Miniature Socks: http://www.teleport.com/~noelvn/socks/2-needle_style.html These are my favourite cause I can't knit with 4 needles to save my life. But there is one pattern there for mini socks, only on two needles...and using our small needles ... well, you know the rest.

Joy in Pointe Claire

Cross Stitch: Paula Vaughan, does have her own web site http://paulav.com. It shows some beautiful work and also has a listing of all available cross stitch designs. The one that was mentioned is called Through a Mothers eyes, I have the kit and it would make a great mini scene. There is also a matching one called Through a Fathers eyes. One of the newest designs is called Granny's Attic, there is a picture on the web site - two girls playing dress up with granny looking on smiling in the mirror. If I can ever work out how to do the mirror bit I would love to do one of these scenes in a room box. There is also another cross stitch site called http://debbiepatrickdesigns.com These are all real old American Victorian and Queen Anne houses that have been replicated into cross stitch. I have just bought five of the designs with the intention of eventually having a separate room for my houses with the cross stitch pictures on the walls. A warning though when you see some of the houses - I now want a dollhouse like some of the real ones LOL Actual prints are also available from both sites so if this type of house is your thing and you don't like to do cross-stitch you can still have some beautiful pictures. I have no connection to either of these people (I wish!!) but the services are wonderful, postage minimal (as an overseas buyer) and have had many happy and lustful hours looking at them.

Yvonne

Silk Gauze Needlepoint: a couple of things regarding wee mini needlepoint. First, notice that a single ply of floss is not the same thickness as a single ply of silk. Well. At least not if we're talking about either DMC or Anchor floss and Au Ver a Soie stranded silk-those are the products I'm familiar with. The single ply of silk is somewhat fatter than the floss. I have done quite a bit with 40 and 44 mesh; beyond that my eyes will not cooperate, even with a Dazur lamp! One ply silk seems just right to me on the 40 and 44 mesh; perhaps as you go from there to 50 and more, you'll find the single of floss is just right. You do have to experiment and do what works. Secondly, remember to stitch in such an order that your needle always (or almost always) comes up in an EMPTY hole; that's one of several reasons why basket weave is preferred over Continental stitch. I suspect that would solve your problem with the nubbies. Your choice of a #28 tapestry needle sounds about right-#26 would be okay too.

MCSTITCHIN

Table Runner: Iron your fabric onto lightweight iron-on interfacing before you cut it out, and it won't fray as badly. This will have the added benefit of keeping it flat. You may also want to glue Bunka or embroidery floss to the edges to finish it and provide a bit of trim.

Maura Bass

Fraying Fabric: Tracy asked about how to keep cut fabric from fraying. I always advise my students to coat the back of the fabric with a thin layer of tacky glue and let it dry before cutting. That should do the trick! Test a spot first to make sure that it doesn't soak through. After it is coated, you can even cut it with a straight edge and new, sharp single edge razor blade!

Alice Zinn

Fraying Fabric: We of the kite making hobby use a hot knife to cut kite material that is woven; such as rip-stop-nylon. These "knives" come as attachments to soldering pencils (irons). It cuts and seals as it is moved along the material. I do not know if it would work on natural fibers but its great on synthetics.

DrBob

Pillows: What are your opinions on sewing? You could get some smallish print leopard/tiger/zebra print fabric, and cut two squares out of it that are ¼ inch larger all the way around than you want the pillow to be. Then fold over the edges to 1/4 inch, iron to make a crease. Pin the two pieces wrong sides together, and blind stitch the edges. I like to start in the middle of one edge, so I won't have to fiddle with an imperfect corner. Go all the way around the edge back and leave a hole for stuffing the pillow. Stuff with polyfil (quilt batting, even seeds or rice). If using the batting, use a pair of tweezers to stuff, getting into the corners. This method is handy when making a needlepoint pillow as well.

Kim From Canada

Crochet: do you have the Dover book Miniature Crochet and Knitting for Dollhouses? If you don't have a local bookstore, they have a web site now, www.doverpublications.com; I found it under Crafts in the needlework section. Dover has lots of very reasonable books for miniers. I don't have the patience for crochet myself, but got the book and asked my mother to make a bedspread, which is magnificent.

Loretta Sniarowski

Crochet: Do you know the book by Venus Dodge called Dolls' House Needlecrafts? It is very nice. There are knitting, patchwork and other needle crafts in it but also some very nice crochet patterns for cushions, blankets, doilies, afghans and some house wares too. The book is very nice with lovely photo's of miniature scenes. It was published by David and Charles. I think you will be able to see the book on the http://www.Dollshouseworld.com site. It will be in the bookshop. There are also some nice pattern books on the site http://www.hankypanky.com

Marianne

Crochet: Try Barbie patterns -- you can adapt patterns by using a size 10 hook (that is in American, it is 1.25 Canadian, and 5 1/2 British) and size 60 crochet cotton to reduce a pattern down to a 1" scale doll. Also, Dollhouse Miniatures has done a couple of patterns -- wedding gown in June 1998, and a layette set in the January 2001 issue.

Kim