Modge Podge: So far I have used Modge Podge twice. I used it to seal my printed paper decals used to cover the Buck Rogers toy chest in my Boys Bedroom and as a sealer for the outside of the room box itself. I glued on cardboard artwork panels cut from 1960s style model boxes and added a few printies on them to change some logos. Prior to sealing both of these, I treated the printed surfaces with spray fixative and UV spray, then applied a thin layer of Modge Podge. In both cases it sealed it all in and made a more permanent bond for the printables I had attached. And in the case of the model box art-it gave a light texture of brush marks which I liked. Here is a link to the pics (toy chest is towards the bottom): http://www.wishbooktoys. com/boys/

John Medeiros

Pill Bottle Uses: Lessee, a fabric-covered occasional table, a pedestal in a modern art gallery, a decoupage tray (lid), a stool, the seat for a vanity chair, garden stones (lid) a stand for a 1/144 diorama, picture frame(lid), tea tray (lid), garbage pail, actual modern art, legs for a modern table? I have been using film canisters with lid as portable water reservoirs, so when I haul my work space around the house on my TV tables (which I do occasionally in search of better sources of light), I don't have to worry about spillage. Also keeps sleeve or cat-related accidents from occurring.

Kim From Canada

Reducing wood thickness: To those interested, The thickness of wood can be accurately reduced by a method I have been using for some time now. Try to understand the following;

NEEDED;

The wood to be reduced in thickness etc.

A Dremel drill press

A Dremel rotary tool to fit into the drill press.

Sanding drums of various grits to go into the Dremel rotary tool.

Small "C" clamp

From a piece of wood that has a 'true side," grind out (using the sanding drums) a half circle on the "true side".

With the "C" clamp place the wood with the cut out on to the base of the drill press so that when the Dremel rotary tool is lowered the drum that has been inserted into the chuck will nest into the cutout.

CONCEPT:

The more of the drum that is nested in the cutout will have less of its surface protruding past the "true side" of the jig. That is what this piece of wood with the cutout is now called. Therefore by moving the jig so that more or less of the sanding drum surface is protruding past the cutout allows me (you)to adjust how much wood you will remove from the stock you pass along the "true side" and pass it in front of the rotating sanding drum. The sanding drum can be replaced with a router bit and the drill press can be used as a router/shaper in this configuration.

DrBob...Delray Beach, Fl

Cherry Wood.    I have planed to 1/16 th,   You have to watch the grain that is the key.   Place the wood so that is cutting with the grain. I use cherry wood a lot, I have found a way to make the wood   dark red without stain. I use  1/4th lye (buy it in any grocery store) to 3/4^th water, brush this on your wood. With a damp cloth wipe it off. The more coats you use the darker it gets. Use rubber gloves, keep out of reach of children.

Dan & Jane   Greendale WI

Nailing MDF:I have made several room boxes etc.. from MDF and have never had a problem with it splitting.   The method I use is to drill then nail using thin panel pins (3/4mm diameter, 2cm long roughly)  I drill and nail at approximately 2 inch intervals, knock the end of the nail in and fill over the top to make a flat surface if required.  I also tend to glue with wood glue (PVA) as well in order to add extra stability and fill any little gaps.

Natalie

I work with a lot of MDF,   get free pieces from local cabinet shop. I drill holes with a small bit, then one the diameter of the center of the screws.   I also use a counter sink to make a funnel shape for the screw head. I use what we have here that is called drywall screws,   they have a wider spaced thread.   I did split some of my starting projects at first until I figured out to make the holes for the screws just a little smaller than the screw.   I have made lots of cabinets and drawers for my workshop. An MDF box, with a cabinet handle and 4 casters does just fine under my workbenches.

Rhoda in Sunny Whidbey Island

Archival   cardboard: This is the first time I've posted, but I actually have something to add.   I am a fine artist and there are all kinds of great thin cardboard-type products that are acid free, archival quality, and pretty durable.   The first would be matt board, which you can get in pretty big sizes at artist supply stores and places like Michaels, as well as framing stores.   It comes in a variety of colors, so you could pick one that complemented your decorating scheme, and save yourself the trouble of painting.     Another idea would be illustration board, which has a really nice tooth (texture), can be painted or glued on without warping, really nice stuff.  Both are strong enough to glue trim to and are easily cut with a mat cutter (also available in artist supply stores).

Rigel Wood, Cincinnati, Oh

Archival thin board: Go to any frame shop or Michaels type craft store and ask for one of the following.

Bainbridge Alpha-mat

Crescent 100% Rag-mat

and some carry Truevue matboard. There are more but these are the ones that are used the most by framers. They are all acid free. You really need to ask specifically by the names I gave you. Unfortunately around here where they cater to the tourist trade, the frame shops are bad about telling you regular matboard is acid free. NO it's not. It's buffered. I've taken many a picture apart and seen the damage done by regular matboard and cardboard to artwork. It's not a pretty sight when someone has paid big bucks for a print and then had a framer either because they don't know any better which can be the case, or because they are just trying to get your money and get you out the door, use regular matboard against the print. You open it and not only has it yellowed the print paper, caused acid burns (brown spots are a telltale sign) but may even have started to break it down and make it brittle.

So now I do most my framing in miniature. I really do cut the mats (acid free) on a mat cutter, then I carefully peel the front couple of layers off. That way I have a real bevel even painting it if I want a colored bevel. I go through the exact same process in mini that I would in full size. I even paper the back and wire it. Keeps me in practice so if I move away from this area I'll still be able to get back into it.

That's why periodically I get on my soapbox about archival materials. I know what can happen. We put way too much time and work into our miniatures to have them not last for a long time.

Another thing is that matboard is very sturdy. You won't need to glue it in. If you cut it right, measure carefully here, it should slide in tight and if you want to change paper, slide it out again and change it.

Another hint with using matboard and foamcore, buy lot's of blades, biggest container of them you can afford. If it starts to drag or rag the material you're working with change it right away. Don't try to conserve where blades are concerned. Will save you lots of trouble.

Kathy in E. TN

Lightning rods:   you should be able to make lightning rods by sliding beads down a piece of wire, or even a VERY fine knitting needle, as it strikes me most rods are slightly tapered.

Dani, in Bradshaw, MD

Row of books:    I glued rows of books on pieces of balsa wood, finishing the ends that would show with a matching paper.   I put these into bookshelves that I made from some of the Michael's hutches' which had two long doors at the front.   I "glazed" the doors with the clear plastic from packaging.  I distributed the books on the shelves in a natural- looking way and put some small ornaments among them to simulate statues, urns, and bookends.  Through the "glass" doors it all looks very realistic and cost next to nothing.  

SUSAN AT THE WHITE RABBIT'S HOUSE