Free Web Sites: I used Tripod.com to set up both of my (free) web sites. I love them! It was extremely easy, and you can customize it however you want, with very little computer skills (it will do any HTML needed for you!). If you go to tripod.com; it will walk you through the process at your own pace. My sites can be found at:
http://dolltalk.tripod.com/dolltalk1/ AND http://dolltalk.tripod.com/dolltalkminiatures/

Stacey Torres

Photo Hosting: MSN gives anyone with a "passport" (just sign up for a hotmail email address and you get one) 30MB of space to post pictures etc. There's no charge for any of it. You can start a photo album, a web community...they give you lots of options, and it's easy to use. http://www.msn.com

Emily in Toronto

Realistic Dolls: For Mandy who is looking for real looking people that are affordable check out the hand sculpted dolls on my web site. http://www.littlebylittle.co.ukEach doll is individually hand sculpted from Fimo then hand painted. They are poseable so you can sit them down or stand them up (without stands) and have beautiful wigs and hand stitched clothing. No two dolls are the same.

Karon

Dolls to dress: If you are looking for porcelain half dolls to dress you might like to take a look at the doll kits on my website. Have almost sold out this past couple of weeks but have some more on order and expect them in soon. http://www.littlebylittle.co.uk

Karon

Mini Iron: I just got my mini iron from Michelle at www.minidolls.com. I also ordered fabric and trim from her for doll making. Her service was great and her web site is wonderful.

Jean

Mini Iron: I have the mini iron that everyone is talking about and its great. If you make doll clothes, mini soft furnishings or you make quilts, you would really appreciate having the "Miniature Seamstress Pressing Aid". I got mine from "HAPPINESS IS", 12 Middle Street, South Dartmouth, MA 02748, 508-992-6501. Sammy's web site is : http://happinessisminiatures.com/Her Pressing Aid isn't on the site, but she does still make and sell them. Her email address is sammylass@mediaone.net

Jean

Mini Ribbon: For mini ribbon try www.craftyribbons.com They have ribbon 1.5mm wide (or should I say narrow?) In satin or silk, and lots of colors to choose from.

Annie

Book Report: Pamela Warner has written a third needlework book to go with her excellent books on needlework for the Victorian and Georgian periods. Miniature Embroidery for the Tudor and Stuart Doll's House ISBN 1-86108-217-7 publisher Guild of Master Craftsman, 2001

Contents include
- - influences on design and style, techniques, how-to's etc
- - bed hangings
- - bedcovers and pillows
- - cushions
- - chair covers and footstools
- - screens
- - pictures and samplers
- - table carpets and wall hangings
- - decorative items

It's great, a must have book if you are interested in fine needlework. I know the needlework collections at the V&A museum in London really well, and it's delightful to see so many reproduced in mini - and it saves this lazy old groat having to work out how to minify them :O)

Helen from York, England

Punch Needle Tips:
1) Keep a finger on the last stitch as you do the next stitch
2) Be careful of the work until done
3) When done, before removing piece from frame (or hoop), coat backside with Aileen's Tacky Glue (smear it around with fingers)
4) Try working on 18 or 24 mesh needlepoint canvas...work will be more even

Ginger in PA

Punch Needle: don't give up on the punch needle yet. *Everyone* is frustrated by it at first, in fact the reason I started teaching punch needle classes was so many people would look at the punch needle rugs I was selling and say "oh, I bought a needle, but I could never get it to work" There are just a couple of things to get the hang of and you'll be fine, really.

You're starting right, with the fabric taut in the hoop, but you might want to try a poly/cotton blend for the fabric. I like tee-shot poplin, all Joanne's have it in lots of colors, but any mid to lightweight blend will do. The advantage to the poly is the yarn's memory, it helps the holes close up and grab the loops after they've formed. In fact, if you're getting the loops to form, you're well on your way.

To get the loops closer together, you need to work in the right direction in relation to the hole in the needle. The tip should have one side that slants ( \ ). And the yarn is threaded out through a hole opposite that (this is so much easier to show than describe!). If you're right handed, you want the slant oriented toward you just like the above illustration - so the yarn is coming out toward the right, this is the "back" of the needle. And you want to work toward or away from yourself, keeping that slant to the left and the hole to the right. It's important to keep the previously punched row to the back (the right) of the needle, or you'll tend to poke into and distort the already worked row. Turn the hoop as you follow the design, not the needle's orientation (make sense?)

After you've poked down firmly to form a loop, just raise the needle til the tip clears the fabric and slide it toward you a few threads, or a little less than the diameter of the needle tip. Poke again, and raise the needle to slide again. It's a small muscle movement you don't use for much else, and many people find it unwieldy at first. Practice! You want the back of the needle snugged up pretty close to the previous row. It's possible to overpunch, and then you get a raised dome effect, but that's not your problem yet (grin).

And finally, while you *can* pull out the row of stitches - DON'T!! When you get to the end of a row, and want to start someplace else, put your left thumbnail firmly on the last stitch, *then* pull the needle away to pull out more yarn, and trim close to the fabric. After you get a few successive rows punched, they're surprisingly secure, as long as no one goes in with their fingernails and starts pulling on the stitches. I've tried to change areas of completed rugs and had an awful time pulling out the stitches. Some people prefer to coat the back of the rug with a diluted solution of tacky glue, but I've never had any of my rugs come apart, ever, and I don't use anything.

As for the size yarn for that gauge needle, I can't say without seeing them. But do experiment with more or fewer strands of floss, if that's what you're using. You just want the yarn to move freely through the needle (when you're just pulling on it) as any drag will prevent stitches from forming. If you want to try some of the acrylic yarn I use for punch needle, contact me and I'll send you some to try in your needle. There are no rules here, it's whatever works (isn't that our favorite part of miniatures?)

Bonni in NH