Studs in Houses: I have built several structures in the way you mentioned, with studs, 1/16" plywood for the walls, wiring run inside the walls etc. Makes for an extremely lightweight house. I learned this method from Keith Long, who sometimes teaches classes at the Gulf South show in New Orleans. Most of the houses are in 1/2" scale, though the first one we did was 1" and I have built an oversize roombox in 1" this way.

Beth, In A Miniature Manor

Building Greenleaf kits.

Sealing the pieces - I know people say it helps prevent warping of the big pieces when you paint them but I don't think it's a tragedy not to seal them. You may want to seal the small trim pieces IF you plan on spray painting them, which makes faster work, especially with all the window trim. The wood will suck up so much paint if you don't seal them you'll need about 5 coats to cover it! BUT if you're going to paint the pieces by hand using a thickly applied coat of paint, I say the heck with sealing.

DO NOT punch out the pieces till you're going to use them! Leave them in the sheets! I learned this the hard way. Sounds obvious I guess but I must think I am "special".

The die cut luan is a pain. Punch out carefully. I had some pieces that just weren't punched all the way through so I am sure you will too. I had my hubby get them out with a Dremel (I am afraid of it) and a hacksaw. But don't despair if you break a piece you can glue it or use spackle or putty to fix it. If you want a super final finish you'll want to use spackle or putty to smooth out the edges of the pieces; this is due to the poor quality of the luan.

Are you electrifying? This will change the whole way you build the house and their instructions will be useless. This will also affect how you wallpaper, which is tricky in itself with these houses - some of it must be added before assembly on certain parts, like bay windows and towers, or eaves, 'cause you'll never get your hands in there after it's glued together! PLAN - go slow!

I also recommend, if you can stand the wait, to put the house shell (walls and floors) together in one "spurt" of work and not to do a little at a time (like on Thanksgiving break!) and then leave it for weeks. You need to get the whole thing together and clamp it (I used old tights tied around the walls) to make sure it all fits and stays and doesn't warp or separate.

Fit all the pieces before gluing! You will have to make adjustments! The parts are supposed to fit but they don't sometimes. I used a wire-snipping pliers to "snip" the wood, usually the tabs had to be trimmed a wee bit. Because of this you want to avoid wallpapering or painting over the tabs, they won't fit. Don't go mental - paint can be sanded off, I'm not suggesting you tape off all the little tabs when you paint!

And remember - boo boos with fitting, gluing or wallpaper or flooring can be hidden with baseboards, crown moldings, wainscoting, etc. Oh watch out for splinters - keep tweezers handy.

Karyn

Mini Hold Remover: I use a steel tool designed to remove ear wax. It has a small metal loop at one end and a tiny metal cup at the other. It is the best thing I've ever found for removing Mini Hold from the container. The loop will shave a small sliver and the cup will scoop a perfect ball.

Becky

Converting a Dremel to a router: This is a really easy task. All you need is the #330 router attachment from Dremel and a set of the router bits. If you want to make moldings, etc., you might also look at the Dremel 231 shaper/router table. The difference is you move the router over the work and you move the work over the shaper table. Both can be found in the Dremel display of any good tool department (Home Depot, Lowes, Wal-Mart, etc.)

Dave

Miniature Quilts: Someone asked about making 1/12 scale quilts. I have a book by Dinah Travis called "The Complete Miniature Quilt Book" publ. Krause Publications in Iola, WI, ISBN 0-87341-595-7 It gives patterns and instructions for a couple of dozen dh-sized quilts. Also tells you, as an aside, how to make beds and bedding, and has pictures of them in the author's own dh. I was happy to pay Cdn$30 for it several months ago, and saw a bunch at Chapters last week with the bargain books at $6! Ah well. It's a lovely book, and instructions are very clear.

Kay in Ottowa, Canada

Linseed Oil: Oil paints today are pigment ground in linseed oil which is actually the cause of your slow drying - linseed oil can stay semi-dry for years causing rotting canvases etc. when it seeps through to the canvas or linen of a painting. I would try dry pigment in the commercial stain , and if you still need it and can get it, a bit of Japan Drier. Stay clear of Linseed oil, boiled or otherwise.

Ana

Linseed Oil: Linseed oil is a polymerizing oil which means it cures without solvent evaporation. I use the urethane filled polymerizing oils which are easier and more durable. My favorite is Watco which I have used by the gallon on full scale furniture and I use occasionally on cherry miniatures if I want a rich reddish brown finish without staining.

Pete Boorum

Textured Ceilings: Here is what I do. For the rough, pebble texture, I just add fine sand to white paint. If you want a texture with sparkles, use a bit less sand and after it is applied, spread some sparkly stuff on top while the paint is still wet. Most will fall off, but what remains will sparkle. Back in the days of lath & plaster, we had a ceilings with texture added by swirling a comb-like tool to make circular patterns or (believe it or not) sponges or crumpled newspaper to make a random texture. I have no suggestion for the circular pattern other than to cut a comb down and using it for the swirl. The random textures are easier. I have done it this way: Add a little baby powder to thicken some white paint and apply it to the ceiling. Use crumpled tissue to make the texture. Of course, after all that, you will have to turn the house right side up or roll over yourself, depending on the size of the house.

Dave, Bradenton, FL

Magic Brik: I shall never be without it when working in the dollhouse sized projects. I have never had a problem. Each time I use it, I must get over the terror of the total commitment of adding the mask, mixing and applying the "mud", and removing the mask. As you peel off the mask, you may have some rough edges arise. They are easily removed. It always works. I use it for brick foundations, slate entries to houses, rock chimneys, and, even without the masks, as textured items such as walkways and stucco. In whatever usage I apply Magic Brik, I always seal it with a good water based sealer.

Dave, Bradenton, FL

Textured Ceilings: A mixture of Plaster-of-Paris and latex paint make a good "plaster" (and stucco). Prime the ceiling with the color you want and then use the same color to mix with the P of P. Play with the mixture first - just a teaspoon full of plaster on a paper plate and dribble in the paint. Keep the mixture thin and practice on a piece of primed scrap wood to get the texture you want.

Jon