Yo-Yo Quilt: I did not see the original post by the person asking about yo-yo quilts but will give the only description that I know. A yo-yo is a circle of material which is sewn around the edge with a gathering stitch then pulled to form a circle. They were then sewn together to form the quilt. Some chose to sew the yo-yos to a solid piece of material to make a backing. A variety of sizes were used, depending on what was going to be made from them. Yo-Yos were also sewn together to make pot holders and vests. When I was a child, this was one of the methods by which we were taught to sew. I make yo-yo quilts in 1" and 1/2" scale. I have not made them in ¼ scale yet but am going to try that too. They are a lot of fun to make!

Linda B

Yo-Yo Quilt: The yo-yo quilt pattern is very old, they are made (in life size) by cutting out circles of about 4 inches in diameter (or larger if you want), folding down a hem all around the circle, then sewing a running stitch all around the outside of the circle, then pulling it in taut to form the yo-yo. Tie off the thread and when you have many hundreds of these made, you sew them together, first in a long string, then sew the strings together, so that each yo-yo is sewn to the next. It will look like the yo-yo's are sewn to each other in the north, south, east and west position. They look great in their multi-colors, and look better if they have a colored sheet or coverlet underneath them, as the color will show through in the spaces between the yo-yo's.

In 1994, for Mother's Day, my favorite paternal aunt, who is an award winning quilter in life size, made me a yo-yo quilt in miniature. She said she started with fabric circles about the size of a nickel, then made them just like the full size one. The yo-yo's are about 3/8 inch in diameter and in this tiny quilt, which fits a mini double bed, there are 99 tiny yo-yo's. What a treasure!

Patty Adamson in Bandera TX

Yo-Yo Quilt: Yo-yo quilts are sometimes also called Suffolk Puffs.  I have just completed a single bed quilt for my dh.  As an ex-patch-worker I have plenty of small sample squares - an Australian 10 cent coin is just under 1" and made puffs a bit less than 3/8" across. Cut the circles out about 4 layers thick (any more and they tend to become misshapen) They are gathered around the outside, folding in a small seam allowance (slightly less than 1/8th inch )  To join together start by threading a knotted thread inside a puff and out on one side, join to next puff with two tiny over sew stitches, finish by pushing the needle across inside the second puff and out on the opposite side (be careful not to pull the thread too tight through the puff). The quilts can be just a scrap quilt of all colors, but I have seen old photos where they were formed into patterns - a central block of 16 puffs surrounded by a different color, or a band of solid puffs around a row or two on from the outer edge.  It is usually best to use 100% cotton, but a synthetic which doesn’t fray and is easy to handle may make a less bulky puff.  The full size were usually attached to a backing but my mini quilt has enough body without this.

Robyn in Australia

Velvet Drapes: I have a great tip for all of you with regard to draping certain fabrics, especially those like velvet which you do not want to use a product like Stiffy on. I have use this method to do velvet drapes for Sherlock Holmes flat and even to pleat a kilt for a little Scottish doll. Spread the back of the fabric with a thin layer of tacky glue, then stick it to HEAVY DUTY aluminum foil (made by Reynolds, mostly for use in barbecuing) Let it dry, then fold as you wish, and folds will stay as you bend them. You can even "puddle" draperies onto the floor without that awful look that minis often have, where you just KNOW that gravity isn't working on them as it should!

Alice Zinn - Pt. St. Lucie FL

Paint Pens: While in my local CVS (drugstore) the other day, I found a new product by Elmers(the glue company). They are called "3D washable Paint Pens" and come in 8 colors. They are essentially pen-shaped tubes of paint, which you squeeze and paint squirts out. However, they have fairly thin tips, which makes them useful for mini work. I used them to decorate some plates, but I think they might also have applications in food (for "dollops" of frosting, etc), or anywhere else you want a slightly raised surface. They are probably available in most craft stores.

Celeste in Boston

Stucco: Here in CA stucco houses are a way of life, so many of my dollhouses have stucco exteriors. The following directions for stucco are in the warm up directions from the Greenleaf Glencroft dollhouse. The style of your house may suggest the use of a stucco surface on the walls and/or chimney surfaces. We use Greenleaf Stucco powder which is mixed with latex paint in about a 50/50 proportion. Mix it thoroughly in a separate container, not the paint can. Apply the mixture with a brush, foam brush, or roller. You'll find that a number of different textures can be created, but don't make the coating too thick. It's easier to add a second coat if you want more texture than to remove it if there is too much! Most houses with stucco surfaces, such as Greenleaf's Glencroft, have trim pieces which must be glued on over the stucco. If this is the case, keep the stucco layer thin.

Dolores

Stucco: I used spackling on my Glencroft and chiseled out where the wood trim went. I put the trim pieces up to the house and traced them into the spackling (after it was dry and painted) and scraped away. It turned out really neat. http://puxplace.homestead.com/Glencroft.html

Lita

Stucco and Trim:

1. Paint or stain all your trim pieces and let them dry for a couple of days. You want the finish to have dried and cured. You know that paint is  'soft' even after it has dried.

2. Cover all these loose pieces of trim on the finished side with masking tape. Just stick it right on - turn the pieces over and trim off any excess masking tape.

3. Glue your trim in place. Let the glue dry overnight.

4. Mix up your chosen stucco and apply to the house or box right over the trim.

5. Now  while the stucco is fresh and wet - peel off the masking tape from the trim pieces.

Do Not Let the Stucco Dry Before Removing Masking Tape !!!!

Great finish - no missing bits of stucco- no following pencil lines.

Paddy

Stucco and Trim: Stick wide masking tape round the window and door openings, as well as the insides of the frames. Put the doors/windows in place, and trace around it with a very sharp pencil. Remove windows and cut on the pencil line with a X-Acto knife (with sharp blade).

Apply the stucco (made mine with mixture of Polyfill, water and wood glue) Texture the stucco, and remove the masking tape IMMEDIATELY. If you wait too long it will be hard as a rock and tear the masking tape. When dry, paint the desired color. Finish your doors and windows separately, and then put into place. It worked for me. Everything just slipped into place.

Betsie, Western Cape, South Africa

Stucco: Dab paint on a small area. While wet apply l layer (separated from a tissue) of "torn" Kleenex. (the torn edges blend better than straight edges). Dab on with a stiff brush or smooth out gently (depending on the look you want). If more texture is desired add another layer after first is dry. Continue with entire building. Your paint works like glue. If you have any loose spots, just dab on more paint. Allow to dry. Add another coat of paint. Dry. Spray or brush on a matte varnish. Water cleanup type is fine. This will help keep the building clean. (i.e., future dust will be easier to remove).

Diane in SFBA