Plaster Molds: I have worked with plaster molds professionally and as an amateur in the past. I have even made molds, but have worked almost exclusively in porcelain and earthenware. I will attempt to offer some suggestions. I believe that if you use hydrocal plaster to pour into the molds you may have some success. It is stronger and there was some discussion on where to purchase it some months ago. So go to the archives and search for it. When I made molds I used tincture of green soap ((pharmacy) as a separator, not baby powder and other things. I know that many people will suggest other things and they probably will work. I can only tell you what I have used and been successful with. Brush on a light coat and try to avoid bubbles. And if you are attempting to mold very thin intricate things perhaps plaster is not what you should use, but rather resin or something else that will hold the intricate shape better. If I can be of any further help, please email me. It will be helpful to know exactly what you are trying to replicate.

Gary in NH

Thanks to all...Thanks to all of you for your nice comments on the tile house. This really isn't a totally unique idea - I have seen some other mini scenes made from weird stuff (including eggs, tiles, tin cans, tree stumps, gift bags, and on and on....) and I bet we could turn almost anything into a cool scene. And I can't begin to tell you the times I have been inspired by the projects made by people on this digest. OK, everyone give yourself a big pat on the back!

Someone asked how I cut the openings - that was the hard part!!!! I cut the holes with a tile drill. I went around the opening and made a bunch of holes close to each other. Then I broke out the inside area with a hammer. Broke the tile in a few places, too.... But I wanted that rustic look so a few cracks didn't matter. I used a coarse file to smooth the openings. I wanted to use a tile saw I have, but it fits in a hacksaw and the throat depth wasn't enough to allow me to cut the openings that way.

Someone else asked how I distressed the wood on the Michael's hutch. It isn't actually distressed at all, but rather sponged painted to give it that blotchy look. The base coat just looked too flat and boring, and this doctored it up nicely.

Another person mentioned the cactus. That is made from some pod that I collected. My husband and son were with me and they are trained enough now that they don't even bat an eye when they see me picking up weird stuff. I don't know the name of it, but I bet someone on the list knows what it is. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=345686&a=4165987&f=0 (link to tile house)

Bonnie Gibson - Tucson, Arizona

Pattern reduction: if you are always looking at patterns that need to be reduced or enlarged. Get a pantograph. It is a fantastic little instrument that permits one to copy at just about any percentage of reduction or enlargement. Its is a pure mechanical device. Start looking at sites that offer drafting supplies.

DrBob

Other uses for flocking: I spread glue under a big tree that would be all shade and sprinkled the flocking on it and it made a great ground cover. turned out really nice

Annette Long

Inventory Records: Here is how I inventory my collection. I have a file folder for each house, roombox, dome, etc. I created a spreadsheet on the computer with the following columns: Date Acquired - Description -Maker/Manufacturer - Value (as a dealer, it's sometimes wholesale) - Retail Cost. If it's made by a friend, I give it a fair market value. All receipts or notes with this information are kept that units file. Then I have a tally sheet listing the total value of each unit, for a grand total. (The amount scares me sometimes!) Receipts/Notes for the things I've not used yet are kept in a separate file. As I "shop" my cabinets while decorating, I add that note to the proper folder.
This works for me without being too complicated. If anyone has any other suggestions, I'd like to hear them.

Ruth, Grass Valley, CA

Organizing Part 1: by Connie Sauve

Inventory Records: As far as organizing my own miniatures (I'm known for my organizing skills, more ideas to come later) I have a 3-ring binder with tabbed dividers for each project I'm collecting for. I designed a form (I'm also a Graphic Designer) to keep track of all my miniatures I make or purchase. I have a separate form for each project, including (as an example for my dollhouse) I have a page for each room in my dollhouse, and also one for building supplies and one for the landscaping for the house. Most of my single roomboxes just have a single form to cover the whole project. The form includes:

1. "Title" put the name of the project at the top (or a blank for writing it in).

2. "Date" for when the item was purchased or made.

3. "H/P" which stands for Handmade or Purchased, just write H or P for the appropriate option.

4. "Description" for a detailed description of the item.

5. "Cat #" to put the item # or kit item # in, in case you would like to get another one.

6. "Artist" used to put the artist's name who made the item (or company name like Chrysnbon), or your name if it was handmade.

7. "Purchased" is for where you purchased the item from, usually a business name.

8. "Price" lastly a column for the price (I advise not adding a project up! It can be scary).

It's a great way to keep track of all your miniatures in one spot. I have at least 30 projects I'm collecting for (sound familiar?). I write everything in pencil only, because when I purchase an item for a particular project, that doesn't mean that's where it ends up. Then you can just erase the information and move it to another project.

If anyone is interested in obtaining a copy of my Miniature Inventory form, I'll make one up in Microsoft Word and I can e-mail a generic document to you. Just send me an e-mail with "Miniature Inventory Form" in the subject line and I'll send you a copy. I would like to put it on my website, but I'm not sure how to do it so people can access it an print it off themselves.

I keep all receipts I get and add to them if information is missing such as dates, detailed description, business names and artists name. I keep these separate as they tend to pile up. I also have a rule for myself that I'm not allowed to put away my new minis until they get written in my binder, which keeps me caught up. I also have been leaving the price tags on things (if they are small and can be hidden), then if anything ever happens to me, someone doesn't sell it for .25 at a garage sale (my family is well trained and knows better). My hubby doesn't care (to a point) what I pay for my minis, so I can leave the prices on (my Mom is a different story, she doesn't understand).

I have a tendency to collect lots of items from the same artist's, Wright Guide Miniatures as an example. I think I have just about everything they make and can't seem to get past their booth without spending lots of money, those $2 and $3 dollar items sure add up fast! I have a separate list going for a few select artists that I can write down all the items I get from that person. Then I can pull out those pages and bring them with me to a show that I know they will be at, so I don't duplicate buying the same things over and over.

Connie Sauve

TWELFTHS OF AN INCH - ARCHITECTS SCALE: A "scale" is a fancy name for specialized ruler. Calling it a "scale" rather than a ruler allows a higher price but also allows rather higher expectations for the user. An "architects scale" as sold in the United Sates and other non-metric realms is made especial for converting inch and foot measurements common scale sizes. There are several different sizes, shapes, and materials but the most common are slightly more than a foot long and has three faces (triangle shape rather than flat) with color bands on each face. Mine has a red, green, and black banded face. The red banded face is used to measure in 1/8" per foot, 1/4 inch per foot, 1/2 inch per foot and 1 inch per foot scales depending upon which edge and from which end you measure. The last number at very end of each edge indicates which scale you measure from that end and edge. Following from here, it will be easiest with such a scale in your hand. They can be purchased at art, drafting, and most office supply stores.
Be sure you get the architects variety of scale since it will have feet divided into inches and fractions of inches. An engineers scale looks very similar but everything is divided into tenths rather than twelfths - we don't want the engineers type.

Color of band and which end has the 1 inch per foot markings may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer so study your scale and find the number "one" at the very end of one face/edge There will be an inch of very fine marks right next to the "1" with 0, 3, 6, and 9 inch indicators. With the scale held so these numbers/marks right side up and along the upper edge, I would say that MY SCALE has the 1 inch scale at the left end of the red band face. Be prepared to say right where I say left and/or green or sky-blue-pink as is appropriate for your own scale as we continue.

Presuming that most of these scales are divided up pretty much the same, That first inch of the 1" scale is divided into inches (marked at 0, 3, 6, and 9 inches -12 inches is the very last mark by the "1") Mine is furthersubdivided into halves and quarters of each inch. Now you are ready for quickconversion to scale for those things smaller than a foot. Measure the full sizeitem you want to miniaturize using an ordinary ruler. Is the item 7 and 1/2 inches across? You can now switch to your scale (Top, left, red for 1") and mark your material at the scale markings at"0" and at 7 1/2. 7-1/2 would be the first long line beyond "6" and then two of the smaller marks for two quarters (or one half) I sincerely hope that this is very clear. Find 3 inches (0 and 3), Find 6-1/4 scale inches. Use your scale to measure the 1/16" divisions on an ordinary ruler.1/16 of a full sized inch should prove to be 3/4 of a scale inch. A real 1/8" will prove to be 1 ½ scale inches. Form a habit of differentiating. Real rulers and yardsticks measure inches and feet - A thing may be one foot six inches but NOT 18 inches. With your scale, you measure or indicate "SCALE" inches and feet". For measurements from a foot to 10 feet, use the numbers that increase as you move along the edge of the scale away from that sub-divided scale foot at the end. Along that edge you may see (in order) 20, 1, 18, 2, 16, 3- - -etc. Ignore the descending 20, 18, etc. as these do not apply for 1/12 size. If you will never use this scale for half scale miniaturing, paint them away with whiteout or such. Keep the 1, 2, 3 etc.

Measure the height of your chair seat with a standard yardstick. Suppose it proves to be 1 foot 6 inches high. In 1/12 scale this distance would be the space from the "1" for one foot to the subdivision "6" for 6 inches. Note that measuring a miniature with a scale there is a big difference from normal tape measures and rulers. We do not start our scale measurements from an end of the scale. Rather, we start exactly at the mark indicating how many full feet. For 5 foot 3 we start from the five mark and measure to the 3-inch mark. For 4 foot 8 we would start from the 4-foot mark and on to the 8-inch mark.

Mel K in Las Vegas

1/12th rule in UK: You can get 1/12th rulers in the UK at Squires Model and Craft Tools, 100 London Road, Bognor Regis, PO21 1DD, tel 01243 842424 fax 01243 842525. They say a web page is "coming". If you have ever seen their catalogue, you would realize why this could be slow, they supply just about everything you can think of. As well as the standard 12" long metal 1/12th ruler, cost about £3, they now also do a three sided architect type ruler with various scales on it including 1/12th. They are at some of the Dollshouse fairs and also at most toy train fairs.

Colette

Printing on Fabric: Another way of printing to fabric is to use waxed freezer paper that is available in your grocery store, look for it where the other wraps are sold.
1. Cut a piece of freezer paper the same letter size as your regular printer paper.
2. Cut lightweight cotton fabric the same size as printer paper, I use my husband's old cotton dress shirts.
3. Place the freezer paper shiny side up on ironing board.
4. Lay the material on top and press together making sure that all sides are well pressed.
5. Insert into your printer, fabric side down (at least with a HP printer) and print away.

Works great! I've printed out rugs and fringed the edges using this method and I'm very pleased with them. Be sure to spray your printed article with an acrylic sealer to insure the print is fixed.

Marilyn, MI

Dressing Room: Purchase a small one of those makeup mirrors with the lights all around. Take out the mirror. Make or buy a box out of foam core or wood to fit on the back, and do a dressing room scene. Have the makeup table right in the front, with the frame from the mirror, but no actual mirror in it so that when the doll who is sitting there looks out, you can see her face. If you could get a portrait doll that looks like your niece, she would be 'looking at herself in the mirror!

Alice Zinn