Real Glass Windows: I agree with Mel when he says thin glass isn't necessary for windows. Picture frame glass is perfectly convincing in a dollhouse, the eye just doesn't pick up on the thickness. Routing a groove in small stock to accommodate the glass is tricky but possible if you have a Dremel shaper table and a cutting bit the diameter of the thickness of the glass. Once you set up for the job, though, rout all the stiles you'll ever need plus an extra foot or two because you'll never achieve those exact dimensions again and the smallest difference will throw your measurements outta whack. I say go for the glass.

Mary Kelly

Real Glass Windows: I have micro glass in all my windows -- once it's in the window, I think it's tough enough. Lawbre sells it under their "Architectural Etcetera" partnership. They bought the rights to the Derek Perkins' fireplaces, windows, doors, and misc. architectural elements.
http://www.lawbreetc.com/aetc

Debora Biggers

Real Glass Windows: When Compass used to build dollhouses, they used glass in the high-end ones. The major problem is finding glass of the correct thickness. Real glass is about 3/32" to 1/8" thick. This means about 1/96" in scale (.010"). This is too thin for most practical purposes. The thinest commercially available glass I have found in about .024" to .032" thick; it is called 6 oz. glass. The next thinnest (.036" to .044") is called micro glass. Picture framing glass is .070" to .078" thick. Since most commercial dollhouse windows are designed for .030" to .040" thick plastic, you need either 6 oz. or micro glass.

I and the person that took over Dean Jenson's business - (I don't remember the name, but I'm sure Dean would be happy to supply it), both sell thin glass. I have 6 oz. glass, not sure what the other is.

You do really need a special cutter for this, because it is VERY fragile. I really doesn't add much weight to the dollhouse, because it is so thin. This glass is thin enough that it even works for the doors in a china hutch.

Tom & Kari

WINDOW GLASS - Since I design and build custom houses, roomboxes and architectural components, I have used real glass where requested. I am able to buy glass that is .030" thick and I mount it in window and door jambs that I have grooved with a 1/32" slotting saw or a 1/32" end mill.

I also use .030" thick acrylic for windows and doors using the same mounting technique.

Garry Cosine

Sun Bonnet: Here is a very, very easy way to make a bonnet (it's how we made them in grade school for ourselves, out of construction paper). Try it out of paper first - if you use cloth for the final ones, you might want to stiffen the fabric a little first (I think colored paper would be fine, though, for bonnets so small). Your piece of paper/cloth should measure about 2" by 1.5" (after you get the technique it'll be easier to figure out sizing). Lay it flat the long way across, and measure it into thirds. At each third point, cut a slit from the bottom up, about 1/2 way up (that's 2 cuts total).

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Grace

Mini Bow Maker: Bow Maker, you can make one out of toothpicks.

You will need:

- 6 six tooth picks
- masking tape

Cut a strip of tape, lay it out flat. Lay the six toothpicks next to each other. The two outer ones should be at least 1 1/2 inches above the others.

Paulette

Making a tree: I love making trees almost as much as my dolls. I take a 1" diameter dowel and attach it to a circle of mat board by drilling a hole in the center of the dowel and circle and screwing a flat-backed screw from the bottom. I take my Dremel and drill holes on an angle at various points on the dowels.

Then take a bunch of German Statice (this is a dried floral found at any craft supply store for about 2.98 a bunch) Insert the stems of the statice onto the slotted holes on an angle that pleases the eye. I use Quik Grab to glue them securely. Add as many as you like to get the effect to want. Let dry.

Next take a mixture of shredded Styrofoam, sawdust and Woodland Scenic foliage and place it into a Plastic trash bag. Mix vigorously while singing your *happy dance song*.

Now take your tree outdoors and spray it with a spray adhesive...just the foliage if you can. You may want to wrap the trunk with saran wrap before you start. Anyway, after you have sprayed the foliage, hold it upside down inside your bag of *stuff* and hold it tight and shake, rattle and roll until the stuff has adhered to the foliage. Do this several times until you get the look you want. Let this all settle and dry.

Next, take a foliage color spray paint. I use several colors of green. This too is found at your craft store with the flowers. Spray the entire thing except the trunk. Let dry.

Now take your Quik Grab glue and apply to the trunk to replicate the texture of bark. Be sure to add a bit of glue...pulling it outward to create roots. Or you could collect a few real pieces to put here. You could also add some sawdust using a while glue. You could landscape around this area with flowers too.

Once dry, paint the trunk with a variety of browns, greens and black acrylic paints to achieve the realism you want. NOTE: I have used real branches, Manzanita branches and a hollow paper towel tube covered with Celluclay to create my trunks all with really great results.

Picture of my tree - I decided to take a few shots of one I have yet to "plant" and I figured out how to show it to you without having to go through my entire website. I just love this new digital camera... so quick and easy!! Just click below and see my tree: http://minipearls.homestead.com/updates.html

Pearl Jordan

Painting Small Plates:

TO CLEAN:

Rubbing alcohol
Q-tips or cotton balls

TO PAINT:

Dowel rod cut into pencil lengths
Sharpened on one end
Styrofoam or florist foam

To paint your plates edges here is something that might work. Try finding some museum wax, got mine in a mini store to hold things in the dh in place. Cut a dowel rod about the size of a pencil, and sharpen the other end. Place wax, (or poster putty) onto the blunt end, then place your plate or whatever onto the wax/putty. After painting poke the sharpened end into a piece of Styrofoam or florist foam till dry.

As for cleaning, I would think you could clean with rubbing alcohol (not the drinking kind!), with a Q-tip or cotton ball. This will remove any oil or dirt that your hands have put there. If you used acetone, it might start dissolving the plastics in your piece.

Lisa Lynn

Windows: I restored my grandmother's 2 room shadow box (ca. 1910) last winter. It has glass windows which are held in place with wood strips just like regular windows. They do not open but I glued pane dividers ( muntins/mullions?) as my mother recalled the originals as having. They are certainly clearer than the plastic panes I have in my dollhouse.

Susanne

Window Glass: I read a tip somewhere ages ago that, if you colour the edges of regular thickness windowpane glass with a black marker, you can't notice the thickness of the glass when it's put in a miniature window. The theory is that the light won't reflect through the edge of the glass once it's painted dark, so your eye can't tell that the glass is out of scale. I haven't tried this, not having made any windows, but did think it was an interesting idea as micro glass is much more expensive.

Heather Inglis