Lumber and Building Materials

Page: 11
Parquet floor squares: I made a parquet floor for my living room and used blocks of 48 mm. This was for a floor with a mozaik-motif called Versailles Etoiles. In real life the blocks are 50cmx50 cm.

Marina


Parquet floor squares: The ones I've seen done are 1 inch squares to correspond to l foot "real-size" squares. I expect this is not engraved in stone as parquet comes in many patterns and arrangements and I would think it would be essentially whatever size you want it.

SUSAN AT THE WHITE RABBIT'S HOUSE


Screen for Porch: Industrial supply houses very fine, copper, filter screening (140/inch) which works well in 1 inch scale. For 1/2" scale, the best I have found is silk screen available through art or graphic art supply shops. It comes in white and paint tends to make the mesh too thick - holes too small. Using wide tip, black marking pen does a nice job of coloring without disrupting the sense of scale.

For a subtle, copper highlight - hit the cosmetics counter.

The nice thing with silk span is that it doesn't sag (unless you make it so) and a little 90 degree rip will drape away very realistically. For a "patched" screen. Cut an additional piece to size and overlay AFTER COLORING and secure with a drop of diluted clear lacquer. A little bit of additional light is needed behind the screen to achieve a "see through factor" equivalent to real screening.

Mel Koplin, Las Vegas


Screens:Michael's Craft Store, among others, which also sells online has screen meant for supporting clay works as an armature, which is very fine and great for mini screen doors! If you can't find it there or online try art stores in your area which carry various forms of artists clay.

Alice Zinn


Screen for Porch: I just saw a beautiful screened in room and they used bridal tulle for the screen. It is very fine net like material. I was very impressed with it. Looked just like screen. I would think you would find it in the bridal department at a fabric store.

Carbomax


Don't forget to paint your wall first with your "grout" color. I suppose you could carefully fill the grout lines when it is completely dry, but I never have. I have used the product on several projects and love it.

One caution: If you are attempting to do a whole brick house you have to be very careful when placing the tape to get a good look. I would do one wall at a time with a wraparound on the corner (could always use a corner trim instead).

Another thing to watch for doing a large surface is lining up the bricks on meeting walls. I have only used it on foundations and small walls or floors, but have seen it used on a full house.

Diane in SFBA


<<What is the difference between die-cut, 3/8" MDF and 3/8" fiberboard? Which would you recommend for a beginner? Does anyone know if castle dollhouses are available in kits?>>

Die-cut is a method of production. I means the pieces are stamped out rather than being sawn. It is only practical on thin materials (1/8" plywood usually). MDF is medium density fiberboard (LWF is now available- light weight fiberboard, but only in 1/2" and thicker). Fiberboard can be almost anything made of fibers, be they wood, straw, linen, etc.

The best houses are made of 3/8" plywood. (should I duck now?). Keep in mind that I may be biased since that is what I use, or maybe that's why I use it. There are a couple of castles available on my web site (look under dollhouses by time period). Earth 'n Tree

Tom Berkner


I don't recall that there actually is an American oak. There are probably over 100 varieties. The most common are white oaks and red oaks. There are also brown oaks and black oaks in the US (e.g. swamp oak). It is very possible to have an American oak that is the color of walnut (or darker). The white oaks tend to be the slightly lighter than pine (almost like ash) but some of the white oaks are a medium brown color, the red oaks are a pinkish color. The white oaks have rounded lobes on the leaves, the red oaks have pointed lobes. Incidentally, only white oak is used for barrels, red oak leaks.

The closeness of the grain is largely determined by where the tree was grown. In poor, dry soil, in a dense northern woods, you get the finest grain. For miniature work, I often will mill the wood from the branches of trees, because the grain is usually much finer.

Tom Berkner


Finishing Rough Edges of House: I have used a thin layer of wood putty over rough wood and then sanded it after the putty was dry. It came out very smooth. It acts as a "filler" and you don't have that heavy grain to deal with.

Marjorie in CA


Finishing Rough Edges of House: I use vinyl spackling compound to fill in and smooth the edges of plywood dollhouse parts. Especially for die-cut houses, I couldn't work without it. Just apply it with your finger, press it into the edge and then wipe off any excess with a paper towel. No waiting for it to dry. You can paint right over it.

Sally Cook-Thomas


Finishing Rough Edges of House: I seal the edges of my work with plain white spackle. It is easy to sand smooth. I use plain wood putty if the edge needs to be stained. I use a large emery board for sanding. (the type they use for sculptured nails) It does not harm the finish and is easy to handle.

Becky


Finishing Rough Edges of House: I have seen houses where the edges were covered with a thin strip of veneer. Looked very nice. I think I will try that on my house...

Asa in Fairfax VA


Finishing Rough Edges of House: I always cover the unfinished cut edges of the house with 1/16"x 3/8" or 1/2" strips of basswood, and paint the house color or trim color.

Fannye in TX


Finishing Rough Edges of House: a lifesaver for me has been Wood filler (in Canada, it's made by Lepages - can get it at Home Depot - you just fill in all the edges, wet your finger just a little and smooth it all out. You can paint right over it and it looks fabulous. Gives a real nice finished look to the edges.

Vi in Canada


Finishing Rough Edges of House: I cover all my house edges with channel molding and paint either to match the color of the siding on the house or the color of the baseboards in the rooms.

Mary Lynne in Huntington, WV


Mini pencil to pencil fence: All this talk of making pencils has me thinking of a photo in this month's Sunset magazine, which showed a full size fence made to look like a stockade of #2 pencils!  Very clever.

      Mini-makers could use this idea for fencing at a playground, preschool or mini daycare.  Only in "our" world, you could use real #2 pencils for the fence.

Wendy ~~ Elk Grove, CA


Downspouts: Another idea using those "flexible" straws is for downspouts off gutters.  Again, the flexible part will curve and form the elbow off the gutter down to the drain. 

Marjorie in CA


Wire Mesh: The aisle with the Wire Mesh was the one with the gold leaf, and I believe FIMO, etc. The wire mesh was available in different screen sizes - mine was 80 mesh. The other sizes would be great for frames for lamps. If you cut it into strips, you could weave it and it would hold its shape while you weave for a great woven basket. You could shape it into a modern chair, covered with foam and fabric or leather only. There's no end to the wonderful lamp shades it would make. Single strands would be good on a 1/144" Christmas tree.

Jean Day


Matboard: Brooke Tucker always advises against using matboard because it is not meant to have paint, glue or anything like that on it and it can separate into layers. Illustration board (poster board) comes in single and in double thickness and is meant for these purposes.

June in London, Ontario, Canada


Mat board: Seal it first with shellac or don't use water based paints to avoid separating.

Tom Berkner


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