Room by Room dollhouse They are listed at http://www.kbtoys.com   however the only ones in stock are the bathroom and kitchen.  I did a google search and found the manufacturer if you want more info. (or if others wish to see pictures).  Go to  http://www.ringsidesupplies.com/   and click on the house. This is the site for Jazwares, Inc.  "a south Florida company".  Apparently these rooms were created for the 2001 Christmas season and due to overwhelming demand are out of stock !   Are they as nice as they look in the pictures ?

Shirley in Bakersfield, CA

Room By Room Boxes: For those of you searching for the Room By Room dollhouse rooms mentioned recently, you can see them on both Amazon.com (Toys R Us) and etoys.com. You can purchase from both places but you will find quite a few are "out of stock".

These really are adorable! Wish I could think of a good reason to buy them other than a bad case of "gottahaveitis".

Reva in Loveland, Ohio

Eggery supplies: I am, literally almost, in tears, after viewing the site I just visited.

I went to google and typed in eggery supplies which took me to  http://www.eggscope.com  There, I found a mind boggling variety of findings and beads at what seemed to  be very reasonable prices. There was so much wonderful stuff that I went into catatonic overload mode. After I recover, l will go back, credit card in hand. WOW!

Linda in Leroy, OH

Smaller scale linen:   this has got to be one of the easiest ones to make yourself. **

Why don't you buy a pretty handkerchief at a garage sale; or the dollar   stores? If you can, sew a tiny hem on all 4 sides, or else use some fabric  glue and glue a tiny hem on it. The delicate nature of the fabric used in   handkerchiefs is perfect for tiny linens. You could get both the sheet and   the pillow from one handkerchief and you'd have a lovely set. Also, You could  use a man's handkerchief (they are larger)for the bottom sheet and a lady's   one that uses a more delicate fabric for the top sheet. There is iron-on  hemming tape too that you could use if you don't sew at all as well as fabric   glue.

For a coverlet, measure your bed (or mattress)and then cut out a template   from that measurement (plus an inch or two for overhang) from a piece of  light cardboard or plastic. Using a hankie or lightweight fabric scrap that   has a tiny motif  or pattern on it, and a piece of soft flannel and another  piece of plain fabric, Stack & Iron the 3 pieces of fabric one on top of the   other. Draw around the template with a sharp pencil  on the top fabric and   cut out all three fabrics at once. Make sure that the fabric is stacked this  way: right side of fabric with pattern on it, facing right side of backing   fabric, then these two fabrics are stacked on top of the flannel. Sew (or   glue) all 3 pieces together around the perimeter about a quarter inch from  the cut edges,   leaving a small opening on the last side for turning. Start  your stitching or gluing in the middle of one side, not the end, as it makes  for easier turning this way. Then, trim the edges and snip off the corners so you minimize the bulk at the edges. Reach in and turn the piece right side out so that the pretty fabric is on top, flannel in the middle and backing fabric on the back. (makes sense doesn't it ?::G::) If you reach in between the two fabrics that are facing one another right sides together and grabbing middle of opposite side with a clamp or fingers if you have tiny hands and pull gently the turning will be easy. Then using a chopstick or the end of the clamp gently push corners outward, your "sandwich" will have nice sharp points. Don't use scissors or a sharpened pencil to push out corners though, as you can poke a hole that way. Slip stitch the opening closed. (or glue it closed with fabric glue). Then use a ruler to make evenly spaced dots across the top about a half inch apart or whatever suits you, and just take a tiny stitch up and down through all three layers.   tie a square knot with the thread or floss and snip off leaving a tail . You could use regular thread doubled or embroidery floss to do this.. Zip,zip, you've got a coverlet. I would not suggest you iron it after you've turned it as it takes the "puffiness" out of it if you do.

When you put it on the bed, you might want to take a tiny stitch in the   corners to keep it the sides down or put a bit of funtak underneath on the  bed so the sides stay against the bed and don't "stick out" - using the soft   fabric helps to drape it nicely. A light silk scarf also works well for this  as well. Esp., if you own a serger and can use it for the stitching. If your   fabric sticks up anyway, you might try washing the fabric before you use it  to remove the "sizing" that they put in fabrics to keep it smooth on the   bolt. With mini's the thinner the fabric the better it drapes. You can always  starch it for ease in sewing after you've washed out the sizing as that will   still allow the draping later on.

Ruthanne

Speed control for the Dremel: A couple of years ago there was discussion on one of the lists regarding Dremel   discontinuing their variable speed control.  I was looking at a Woodcraft Supply catalog tonight and saw a router variable speed control that works on any motor that has brushes. That includes the Mototool, the Cameron drill press, the Unimat 3 and most other small equipment.  Check out http://woodcraft.com   and look for part number 142770.

Pete Boorum

Super Glues fog Acrylics: I'm a newbie myself, just found out (NOT the hard way, thank goodness) that cyanoacrylic glues (Krazy, Super, etc.) cause a permanent, white fog on   acrylic.  I was about to install "glass" in my greenhouse when Anita volunteered this tidbit on the Micro digest and I am one big "WHEW" about it.  My dh is spending many hours cutting the framing.  It would've all been wasted if we'd had to rip it all off to replace the acrylic.   Someone else on the Micro digest suggested MicroMark for a safe glue, it arrived today and my test piece is just fine!  

Chrissy

Aliphatic  glue and staining: Aliphatic Resin is just regular old yellow carpenters glue. It's great stuff, but don't try staining over it. The stain won't take and you'll end up with a blotchy mess. Pre-finishing small parts for a project might be the simplest way to obtain a clean finish, but either way- neatness counts!  Glue squeeze-out will have to be cleaned up in any event. One last note, do not stain over any surface that is to be glued (mortises, tenons, any pegs, etc).

Brian Poor, Roundwood Studio

Brass yardstick:      First may I suggest that you use stainless steel instead of brass. A  good metal shop will cut you one to size and burnish the edges for you for about the same price as just buying a good metal yardstick (See Dick Blick stock numbers below).   It will hold it's edge better than brass and not be so likely to get the kinds of oxidants on it that cause black or green marks on your work. If you still prefer brass, the following will work even better on Brass than stainless.

Whichever metal you choose, I would start an inch from one end and mark the first mark as "zero". From there I would increase every one inch to about 35 or so. Over that first inch, I would divide the space into twelfths, sixteenths or whatever. All you need to mark in fractions of an inch is the first segment. When measuring, put the nearest full inch mark at one end and then determine the fractional portions at the other end. This is how you use a standard architect's or engineer's scale.

To do your marking, paint the surface with a good enamel primer and let it cure real good. Next, scratch your marks through the paint and into the metal. Apply a strong acid solution (electronics or jewelry making shop) to deeply etch the metal. Neutralize the acid then strip the paint off. Spray paint the metal a nice black and let it dry then polish away the surface paint that is not IN the etched depths.

Now: Dick Blick along with most drafting and art supply shops sells quality metal rulers up to 36", 48" or even longer.   Dick Blick is on the web at  www.dickblick.com   The Alvin non-skid stainless steel ruler   (36") is catalog number A55632-1036 a $8.49 each. Their 36" aluminum ruler is A55430-1036 @$2.99 each. A Fairgate center finding ruler (zero in the middle and goes up on each side) 36" long is also aluminum at $10.49 (A55405-1036).

For a classy piece of shop art, you may also consider a quality varnished wood yard stick and add a brass edge. I had one for a long time that got "lost" to uninvited visitors but it had a reproduction advertisement for a very ancient hardware store where the original manufacturer's name had been sanded away. Great conversation piece.

Petitfacades

Acrylic Windows: Chrissy wrote: "just found out (NOT the hard way, thank goodness) that cyanoacrylic glues (Krazy, Super, etc.) cause a permanent, white fog on acrylic."I put this chemical reaction to good use on my log cabin windows. I took the sheet of acrylic I was going to use for windows, laid it over a drawing of my widow pane grid, marked the grid lines lightly with a marker and then pressed my fingers onto the center of each "window pane" front and back...rather like lightly pinching each pane. I then placed my windows into a large plastic throw away container ( lean them up against the sides so the air can circulate ) and squirted some superglue into the middle of the container, covered it and let my windows "fog". The glue didn't have as much effect on the areas where the oil from my fingers were so my windows now look like the corners are really old and dirty and someone just semi-swabbed the grime away from the centers in a circular motion. I then glued the window grids on and completed the windows using a different type glue.

Obviously you don't want to wash your hands before you begin pinching your windows and if you have a lot of windows, you can always ask family members and friends to pinch a pane or two.

Reva in Loveland, Ohio

Odors: I read somewhere years ago that white vinegar helps get rid of odors. I put it in a plastic cup in my workshop.  When it evaporates, I just keep adding more.  It does make a difference.

Anita...Bel Air, MD