DREMEL TUTORIAL; Part 1

A tool is only an aide to assist you in doing the work you intend to do. It is supposed to save time and effort, nothing more. How you know and handle the tool will determine the result.

The Dremel Tool Company makes a variety of tools all of which are very good for their specific purpose. But there are a few that can be used in the vast majority of construction in our hobby of miniatures. Like the all American peanut butter, which is so basic as every parent and child knows; but when you become innovative and put the peanut butter between two pieces of chocolate you have created a whole new dimension. It is the same with some of the Dremel tools. Therefore I will concentrate on what I think is the basic tools and get a bit innovative. It may not be as good as peanut butter between chocolate but then again everyones taste is different.

To be discussed;

Moto tools; variable and one speed.

Flex shaft.

Scroll saw.

Accessories.

It is my personal preference; I have used the above equipment almost extensively and with some variations (tips; jigs and hints) I have used them to the exclusion of all the others. At this time I would suggest everyone interested log onto <Dremel .com> and request a catalogue. It is free. This way you will have a picture and  explanation of the item I may be discussing.

I will intentionally try to avoid the use of Item #'s to lessen confusion.  Item #'s can be found in the catalog.

As I complete each section I will post it. I might suggest you print it so you can read and look at an item in the catalog at the same time. Or if you own the piece of equipment I am talking about you can handle or (your choice); caress it. I do.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL.

Glue gun:    the glue sticks for glue guns come in at least two heat ranges. That may be why results vary from person to person. A hot store window or a hot car will melt the glue of even the higher heat range glue sticks, I have watched it happen. If you still have the choice, why take the chance?

Barb Jones

Glues: And speaking of glue, I now import Aliphetic and Super Aliphetic glues which are terrific for putting houses together when you are also nailing or using clamps. They have some tackiness, fill gaps and when you do models they can take a stain. They were specially designed for the thin, tab construction houses like Greenleaf or Corona.

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville

My secret to a permanent shingled roof is to use Quick Grab which should be used sparingly. I work with enough for 5-6 shingles at a time, because the glue sets up fast and sometimes the phone rings.

At first when I started doing houses for others I used Liquid Nails in a caulk gun. It was a bit messy but I learned quickly to control it. However, when I was out of it 2 years later I used Quick Grab, and I haven't gone back. I work fast and don't want to worry about shingles sliding or coming loose later. I've repaired child damaged roofs done with glue guns. For that I'm thankful, because the shingles are usually loose and can be pulled out or I can loosen them with a hair dryer. Those houses done with glue guns that have been stored in attics also tend to wilt. Quick Grab costs more, but it's worth it.

Deanna from beautiful downtown Thiensville

Repairing resin: I use silicon to glue resin.  Use all you want as the excess will readily peel off when it's dry.

Carol, S P Miniatures

Repairing resin: Cathy asked for the best glue for repairing resin figures etc.   I've found that Quick Grab works the best on resin for me.

Alice Zinn- Pt. St. Lucie FL

Repairing resin:   I use super glue gel.   (I like the gel because it doesn't run - and I don't end up with my fingers glued together!!)   

Patty Johnson

For Art Deco Interiors: if you're interested in the glitziest, high-end version, go to the library and check the catalog for back issues of Architectural Digest. It ran a profusely illustrated feature on the restoration of Mar-a-Lago when Trump bought it several years ago (sorry, don't recall specific issue/date). Practically a life-scale version of Moore's fairy castle! Also, Dover Publishing has a couple of books of water colors of some more modest interiors; check the library again.

Loretta.Sniarowski

Deco overstuffed furniture: if you like do-it-yourself and can find a copy of Joan McElroy's Dollhouse Furniture Book, she has patterns for an overstuffed sofa and arm chair. If you want ready-made, check the ads in DHM or MC, because a company called Carlisle something (Creations? Connection?) in Iowa specializes in these styles. Don't recall if they have a web site, but the ad has the snail address.

Loretta.Sniarowski

Tree Stuff: I think the trees in the railroad shop are too small. Wood products makes some nice "flowering" trees that are about 10" tall. I have some, but they're not on my website yet and the people from Wood Products will be away for about a month. I think these are real branches of trees because they have an odor that smells like some sort of preservative. I air them before shipping but find that the odor never seems to go away as I've used them in my own houses and after a year or so they still have an odor. It's not unpleasant, it's just there. If you want to show her a picture of the tree I have one shown in the front of my dollhouse. The bottom picture on this page has a good image of the tree. http://www.spminiatures.com/house/mainfront.html

Here's a sort of tip. I have mentioned previously that I put my dollhouses on plywood over cheap tables bought at office supply places. The plywood serves many purposes the main one being if we ever moved (heaven forbid), the houses would be fairly easy to move on the plywood (she says with great confidence). It's also good for landscaping and for making the surface area larger as the plywood is larger than the tables. The *^&%* trees kept falling down so I finally bolted them to the plywood by putting a screw from the bottom of the plywood into the tree bottom. Now a hurricane won't bring those trees down.

Carol