Cameras: For the best cost-value camera, I vote for the Sony Mavica. There are several models of varying prices, starting at about $300. The resolution is approx. 360x720. The cameras run on regular computer floppy disks, so media is quite inexpensive. You just take the photos (one floppy holds about 24 pictures) and then put the disk in your camera. I purchased one in 1996 and have taken about 3000 photos since then. The one drawback is the camera is a bit large and boxy because it has to accommodate the disk drive. For the top of the line camera, I like for the Canon G1 with the 1GB IBM micro drive. It's around $1400, but it is a 3.3 mega pixel camera which produces film-quality photos. The micro drive will hold several hundred photos which can be downloaded directly to your computer, so you can take it anywhere and not worry about running out of film. This camera is small - the size of a regular pocket camera. This one is on my wish list =) As far as editing options, it depends on how much time you want to spend...but ArcSoft PhotoStudio is an inexpensive option. The Microsoft Photo Editor included with OfficePro is not too bad either.

Whui

Imaging Software: about photo software for your computer, you may already have one for free if you use Windows 98 or maybe even WIN 95. In your accessories file is a program called IMAGING. Although I have many other imaging software, I used it to download my pictures from my digital camera. It has most of the common features found in other photo software. If you are using your pictures only for computer viewing or email you don't need to fine tune your pictures unless you need a nice photo print or intend to publish them. In the same vein, I purchased a digital camera from AOL called the Chameleon and made by LARGAN. It cost about $130 but only has a resolution of 640X480 (the resolution of most computer screens). Again it is only good for pictures on a computer or sending email. However, because of its low resolution it can store up to 128 pictures. It should be great to take on long trips where you have no access to a computer to download and you won't have to bother with other storage media. It's only a few inches square so fits in your shirt pocket. The only problem is that it's so small I've already misplaced it. I'm hoping that by saying all these nice things about it, that it will turn up.

Harriett

Paper Clay: I will give you the definitive answer on substructures for Paperclay! It depends entirely on what I'm building :-). I use a number or substructures in my work, I primarily use 1 or 2 inch rigid foam insulation board when I'm building large structures like castles and ½ inch foam core or gator foam for smaller houses. I generally use plywood when I do room boxes because of the heat generated from the lighting. In a nut shell just about any material you use for doll houses can be used as a base for Paperclay.

Rik Pierce

Search Engines: Just a little contribution on the search engines discussion. I have not read any reference to a site called "All the web" (www.alltheweb.com), so maybe it is not so popular as AltaVista or yahoo, but it is by far the best engine I've tried besides Google, both at work and for personal use. Fast and accurate. Just wanted to share it in case anybody finds it useful.

Ali from Spain

Oriental Dolls: I just ordered an Oriental lady doll kit from Dana & Gwen. It's a regular doll kit they are casting in an Oriental skin tone for me. I believe they can do it with any doll on their site. They have been wonderfully informative and accommodating. And their dolls are GORGEOUS!! I didn't see any babies, but they do have a set of little girl dolls. They also have a geisha kit (white skin in kimono with gorgeous golden threads). The site is http://www.miniatureart.com/ There is also a second site http://msatminidolls.minilists.com/projects.html with instructions and more close ups of some of the dolls.

Whui

Oriental Dolls: Janna Joseph has 2 oriental families which she has developed which would be worth looking at www.jannajosephdesigns.com - I'm getting a number of the molds (including her famous detective series)...but I also have her older series and she used to have a bust to use for hats that was a perfect oriental face. The other mold I can think of is one of Joy Parker's from Swallowhill Dolls. They are few and far between.

Ana

FORMICA SCRAPS: I discovered from a friend that some kitchen cabinet stores carry a product called Corian that can easily be cut with a Dremel table saw. It comes in many different shades of colors and is solid color through and through. My friend actually did some miniature spindles so that I could create front steps with a granite railing and balusters. You can sand it and polish it to a high luster with steel wool. And just like the Formica, you can normally get some good sized "chunks" for free out of the scrap bin at the store.

George - Cedar Rapids, IA

Formica: I have removed the writing with a cotton ball soaked in alcohol. For the rare few that does not work on, nail polish remover(esp. the real acetone stuff) worked. Easy!

Debbie DAS in Syracuse

Formica: Tape with masking tape on both sides of the Formica where you are going to cut, this will stop it from chipping.

Karen from Dubai

Cutting Formica: I use my 4" Dremel table saw with a carbide blade to cut Formica (also acrylic sheeting). Put masking tape on top & bottom of where you want to cut, prevents chipping.
I get scraps of Formica at a local custom cabinet shop. I've picked up four or five 2 ft X 3 ft sheets and the man will say "just a dollar or two". I've used it for flooring in kitchens and bathrooms. Also for kitchen counter tops. To cut out the opening for a sink on the counter top, I use my small scroll saw.

Ruth