Drawers to dollhouses: About drawers under dollhouses, I build them individually to each dollhouse, Make a base for the dollhouse out of fairly heavy plywood (heavier than 1/4") take a 1/4" plywood sheet, cut a piece to fit the base inside the foundation walls, take a heavier piece of wood such as lath type trim to make the sides and back. in that order. The back piece fits inside the sides, If it is heavy enough wood, drill holes for nails or small screws (screw countersunk) glue as you go with carpenter's glue, letting each piece dry thoroughly (clamped too) for the front cut a piece of plywood, (1/4" will do) to fit outside the foundation and floor. Add a block of wood or a handle of some kind or two.

This has to be according to what is underneath the floor in the foundation area. For two drawers, you need a dividing piece of wood all the way back. Or a divider at the edge and a strip to keep the drawers apart.

Rhoda

The Dremel: This is a high speed low torque motor. "Low torque" means that it has not got brute power and if you apply too much pressure to the accessory in the tool you can stall the motor. The Dremel is made to get its work done by the use of the high speed capabilities. Light touch and high speed gets the job done. Caress the work with the drill functioning at the best speed for the job being done. Sanding can be high speed and light touch. Drilling if too slow a speed will stall the motor, too high a speed and you may burn the wood and lose the temper of the steel in the drill bit. Just like driving a car or cooking, the more experience the better you get, hopefully.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL.

Aged Hinges: I had been reading an article titled, "Instant Age for New Hardware," in the new issue of American Woodworker. Although it related to full size hinges, it could be applied to mini hinges. It mentions a product called "Brass Ager ($2.75 for 8 oz.) that is supposed to work with solid brass, solid steel, or zinc plate. It will not work on brass plated stuff. I have not used it; but, here is the URL for them. http://www.kennedyhardware.com

Dave, Bradenton, FL

Aging brass items: Someone in a jewelry site had mentioned to use an ammonia product, like Windex, and that this would "age" the brass. I have not tried it. Have you tried taking wood stain and brushing it on and then lightly wiping it off leaving some of it behind to color the finish? In Jewelry making they use Brunt Umber/ Dark brown for brass and gold items and Black for Silver items to give aging.

I have used acrylic burnt umber paint on pieces and then lightly wipe of the paint, until I have left some behind to look aged. Must place a finish coat to keep the paint on the piece.

Kerrie

Super-glossy appliances: Try using glossy spray paint. Krylon makes little bottles of spray paint (called "short cuts") so that you don't have to buy so much... I have used their matte white and it's very useful for a base coat, but there's also a glossy white which might be just what you're looking for.

Celeste in Boston

Super-glossy appliances: "Try using glossy spray paint. (called "short cuts")" this is great, but remember to spray lightly and then sand with very fine sandpaper and spray again - lightly - at least 7 to 10 times. It will be well worth the effort when they really look like porcelain.

Mary Lou in Middleburg Hts., OH

Painting windows: I had also upgraded some windows to the same as you have and found that the Plexiglas was removable which made it much easier. I am sure yours must come out too. All I did was use a good quality primer for the inside, painting it with a sturdy brush to make sure all surfaces were covered. When everything was dry, I folded some sandpaper to a good crease and used it like a file, going up and down, in all the grooves on the inside. I made sure none of the primer was removed but making sure it was smooth enough for the Plexiglas to go back in. I didn't bother to paint it since paint just adds another layer. If you are using white for your trim, this is one less step to do.

Sher in Toronto

Painting windows: On one side of my opening windows I stained all the woodwork. That tiny edge up close to the glass was a challenge. I used Crayola Felt Tip Markers and the brown worked like a charm; matching the stain. Just dragged the pen along the narrow edge. Combining this with the great idea of sliding in a piece of wax paper should solve the "staining" problem. Sorry I can't remember the name of the person who recommended the wax paper hint. Now, if you are painting, I hope the wax does the trick and will try it the next time I work on windows. Thanks for the wax-paper hint.

Elise in V

Draping: I made all the curtains for my dollhouse.   I have found that only the softest lace or silk work the best.   It has to be really flimsy material.   Then it hangs.   In my silk curtains in the LR, I didn't hem them.   I guess I could have used the selvage edge but just pulled threads to get a straight edge then trimmed.   The hem causes bulk and then they wouldn't hang right.   I still have to make my cornice or valance.   I think I'm going to do a cornice.   For the little girl's room I used the softest lace I could find.   A lot of times if you wash fabric good and get the sizing out, that helps a lot.

Linda In CT

Tiny Doll clothing Patterns: Look at a real pattern - the instructions. First page. LAYOUT...... The pattern pieces are represented faithfully for the layout... take this to a copier, and enlarge or reduce to fit your doll..... cut them out and use as patterns. Keep track of the percentage it took and use it on other patterns....... (thrift store patterns are about $.10) Mix and match sleeves, legs, arms, skirts, etc. Use glue instead of thread.

I've done this for years for all sizes of dolls. Works fine. For the very very small dolls, you might want to eliminate some of the fine detail on such as Vogue or Pristine but good ole Butterick or McCalls are good. Costume patterns will give you some exotic pattern pieces.

Judie - Daytona Beach. FL