Needlepoint/petitpoint site, basketweave stitching: Just came across this site http://www.needlepointfun.com/welcome.htm#9a

As well as some charts and kits for dollshouse rugs it also has what seem to me some very interesting tips and comments about doing needlepoint. They advocate doing basketweave stitch the opposite way from the usual way if you are using a frame and "stabbing" rather than sewing, i.e. going from the lower left rather than the upper right.

Since I gather that most silk gauze work is done framed in mat board, do any experienced petipoint stitchers have any comments on this? I have three kits that I am looking forward to doing, including a Janet Granger footstool and a fantastic medieval lurcher of Bobbie Schoonmaker's from my dog loving daughter. I would like to do my best on them.

Wendy in Clinton, NJ

Basketweave stitch and frames for miniature needlepoint: Yes, using a frame of some sort is generally recommended for stitching on silk gauze simply because it helps to avoid stitching too tightly and pulling the finished piece out of shape. If a stitcher is experienced enough to stitch with the proper tension, a frame is not necessary. If that is the chosen option, however, then you just tape the raw edges of the gauze with masking tape to avoid snagging the thread on them. Using a frame necessitates using a "stabbing" technique, rather than a "sewing" technique, and takes twice as long to complete.

As for the basketweave stitch .... it is recommended for full size needlepoint because it is much sturdier and tolerates wear, which is necessary in pieces that are "used". When working large background areas in basketweave, a diagonal grain can be seen. Conversely, in miniature work, I recommend the Continental Stitch (worked back and forth horizontally) because wear is not an issue and no grain can be detected. It is especially important in working rugs and carpets that the stitcher uses the Continental because full size rugs are woven horizontally and you want to emulate that in your miniature work.   http://www.micro-stitchery.com

Bobbie

Eyelets:you can use acrylic paint to simulate the grommet: dab on a tiny drop of paint, smash slightly while wet, and use a needle to open a hole in the fabric. Repeat for the opposite side. It will also reinforce your fabric as a real eyelet would do. Acrylic paints come in metallic colors.

Laurie Sisson

Petit Point: I do petit point on #40 gauze, so I can let you know what works for me. I bind the edges with 1/2" masking tape. Once the edges are bound, I trace the outline onto a piece of cardboard Then, I cut out the hole about 1/4" smaller on all four sides. Then I lay the gauze on top of the cardboard, centering it over the hole. Then I tape the gauze to the cardboard, covering up the binding, but not the canvass. This holds the canvass very tightly and none have slipped yet... Doesn't Bobbie have some gorgeous things on her website?

Jonathan in Israel

Framing Stitchery: I found masking tape left a sticky residue on my silk gauze or fabric. I prefer a white plastic tape available at the hardware store, about 1/2 inch wide. I also staple the edges. You'll find with a good frame to work with, not only does your fabric stay clean, but very little, if any, blocking is needed.

Ruth

Needlepoint mats: Whenever I use silk gauze, if it is in a cardboard mat, I remove it. I lay it flat in the middle of a piece of cotton fabric that is big enough to fit in a hoop. I zigzag stitch around the silk gauze so that it is attached to cotton fabric. Then, carefully lift the gauze to separate it from the cotton and cut out the cotton fabric behind the gauze. Then insert this fabric in the hoop. I think the hoop holds the gauze tighter and I prefer this method when using a small piece of gauze. When I do a large item, I do the same thing and use the rectangular "hoop" on a stand to hold the piece while I am stitching.

Fay in St. Louis

SHINY FURNITURE: I have finally found the solution for shiny furniture which works for me. I used the Rust-Oleum spray clear top coat protective finish in MATTE. This seems to do a world of good to make that inexpensive furniture look more expensive. Other companies also have a form of this finish, but since this is available at Home Depot I thought it might be the best brand to mention.

Dolores

Popsicle stick floors: I'd stick the popsicle sticks down on the cardboard (or whatever) base with Quickgrab, as it will hold tight and not warp.Then I'd use double faced carpet tape to attach the whole thing to the dollhouse floor. If you need to lift the floor for some reason this allows you to do it (i.e. to put wiring underneath, etc

Sue Veeder

Medical miniatures: here are some medical things.
http://www.dollhouse-miniatures.com/catalog/en-us/dept_107.html

Tom & Kari

Medical miniatures: I have a lot of doctor/pharmaceutical items on my website - all in stock. http://www.spminiatures.com/doctor.htm

Carol