50s Fridge: the information can be found in: May 1998 Dollhouse Miniatures; November 1990 Nutshell News; and August 1983 Nutshell News.

Stacey Torres

Altoids Fridge: altoid fridges, revisited.

Altoid fridges: Okay, Currently I am armed with this bit of information -- you need 2 tins, a silver clip from a pen, spray paint and glue. I am sure with a little group concentration, we can puzzle this out for ourselves:). All I know from a few cryptic sentences and a picture in a magazine is that you glue two tins together, and get rid of one lid (not necessarily in that order). I emptied my mint boxes (but not before eating one for inspiration), and started playing around with the boxes until I achieved "fridge". From the picture it almost looks like the person only used one tin, but I can't really see the side. I think I may try the one tin thing, as I am going for 3/4 scale and my galley kitchen can't handle anything too wide. This may need a support of some sort on the bottom so it isn't "leaning" against a wall. I would suspect the next step would be to spray-paint the tins. The hardware guy who sold me the paint said to rough up the painted surface first with sandpaper. Last step would be to glue on the silver clip (or any piece of silver metal, I would wager, you might be able to find an appropriate jewelry finding). I believe the style of fridge we are going for is like a 1954 Norge, which has a solid door. I used to have a similar fridge in my first apartment,and I was taller than it was (it was about 5 feet in height, I believe. It had a little plastic freezer that was in the main compartment). What we need now is the glue that binds (metal to metal, that is).

Kim From Canada

Quarter scale 50s printies: If anybody would like some of the 1/4" printies of the wallpaper and drapes I made. I have added a printie link to the page: http://www.wishbooktoys.com/dollhouse/50s/

John Medeiros

Getting a book published: every public library should have in its reference section a on the subject of which publishing companies publish what kinds of materials. Unfortunately, I forget the name, but the librarian should know it. It's extremely well organized and includes information about whether the publisher accepts unsolicited manuscripts, whether it works with first-time writers, whether it prefers to receive illustrated manuscripts or prefers to use its own illustrators, etc. It really is THE place to start, unless your friend chooses to work through a literary agent. In that case, please tell him or her to be careful and get references. As a lawyer, I've seen too many cases of alleged agents who are nothing more than scam artists. A good one, though, can be worth its weight in gold and cut through a whole lot of layers that you or I couldn't on our own.

Rosemary in Cleveland

Getting a book published: She should buy, or check out from the library, the latest edition of the Writers' Digest Writers Market book. Look under the 'book publishers-crafts' section. Read the guidelines, payment rates, etc. and then submit her material to the ones she thinks are the best bets. The book also has interesting articles. (Make sure she doesn't pick up the edition for *fiction* markets, though.)

Molly

Getting a Book Published: If you are publishing the book in the US, submit it to either (not more than one at a time) Scott Publishing (Miniature Collector) or Kalmbach Publishing (Dollhouse Miniatures). In the UK, I would try The Guild of Master Craftsmen (Dollhouse Magazine).

Tom Berkner

Pattern/Idea Books: regarding the books of designs that someone mentioned (as a source for Chinese designs) - these books are produced by Dover http://store.doverpublications.com/
go here for the craft section: http://store.doverpublications.com/by-subject-crafts.html and here for quick access to all the design books: http://store.doverpublications.com/by-subject-art.html
These books contain copyright free clip art, lettering, designs, etc., and mostnow come with the CD. They are very reasonably priced, and an invaluable source of designs for any and every purpose. I have several myself.

Graceanne

¼ Scale: Jan Be Nimble is still doing wonderful 1/4" work, and does a number of shows in addition to her catalog. I did not realize she ever had a web site, although she does have email: jmccandliss@computer.org

Amy in Kansas

Kit Reviews: Concerning the various advice given concerning various kit companies. You cannot make a good judgment between the two basic types of kits unless you understand the principles of each kind. The kits that I lump into the "sweat equity" kits include the die-cut kits such as Greenleaf, Duracraft, Corona, etc. These kits are a lot less expensive but require a lot of work to make them as beautiful as you desire. What you saved in cost you will put into the "sweat equity" it takes to build them but they also generally include the ability to make the details such as windows. These kits can be made into houses as beautiful (or better) than the picture on the box. It will take longer to make the shell and you will probably pick up a few splinters. I have built houses from all of them and will continue to do so when I find a house I like. I will recognize that I shall have to work a bit harder to make it into a "silk purse." Who ever said it was easy?

The "Good" kits such as Real Good Toys have, in the past, been made with 3/8" plywood and make assembly and fitting of features such as windows easier. They are generally much more expensive, but are more quickly turned into a desirable house. I have built one of their MDF material kits and the jury is still out on that since it didn't seem to save any money. The greatest advantage I see, other than the lessened building difficulty, is the fact that the thicker walls accept the many pins involved in electrical wiring. They are all good. You just must realize the cost/effort ratio when you buy the kit. My suggestion is to select the house you will fall in love with and get that kit. My major dollhouse, that is kept here at home, is the Beaumont by Greenleaf. My lighthouse is by Real Good Toys. Go for it with the house you love,

Dave Brazelton

Ice Fishing Shanty: While a little primitive, an ice fishing shanty I have been in had a 10 gallon white bucket turned over with a stadium pad on it for a chair and an electric heater (on top of another over turned bucket) run on a modified cord to a car battery - not attached to a car - to power it. There was also a cooler full of bait and lunch (to keep it from freezing actually - not to keep it cold). The hole in the ice was more or less round and wider on top than at the water level. The 'chair' was set on top of plywood - I presume spread out the weight of the fisherman either that or to keep the bucket from freezing to the ice or both. I have no idea how typical this is or not. I'd suggest go to the library and look up fishing magazines. I'm sure they'd have run articles on ice fishing.

Carolyn