Doll Clothes: I dress dolls and sell doll dressing kits as well as ready made clothing. There are some costuming books available as well and I've started to write on the 20th century as I haven't been able to find any patterns later than Edwardian. I sell Susan Sirkis' books for the 19th cent. and there are one or two larger books available in bookstores, but for Victorian and earlier. Some individual patterns are available from other miniatures dealers, check web sites for Sandy's and Etcetera, but again, vintage styles.

If you're using a pattern, or even a kit, you need to fit the pattern to your individual doll -making a mock-up out of a soft, lightweight, cheap fabric, or even paper towels. It is very difficult to get ready made to fit a doll. In scale closures are just about impossible to make in working form; the clothing is usually sewed or glued on the doll and buttons, etc. are faked. Of course ready made is fine for display and I have some. You can see some of my things and get more info. at my new web site http://home.mindspring.com/~byrachelle.

Rachelle

Doll Clothes: Thelma Lewis DeMet http://thelmalewisdemet.homestead.com/index.html makes wonderful clothing for mini dolls. her e-mail is tldemet@ameritech.net. She is a member of this list.

Rosemary in Cleveland

Stiffening Doilies: Don't use sugar water anymore to reset doilies. Use liquid starch instead. Pin and shape to a cardboard or wrap around a bowl, etc., for baskets. Sugar water invites bugs (even in cold Canada) some of which damage doilies. Hand wash with gentle detergent, rinse and then soak in liquid starch and shape. When I owned my antique shop, I did a LOT of doilies!

Michelle in South Carolina

Poodle Skirt: Lone Wolf Mini Creations has a kit for a miniature poodle skirt at http://www.lonewolfminicreations.com/Poodle%20Skirt.htm.

Rosemary in Cleveland

Sewing Silk: Gutterman thread makes a silk finish thread that is better suited to silk fabric. When sewing by hand there is a silicone product (like the wax product only much better with no build up) for treatment of the thread that allows it to not tangle so much. It can be found in most quilting stores and a small container will last almost forever. Just run the thread across the silicone to apply - it was originally used to treat the thread in fine beadwork. For machine sewing on silk - it is mandatory to keep a sharp needle in your machine. When the needle becomes dull it will pull the treads in your silk and once these are pulled the fabric is damaged. Wash you silk to remove the sizing before sewing.

Jean

Gauze/Ultrasuede: I am pleased to let all of you know that a Supplies page has been added to my web site http://www.micro-stitchery.com. I am now offering 5 counts of silk gauze, 2 sizes of needles and pieces of Ultrasuede in 12 colors. Why Ultrasuede you ask? Because it is a wonderfully soft, man-made "fabric" that has the look and feel of genuine suede. Because it does not ravel, it makes a rich backing for pillows, Christmas stockings, bell pulls and tapestries. It is also terrific for making purses, shoes, clothing and probably 1000 other things that all you clever people will think of. I use it in my kits but in some areas it is difficult to find, especially in small pieces, so I decided to sell it. Also new to the site are 2 Christmas Stocking kits with more coming soon!

Bobbie

Machine Sewing: This is another easy easy way to machine sew small pieces: Draw the pattern pieces onto the wrong side of a piece of fabric (preferably using an "invisible" quilting pen). Then -- for those pieces that require two pattern pieces, fold the fabric over right sides touching, or lay a second piece of fabric with right sides touching, on back of the drawn piece. Now sew on top of your pencil lines wherever sewing is required. THEN cut out the pieces just outside your sewing or pencil line. That makes it possible to have a VERY tiny seam because you can cut as close to your sewing as is safe to prevent fraying. You can also (after cutting out the pieces) give the seam edges a light coat of tacky glue to prevent fraying. Or possibly paint the glue over your pencil line... dry thoroughly, and then sew and cut out. The only danger with this method is that you might forget, and sew over the COMPLETE pencil line, when only parts of the pattern are supposed to be sewn.

Viola

Gluing Fabric: Gluing fabrics, like so many other things, is a very broad subject. A lot depends on the fabric you are using. I work with a lot of kinds of fabrics that are different from the usual 'silk and cotton' which one is likely to hear recommended for miniature work. Of course, I do work with those too, and for them I use mostly Tacky glue, NOT thinned, as it would be more likely to soak through and show with a higher water content. I also use many fabrics with metallic threads in them, and highly recommend Fabritac glue for them! It is also wonderful on satin ribbon and poly/blend fabrics. Often, I end up using more than one kind of glue on one project. I mostly make a little puddle of glue on and old, used milk bottle top, and apply it using a toothpick. One 'trick' is...keep your toothpick clean...or take a new one when it gets yucky! When it comes to using glue for any project, less is always better than more!

Lycra, yes, bathing suit fabrics, are one of my favorite fabrics to work with. The two way stretch makes it wonderful to work with. And it glues like a dream with the Fabritac! Also barely ever unravels!

Alice Zinn

Gluing Fabric: You asked how I use it. I use it undiluted... just dot it on with a toothpick... then spread out the dots so there is very little glue used. If it remains in globs, I can rub across it with my finger so there is a light spreading of glue. The only exception to that was when I made the videos... the lights were so hot that the glue dried almost immediately and I had to "overdose" on glue. However, even then the glue did not stiffen the fabric. If you have trouble getting the glue to stick... iron the two glued pieces together. The glue will hold almost immediately.

Some materials really don't handle glue well as the glue will bleed through. In that case you have to sew. However, if you use a tacky glue such as Aileen's, Velverette (or I understand, Gripp) it will not stiffen the fabric. I even saw someone use a fairly thick line of glue on her hem.. and the fabric still was not stiff. But I still recommend a thin line of glue.

As I cautioned in my earlier email... do be careful if you get glue on your fingers, to not touch the garment until your fingers are clean. I believe it was Sue Atkinson (a well known British doll maker) who keeps a wet paper towel on her lap while she works, so she can clean her hands periodically when gluing.

viola

Painting on Side of Building: I first find a copy of an old advertisement that I like. Sometimes it is from a reproduction catalog, often an actual package label I have purchased at an antique show. Before applying any medium, I rough the edges of the print with an emery board. I lightly spray my print with a matte fixative. I do not worry about applying an even coat over the entire surface. The more shades there are in the finished product, the more authentic the aging process will appear.

I use Mod Podge (Matt Finish) to make a decal. I like the decal technique more than decoupage for this particular application. In making a decal, we rub away the back of original printed item leaving only the ink on the decal material. This gives a translucent background to our image that will allow the color of the wall to show through the design in some areas. I think this looks more like it was painted on the wall than a decoupage application. Decoupage, unless you are incredibly skilled in cutting out tiny things, hides the side of the building by covering it with the paper your image has been printed on. Any transfer method you are familiar with will work equally well as long as the transfer is not shiny when dry.

Whether the wall of the miniature structure has been painted, bricked or sided, I apply my decal using Mod Podge for the glue. I apply a heavy coat of medium to allow more work time with the decal. If it is a brick structure, it takes time to press the print into the mortar area of each brick. I work from the top to the bottom. This makes it easier when I need to tuck the decal around the overlap of clapboard siding. I work air bubbles out with a small piece of sponge. I do not try to remove all wrinkles and bubbles.

If you do not want your structure to appear old and weathered - simply apply a light coat of Mod Podge to all exterior surfaces to make the highlights the same on all of your exterior walls. If your sign is to be new, take care to smooth it out carefully when you apply the decal.

I take care to brush a little of my medium across the entire side of the building. I also brush some on all other exterior sides of the structure. I do not attempt to be neat. I do not attempt to cover all of the area. I only want to randomly scatter another texture on the exterior finish. When the transfer has dried to the touch, I use a fine grade sanding brick to GENTLY knock off the bubbles and creases. I use the same brick along the entire exterior of the structure, knocking wear into corners, edges off of windows, etc. I also like to carve initials and other graffiti in the appropriate places.

Now I make an antiquing glaze using a matte finish, acrylic varnish mixed with burnt sienna acrylic in a ratio of 1 to 10.I apply this antiquing glaze to the entire exterior of the building, including all trim. Take care to work it into every crack where dirt and grime would live. Again, this is a thin coat, carelessly applied. I want wear, not a flawless finish, so some "raw" areas are desirable. Work a small area at a time. Apply with a sponge brush and dab with a damp sponge for a good variety of color and highlight. When this has dried for another 24 hours, I study the effect then reapply my sanding brick to knock off additional emphasis of age in certain high traffic areas such as stair treads, door frames, porch rails.

I complete the aging and application of a sign by applying a wash of water tinted with black acrylic to the entire exterior of the structure. Where I sanded the second time, or where no varnish was applied, this will darken the finish. I use a clean damp sponge to wipe away any excess. As before, I work a small area at a time.

Becky