How to Print on Fabric Using Your Inkjet Printer Using Freezer Paper: With this method, you will actually print directly onto the fabric, rather than transferring. Cut a piece of fabric the size of a regular piece of paper (8 1/2 X 11). Cut a piece of freezer paper the same size. Press the wrong side of the fabric to the shiny side of the freezer paper, using an iron set to medium heat. Press just enough to melt the wax on the paper, and fuse the fabric to it--- the whole thing will become slightly stiff. Trim if necessary, so that there are no fabric edges hanging over the paper. Put the fused piece into the printer tray with the fabric side facing the proper direction for the printer to print directly onto the fabric. Be sure the sheet is in straight, and that there is regular printer paper beneath it in the printer tray.

You may want to experiment with your printer settings. If available, try special paper or transparency settings. Try setting to highest quality print and darkest print level. If your printer allows for extra drying time, try this as well. Each printer is different, so once you get some settings that work for you, write them down.

Once you have your settings ready to go, print the image onto the fabric. Once the sheet goes through, it's best to handle the piece as little as possible until it is really dry. Set it aside for a while, or use a blow dryer.

This method can be a little tricky, but yields a very nice result, with good color quality. The down side is that the finished piece will not be washable. I've heard there is a product out there that will set the ink, making it permanent, but I haven't tried or found it yet.

Terri

Acrylic display boxes: Try here for these in various sizes, Buffalo Creek Miniatures and Displays. : Cases https://theseus.safe-order.net/bcminiatures/store/c2.html

Marilyn in Illinois

Martha Pullen's laces: This should take you to Martha's laces pages.http://store.marthapullen.com/  

MissMary in Alabama

24th scale: I recently started in 24th scale, and found one house in the States which has rooms two deep. I think it is called the Thornhill by Houseworks. You can see them on the HBS site: http://www.miniatures.com   . I think they also sell them in the UK at Hobby's. But as you have someone who can build a house for you, you are all set!

Lighting: I got mine from Wood 'n' Wool lighting in the UK. No website that I know of but you can email them for a catalogue for £3.00. Try mailing sales@woodnwool.com   or call them on 01394 460836, they are in Suffolk. As for the other accessories, you will find that many 12th scale sellers will also carry some 24th scale stuff. I find most of mine at shows. Also, suppliers in the US are great. One that I buy from often is http://www.halfscaleminis.com  .

There are only 2 books that I have found so far (but am sure more must exist out there!). One is by Derek Rowbottom called Miniature Doll Houses in 1:24th scale, and the other is by Jean Nesbitt which is just an intro to the scale. You can find these books at http://www.miniaturebookshop.com/  

Marja, Notting Hill, UK

Storage: I store wood pieces such as clapboard etc in keyboard boxes. I get them from the IS Dept. at work. I store dowels, trims, mouldings etc in Pringle and coffee cans. I have a large square tin box I throw in all those little pieces of wood.

Marsha, Newark, CA

Alternative to Minicrafter Bench Saw: Sandra Monk's SS post questioned the suitability of the Minicraft bench saw for cutting down commercial strip wood into the sizes...and for cutting rebates into furniture.

We have no information on this equipment because it is not commonly used by miniature furniture artisans in the United States. We offer an alternative that is very well suited to her requirements. The best equipment we know of for this kind of work is the small 4" x 6" Preac saw with the very fine.020" (.5mm) thick blade with 132 teeth to the inch. The diameter of this saw is only 2" (48mm). Not only is it very quiet and vibration free but it has an extremely accurate rip fence that I use frequently for making tiny parquetry. Also, there is no insert in this saw because none is needed. The blade doesn't tilt. The slot where the blade protrudes is only about .100" (2.5 mm) wide so you do not lose any of little pieces you cut into the sawdust below. We use our machines to cut rebates and dados up to 1/16" wide in a single pass.

Jonathan David uses this machine in Israel with a transformer to convert from 220VAC. It seems to work fine. The saw was invented by a model ship builder. That accounts for why it is so satisfactory with small strip wood, which is their mainstay. http://www.nh.ultranet.com/~smallife/preac_saw.html

Pete Boorum

First roombox: an old aquarium makes a good starter roombox; you can add foamcore walls on three sides, and either omit lighting by having a clear or frosted glass pane cut as a lid, or make a foamcore lid to accommodate ceiling wiring. Find them cheap at yard sales. I love them to do mini-gardens because adding a lid keeps them dust-free.

Loretta_Sniarowski

The Alison, Jr: I built the Alison, Jr. with the addition. Eventually, I put a total of four additions on the house. The addition rooms were too small to do much with. But what I did at first was that I changed the windows, door, gingerbread, porch poles and railings. I also added a widow's walk rail on the roof and window boxes finished the look. I know this can be really expensive, but I bought a few windows, door, etc., whenever I could. I love the way my Alison, Jr. looks. It now sits on a 4x 8 sheet of plywood covered with grass carpeting. I have landscaped the yard and although it took me a long time (almost a year), it was definitely worth it.

Ginger in Springfield, IL

Saw: I love my Microlux saw. (Have 3 Dremel saws also but have a problem with belt slipping on them and are no longer readily available as they are not made anymore) I cut down a lot of strip wood working in 144 scale. It tilts which is nice, and the special attachment "The exactacizer"..or accuciser(?) from Micro Mart... is a must. About $50 but makes cuts extremely accurate. A fence can move and cause irregular cuts where this locks well and can by adjusted in thousandth of an inch with a locking slide bar. I use mine so much it has had to have the motor replaced once.

Anita McNary IGMA Artisan

Dura-Craft Tips: I have made two Dura-Craft kits. I used Elmer's wood glue and LOTS of masking tape to put them together. Here are some other things I figured out to do from one kit to the next: I sealed both sides of each plywood sheet with sanding sealer, it made sanding easier.

I made masking tape labels for the larger pieces. I grouped smaller pieces (stairway components, for example) into Ziplock bags and labeled what they were and where they went (especially for windows and doors!). I thought long and hard about which rooms I wanted for each function and then took the instruction booklet, and on the photo of the interior I wrote which room was what, identified the pieces and painted/wallpapered before assembly. I assembled the base and then "dry-fit" the exterior walls to determine placement for the second and third floors. I used a carpenter's square to keep everything square. Even then I did lots of sanding and trimming to get a fit. I didn't electrify, either. Maybe next time...

Havana (FL) Holly