Wilderness Lodge: I'm thinking log walls, maybe some places where logs cross and jut into the room (for a large "hall"), big stone fireplace with raised hearth (for sitting on to warm snow-frosted buns), benches at a long table, rather than chairs, canoe paddles (for use or for decoration, crossed on the wall like swords), rubber boots, coats, winter woollies hanging on pegs (or swim wear, depending on season), stuffed animals, mounted deer heads (if you're into that), snow shoes (use same as canoe paddles - - use or decor), Navajo/Indian blankets, big baskets for fireplace logs (or a niche in the fireplace wall), native art, hanging "wagon wheel" chandeliers!

Catherine from Toronto

Carved Toothpicks: I have the carved toothpicks on my web site, as well as a lot of other do-it-yourself type supplies. You wouldn't believe all the things my customers use the carved toothpicks for. They're very inexpensive and quite versatile. These are the wooden ones with a small bit of carving at the top. If you live near a Cracker Barrel restaurant, they have them there. I carry them on my site for those who don't have easy access to them. Here's a few ideas and hopefully someone will post more:

- They are used for bed posts for 1:48 scale 4-poster beds.
- People use them for handles for parasols.
- Some cut them off just under the carved part and use them for pepper mills or salt & pepper shakers in 1:12 scale.
- They can also be used for 1:12 scale old fashioned clothespins (the kind without the spring). That can be a bit tricky because you have to be very careful when splitting them lengthwise after you cut them off short.
- I've seen people make little Christmas nutcrackers or tiny people out of them for watch case scenes.
- hat stands for 1:144 scale hats?!

There are other fancy carved cocktail picks out there that miniaturists use, but they are more like a two-pronged fork. There's also toothpicks with cellophane frills, but I don't know what use they'd have in mini. The toothpicks are under Misc. Tools & DIY supplies/Other Neat Stuff at: http://www.minikitz.com (click on online catalog).

Debbie Jones

Pirate's Pub: Aaaarrrgh and ahoy there, me little lovely, Annie W. Now you're talkin' somethin' rather fun there, you are, when you get to talkin' about me fav' rite hang-out. Ooh! I shouldn't use that word "hang-out". Me best friend just got his neck stretched just a couple weeks ago. I guess you could say the pubs HIS favorite HAUNT now, eh? Heh. Heh. Well, now, about that pub. It wouldn't be a true pirate's pub without a beautiful serving wench, now, would it? She's hanging out (if you catch my drift) by the bar. (Sorry, t' offend, you more squeamish folks, but this here's a PIRATE den, y'know!) Also, needs a big stone fireplace with a rip roarin' fire to take the chill out of a seafarer's bones.

T'would be a dimly lit room, methinks - none too many candles burning.  Don't want none of them revenoor types coming in and seein' the clientele too clearly, now, would ya? And if you have the time and patience, having a hidden/secret passageway where the guests could slip out the back way is also good. Now, this here pub is below grade, so to speak, so the lower walls of the room are foundation stones. The floor is dark slate (spilled ale won't hurt a thing on that kind of floor, ya know!)

Above the stone walls are dark wood and timbers. Very dark. Very smokey. Oh. and there's quite a few dark smudges on that stone floor from a few too many chaws bein' spat on it. There's a spittoon over in the corner, but pshaw! That's too far to walk to unload a plug. Just lean over and let 'er drop on the floor beside ya. No body cares at this place.

I see a picture of John Paul Jones (or some other famous admiral) hanging on the wall and not too well beloved by the clientele, neither, nosiree. I see some dried tomatoes that have been flung at it or a hand-drawn moustache that someone has drawn over the painting. Then there's that harpoon on the wall. Some folks claim it was THE harpoon that was used on Moby Dick. He spat it up on the deck of a sailing ship a couple months after Ahab went down in the briney deep with him.

There's that ship's wheel from the ship that went down near Nag's Head. (What a great haul we pirate's made on THAT ship!) Over along the one wall, I see some rope rigging (actually, there's lots of ropes wrapped around things in the room). Behind the bar are some big, wooden casks. One is wine, another is ale. Both have wooden taps in them.

There's a poker table with cards laid out on it. Looks like somebody's been cheatin' 'cause there's two ace of spades showin' on the table. Oh, I think somebody noticed, 'cause there's a knife stuck in the one ace and it's pinned to the table by the knife, and the money's kind of strewn around on the table. Looks like the fight may have gone out into the street. The door's open and daylight is kinda pourin' in through the doorway. By the way. do you want me to tell you about how the scene looked BEFORE or AFTER the brawl? If it was afterward, you could have fun taking out your frustration on them there dinky, little chairs and tables, there'd be a heap of broken glass, broken beer mugs and bottles strewn around the floor, and that picture of "the admiral?" Well, he's tipped all cock-eyed, and about to fall off the wall.

G. Held

Rotozip: Hi, I use the Rotozip a lot!

1. It's Dangerous!!! Use much caution!
2. It needs a guide to keep it under control. A fence clamped is fine.
3. If you blink it will take you to Chicago in a heartbeat. . (it cuts smoothly, easily and with very little muscle- and FAST!!)
4. Use it only in a Clockwise motion. The other way will cause it to leap unexpectedly into your arm or leg or some other unhappy place.
5. Be sure when finished cutting that you instantly shut it off. Wait until it stops rotating before laying it down.
6. Wear ear protection, it's very loud, Very fast, very high RPM.

I suggest you do a short demo at the hardware before committing yourself to the purchase - It's simply a smaller version of a router... and not as versatile

Judie - Daytona Beach, FL

Power tools. I use a full-sized scroll saw (jig saw) made by Excalibur, a Canadian company but I use table saws meant for miniatures. I do have a full sized table saw but it scares the devil out of me. I use a small lathe but not as often as I should. I have more than one drill press which are used for routing more than for drilling. All the carving is done using a hobby knife although I have several chisels and gouges made specifically for miniatures. I do this so I can show people how to use the knife because everyone does not have a selection of these chisels. In addition to the knife I use riffler files as shown in the article. Thank you for your favorable comments.

June in London Ontario Canada

Dremel jigsaw: I bought one 20 years ago when it was the only thing affordable to me, and I managed...but it wasn't the best experience. Lots of vibration, saw blades breaking, lack of power, single speed, etc. (Maybe the current model is better, I haven't had a chance to see it.) So, with my first profits from my minis business, I invested in a Delta/Rockwell scroll saw with digital readout variable speed, dust blower, etc. It is on a floor stand and it is HEAVY - no vibrations when using this one! I have seen the same saws offered at half the price I paid for it, I bought mine 15 years ago and like other technology, the prices have come down. I have also seen the Hawk and Excalibre at fairs and they seem to be a good product too. My thoughts on tools: Always buy the best quality product you can possibly afford. It will save you money in the long run because you won't have to replace it or upgrade like you do with the cheap stuff. Same goes for the Dremel table saw. Had one, got rid of it. It was cheap & lightweight and lacking in power, and I can do the same stuff on my full size table saw or with other tools. My sister in law bought one from Micromark (Jarmac? not sure....) that seems to be a lot better quality.

Bonnie Gibson - Tucson, Arizona

Scroll or Jig Saw: Make sure you get one that uses the standard 5 inch pinless blades (same as a jeweler's saw). This gives you a wide variety of inexpensive blades.

Tom & Kari

Gorilla Glue: I couldn't resist the temptation to comment on Gorilla Glue. Pam got me some for Christmas a year ago. When I asked her why, she said since I had some of every other wood glue in the world I should have this, too. Sorry to say, I haven't figured out how to use it in miniatures.

My friends who turn segmented bowls on the lathe, full scale, love this product because the pieces of wood glued up don't ever slide or creep like PVA white or yellow glues. Gorilla Glue could be useful in some cabinet work because it has a long set time which is great if you need to line things up and use clamps. The facts that it moisture cures and is dark in color could help or hinder depending upon the situation. If anyone comes up with a mini- application I would love to hear.

Pam and Pete Boorum

Project Ideas for Hospital Stay: I go to a lot of wrestling and cycling meets where we sit around for hours waiting for our sons to compete. Mini projects I have on the go:

- -crazy quilts. With each piece sewn by hand, it takes a while. Also you don't need large pieces of materials to lug around. I usually have several on the go at the same time.
- -needlepoint rug: It's taken ages! Partly because I've lost interest.
- -bits of Sculpy clay. I'm not very good with this, so I have a blob and play with it and once in a while i come up with something that is actually worth keeping!

Laura

Transfer Method, as a hint in del Prado:

1/ Select clipping and cut out, leaving a 1/2 inch border.
2/ Tape the edge of the clipping to a flat surface and paint the transfer emulsion onto the right side in 6 to 8 coats, allowing each coat to dry before applying the next. Thin coats dry almost instantly and give a much finer finish. Apply about three thin coats of emulsion in three or four sittings. If the picture starts to fog don't apply any further coats. Clean brush in warm water.
3/ Allow the transfer to cure for a full Two hours.
4/ Soak for a further two hours in warm water, then remove the backing by gently rubbing it with your finger.
5/ Your finished transfer should be almost transparent with no dried paper on the back-if there is, re-soak.
6/ Carefully trim the transfer with manicure scissors. Using the emulsion as glue, stick your finished transfer where you want it.

Picture this and decal-it: I have listened to all the talk about the picture transfer liquid and decals and I think you are getting very confused. First-- Picture This does NOT create a decal. It adheres the photocopy ink to the shirt and after it sets, you rub off the paper. Then you seal the image on the shirt with a topcoat. That is what any "fabric transfer" does.

The decal making is done by spreading the liquid on top of a photocopy (yes, you can use a magazine, but all magazine inks do not work). The photocopy ink adheres to the liquid as it dries. You can then rub off the paper, and you will have a rubbery piece with the picture on it. That piece is then glued to a display piece. I have seen very little of this on the market in the last few years. You can also use clear fingernail polish. I have used this medium with poems, lifting off the black ink and then gluing the decal onto a oil-drilling core that is sliced into display pieces.

Remember, on Picture this, anything white will show the color of the shirt and on the decal makers, anything white will be transparent and when glued down will show the color of your display piece. But they do different things.

Phyllis