Cleaning sanding disks: If you don't want to or can't buy the product to unload the sanding disks or belts, you can use an old shoe with a rubber sole. That was a tip in a woodworkers magazine many years ago, I tried it and it works.

Linda Master

Unsticking ones self from Super Glue: Keep a bottle of acetone (nail varnish remover) around, plus some cotton swabs (q-tips or something equal). I believe there may be a desticker product out there now as well that crazy glue puts out. If you get your fingers stuck it is the first impulse to rip them apart -- resist this impulse, as you could literally rip skin off one of your digits. Dab the area with the acetone, and be patient while it works, you may have to dab it for awhile. It will eventually dissolve the bond, or at least soften it enough that you can extricate yourself from the sticky situation;). Your fingers may feel a bit dry and scaly for awhile, but it is better than a gaping wound.

Word of warning -- if you find yourself with a finger stuck on your eyelid, anywhere on your face, etc., GO TO THE DOCTOR. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO UNSTICK YOURSELF. You could do serious damage. Don't worry about embarrassment, it is fleeting and one day you will laugh instead of cringe, but a ripped surface that needs stitches or surgical intervention will have evidence for a very long time, and we don't want acetone getting anywhere near the eyes.

Kim (dire warnings a specialty) From Canada

Unsticking Fingers - Cyanoacrylate Glues: For removing the cynoacrylate glues I recommend Z-7 Debonder which you can get at most any place that sells the glue. It will remove it from skin, work surfaces etc. and is odorless...unlike the nail polish remover. It does contain acetone but they have managed to deodorize it.

Sally Hoffman

Removing cynoacrylate glues: Added by george Sally's Husband DO NOT USE Z-7 Debonder, nail polish remover or ANY other remover to REMOVE FROM EYES, LIDS ETC..... GET PROFESSIONAL HELP IMMEDIATELY....... When using any remover follow ALL INSTRUCTIONS IMPLICITLY....... SAFETY FIRST ALWAYS;

George Hoffman

Super Glued fingers: I've done it and I was ready to just leave the crystal bead, my thumb and fore finger stuck until it it came apart on it's own. Nothing worked and I tried so many things my fingers were sore!. I will not use super glue without my bottle of "Kwick-fix super glue remover" on my table, ready to be used. You can get this at some craft or hardware stores. I also admit to being stuck to-gether more than once.

Helen, San Di

Super Glued fingers! There is a superglue that is finger friendly, just look on the pkg. for the finger friendly kind, one of which is Quik tite in the gel, I am not sure about the non gel kind.

Sylvia in Big D

Super-glued fingers: I too have superglued my fingers together a few times. I found the best way to unstick them was to rub lots of washing-up liquid on them and run them under the tap, whilst gently working the handle of a teaspoon between them. I suppose it would make sense to get some debonder though..... I have learnt though, through experience, that if I get any superglue on my fingers, if I plunge them quickly into my jar of water I have to hand for when I'm painting, it doesn't stick. That only works of course, if I know when I've spilt glue onto myself.

Annie

Super Glued fingers! In the past when I have managed to glue my fingers together with Super Glue I have used one of three products.
[1] Debonder........sold in 1.5 to 2 ounce bottles in hobby or Railroad supply stores. Made to use with Zap-A-Gap and other cryocylanate type glues. Learned about this one when I first took a Brooke Tucker class. Expensive but worth keeping on hand.
[2] Acetone........available in the paint section of hardware stores. This the straight 100 proof type not diluted as in polish remover.
[3] Polish Remover with acetone base............still available in drugstores and beauty supply stores. Have to read the label to be sure that it says with acetone.
[4] When ALL else FAILS it's time for a trip to the hospital ER and "a bit of old fashioned doctoring".
Start with the polish remover first it's the weakest form of acetone. If that doesn't work try the Debonder which should work. As a last resort try the straight acetone.

REMEMBER:
[1] To thoroughly wash hands with soap and water after using any of these products as the skin does absorb a certain amount of them. Repeat at least three times to be sure of removing all traces. Your hands may feel "dried out" but avoid using creams for at least 12 hours to allow all the removal product to ventilate out of skin.
[2] Keep the products close by when working with Super Glue. The glue sets up too quickly to be looking for them "after the fact".

Patricia / Redwood City, CA

Super glue, zap a gap: With all the talk about super glue and getting stuck I thought I would mention another problem with it. I have been making dolls and miniature dolls for about 16 yrs. Have always used zap a gap to attach the pipe cleaner armatures to the porcelain and to glue other non porous surfaces. No problems for a very long time. Then about 3 years ago I started to get "spring time allergies" or so I thought. Seems like I always had sinus problems before a show or class. Well, it took quite awhile to figure out I had developed a sensitivity to the zap a gap fumes! Swells the sinus to 10 times natural size (well, ok, this is a rough figure).

Jill Castoral

working with "cyno" glues: Here is a tip when you are using those pesky glues....

Take a small mirror --use the top half of an old compact-- place a drop or two of the "cyno" glue on the surface of the mirror glass, then using a large headed pin pick up a drop of glue and place the glue carefully on the surface you are gluing. You won't get the glue on you as readily and can apply it easily to the area you want to glue.

Also I believe Micro-Mark carries these glues and debonders, perhaps a bit more expensive than other sources but the do have them available.

Micro-Mark's address is: 340 Snyder Avenue Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922-1595

Sally Hoffman