Painting spindles: I too have been having problems painting or staining spindles. I have started putting straight pins in the base of the spindle, cutting off the head of the pin to form a small metal post in the spindle, then sticking the metal post in foam-core. I then have a spindle that is standing up and stable. Once it is stained or painted I cut the metal post down smaller and use it as an anchor while gluing the spindles in place. My next experiment is to try spray painting the spindles several at a time as opposed to brush and paint.

Rose in CA

Painting spindles: The instructions that came with my dollhouse kit (which has over 100 spindles), it says to use 2 sponges, put some paint on one side of each, put spindle between the 2 sponges and roll it a bit. Adjust the amount of paint and pressure as you go along. I think combine that technique with the stick pin under the spindles for drying, it should be an easier job.

iwantjunkmail

Painting spindles: I push the unpainted spindles into the open ends of corrugated cardboard and either spray paint or brush paint. I've found that if you first cut the cardboard into a curved shape, there is more space between the spindles. When the spindles are dry just turn them upside down and do the part that was held in the cardboard. I've had success with my stair railing by doing this and many can be done at the same time.

Lee from Melville, NY

Crackle finish: "As you could probably tell, crackle finish is one of my favorites to do. Unless I want the color of the raw wood to show through in the cracks I first prime the piece with Zinsar primer. I then paint the bottom coat (the color that will show through the cracks) with plain old acrylic paint. (My favorite brands of acrylic paint are "Plaid" or "Aleen's")

Once that coat is dry (I'm impatient so usually I just wait until it's barely dry to the touch) I apply the crackle medium. The brand I use is "Plaid - Folk Art Crackle Medium". I apply only a thin quick coat (the thicker the coat the larger and more crackle you will see in the end).

Again, once this is dry (in my case barely dry to the touch) I apply the top coat of color - plain old acrylic paint. This is the tricky coat. It works best for me if I apply not a thin coat but not a really thick coat either - kind of a medium coat. The important thing is that you brush that coat on with only one stroke. If you use more than one stroke you will wipe the crackle medium away and it gets gummy and just looks like mushy paint. You won't see the crackle come through until the top coat starts to dry but usually in such small pieces that's just a matter of a minute or so.

After this top coat is dry (and this time I really wait for it to dry) I apply a protective coat of varnish. I use "Aleen's Enhancers" and choose either satin or gloss finish according to the piece.

After this coat is dry I begin applying the antiquing gel (this is the shaded top coat you liked). I use "Home Decor - by Delta" and my favorite color is warm brown. I apply just a dot in the general area of where I want the antiquing to show up and then I rub with a soft cloth or my finger to shade accordingly (this is why the protective coat of varnish is important, if that top coat of acrylic paint isn't completely dry you will rub away the crackle finish). This step takes the most time and it's important to only apply a dot of the gel otherwise your entire piece will end up looking like you painted it brown.

After I'm satisfied with the results of the gel I apply two more coats of the protective varnish and I'm all done! Oh yeah - I use a flat shading paintbrush for the whole process and that seems to lay the paint down best for the crackle finish...nice and flat and spread out."

You can see examples of my crackled and aged furniture pieces on my picture trial site: http://www.PictureTrail.com/sweetpea4

Tammy Fischer

Painting checkerboard borders on mini furniture: No real tricks to this one except a steady hand. OK, paint your light base color. White for instance, then allow to dry completely. Use a hair dryer to make sure it is dry. Take a small piece of masking tape, lay it on your pant leg, press lightly and pull up to remove some of the tackiness. Cut appropriate sized strips and then cut those into equal sized squares. Apply the squares into a checker board configuration. Burnish the edges of the tape so no paint will get under the edges. Apply paint so that the area does not get soaked and paint runs under the edges. Stipple style is appropriate as in stencil work. Remove the squares of tape very carefully and enjoy.

In the worst case scenario where the miniaturist can not handle the media, print out the checks on a computer. Fix them with Krylon or matte ink fixative and decoupage them into place.

Laurie Sisson

Castle Contents:: in a castle I'd want a still-room where herbal medicines (and poisons if the owner were evil!) were created and stored, an armory, a highly secure treasury with the family jewels and chests of gold, and a solar (fancy parlor with that newfangled glass in the windows) where the lady and her attendants could relax with needlework and practice their musical skills.

Loretta

Castle Contents: I would think a castle would include an "armament" room.  A place where Armour and arms were stored and/or repaired.   Also, there would be a room near "mi-lady's" bedchamber where she would gather with her maids and they would work on various projects.   And, of course, there would be the larder where foodstuffs were kept.

Jean

Castle Contents: How about a Strong Room -- where priceless jewels, precious metals, and rare treasures are stored?   What fun to recreate that!

Anita Myers, Arnold, MD

Castle rooms: I was in a castle in Germany once.  The castle had a chapel, room of mirrors, a white and gold ball room, a long....really long hallway with many artifacts such as statues, tables of various kinds, oriental artifacts brought back from the orient,   King and Queens private separate living rooms as well as a common room for the family, Queens court room, Kings court room, Royal Court Room, His and her bedrooms, small private dining room, a large dining room for guests, All kinds of guests rooms, Game room, prison (underground), kitchens (a couple of them...one for main meals and large fireplace, one with baking ovens on opposite side of fireplace kitchen), day room for ladies in waiting, bedrooms for ladies and gentlemen of the court.  Servants quarters held bedrooms, common room, kitchen.   A room that held stuffed animals acquired through different hunts (boars, bears, deer, wild cats).   There was the Throne room, the Royal Vault which held valuables such as jewels, gold, etc. And more....there was a ballroom on every floor, very different from one another.  If a trip was made to another country, usually a whole room of furnishings was brought back and a room was filled with those souvenirs.  So, you have a lot of latitude in what you could do with a castle and it rooms.

Rhonda in Hudson, Fl

Beauty Salon Ideas:   Those great little colored building blocks for toddlers (glued together-seat, back-arms) would make a great looking "dryer" chair with a plastic champagne cork on a wire stuck in the back and bent over the chair for the DRYER itself - with an inverted squeeze top lid as the pedestal for the chair-all painted to match.  Bunka glued around the edges will give it a look of piping!  For curlers, cut different size and color straws.  For a "hot roller" box, use the smoked gray plastic cover than come on men's razors as a top and bottom - Glue a little piece of wood in the bottom and stick in tiny craft pins to hold the rollers in place-glue a string on the bottom and wrap two small pieces of wire on the other end with a small piece of electric tape to simulate a plug.   Use beads to make all sorts of fancy bottles & baubles to set on your shelves - use Velcro on a piece of painted toothpick to simulate a brush or order the vanity set from Chrysnbon (Item # CHR 2210)with combs, brushes, picture frames & more that you can paint to match.

Lauriel of Belara Beach Original Miniatures