. When the huge seal broke on my autoclave (sterilizer) when in practice. I was told they do not make that model autoclave any more and I would have to buy a whole new machine for about $2,000.00. I went to the Vacuum shop with the broken seal and got 2 perfect replacements for under $10.00

DrBob

Dremel /fitting collettes and bits: Put your smallest collette in the Dremel and see which shanks fit that collette. Keep them in a separate pile. After you have sorted out which ones go into which collettes take a file and for the bits that fit the smallest collette make one (1) scratch mark near the free end of the shank. On the next group of bits that fit the next size collette make two (2) scratch marks and so on and so on. Then by glancing at a shank you can tell which collette it goes with.

DrBob

Dremel: you are concerned about the collets for the various bits. Most of the bits used with the Dremel tools are 1/8" dia. shaft and will fit the collet that comes with the tool. A few that can be purchased, such as the diamond engravers, etc., need a smaller collet that is not included in the kits. There are four collets that help you from 1/8" dia. shafts down to 1/32" (actually a hair diameter) Usually, if you use the bits that came with the set, you won't need another collet. Now, as you get better and buy more special bits, you might want to purchase the set of four bits. Before you do that, I would suggest you get the universal chuck which is like the chuck on your big drill and will handle all Dremel can provide you. The basic thing is that if the bit fits your collet, you are OK, If it won't tighten in the collet, you need another, smaller one.

Dave in Bradenton, FL

Gluing Leather: I work with leather all the time in my full size bookbinding and also in the making of my twelfth scale books and this is what I was taught by my master bookbinder teacher. You need time to position and work with the leather and so a glue with too much grip does not work. His formula was called 50/50 glue and was made as follows: 50 percent alcolin glue (wood glue / white glue) and 50 percent starch paste. *To make the starch paste you take a couple of table spoons of Mazena (corn flour) or powdered starch, put it into a heat proof jug or bowl, and mix with JUST enough water to make a smooth paste. Have a WOODEN spoon ready and pour BOILING (bubble, bubble, bubble) water onto the paste, stirring with the wooden spoon, until the paste goes thick and clear. STOP pouring immediately. You should end up with a clear, smooth, lump free mixture, the consistency of pouring custard. If not, chuck it out and start again from the *, this time obeying the SHOUTS! I can't give you quantities but they are not crucial. Now mix equal quantities of starch paste and alcolin glue and put it into a Tupperware with the lid on. It keeps forever. To work with your leather, place the leather, wrong side up, on wax paper, and brush with the 50/50 glue. Cover with more wax paper. Leave for 10 minutes and repeat. The leather can be saturated. Don't worry if it goes dark - it dries. The thicker the leather, the longer you can leave it to drink up this mixture. You will find that this gives you time to position and re position the leather as much as you want to.

Barbara B in South Africa