Polymer Clay Molds: Sprinkle with talc or cornstarch as a release medium.

Laurie Sisson

ALL ABOUT KEMPER CUTTERS: Kemper cutters have long been available for ceramic work. Since the emergence of modeling compounds, they have become vital to the miniaturist for foods, plants, flowers, pictures frames, toys, etc.

Kemper makes several designs of cutters, but the most useful for miniatures are the Circle, Heart, Flower and Leaf.

Various SIZES of these cutters are available, but the most popular for miniatures are the 3/16", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2" and 1" sizes.

HOW TO USE KEMPER CUTTERS: Roll modeling compound out on a flat surface to desire thickness. Hint: After last roll, lift the slab of compound from the flat surface, rub the surface clean with a tissue, then lay it back down. Then your cut-outs will not stick to the surface and distort when you pick them up. Use the cutter as you would a cookie cutter (do not use the plunger inside the cutter as it will leave a mark on your cut-out.

SOME EXAMPLES OF USE:

Flower and leaf cutters speak for themselves for creating flowers and plants. The 1" circle cutter and the 1" heart cutter are wonderful for cutting out cake shapes, perhaps also using the 1/2" circle or heart for a second tier. The 3/8" flower cutter is great for gingerbread men. Cut out flower and gently stretch two of the petals to form legs, then score features with a toothpick. The 3/16" and 5/16" flower cutter is useful for creating the calyxes on strawberries, eggplant, squash, etc. The 5/16" circle cutter cuts just the right size one-inch scale doughnuts. Use a round toothpick to make the hole. Any of the smaller size cutters can be used to decorate cakes, frames, etc. Cookies of all shapes and sizes can be made using the cutters, then decorated as you desire.

Mary Eccher

Clay Cutters: Try http://www.dickblick.com for clay cutters. I have also purchased them from Michael's as well as at http://www.polymerclayshoppe.com.

Louise in NC

Kemper Cutters: The web site I discovered for Kemper Cutters is on http://www.pannikins.com under supplies.

Jerlean in Las Vegas

Polymer Molds: I took my one and only mannequin and a piece of prepared clay and pressed the mannequin into the square of clay which I had powdered the top of. I pushed it 1/2 way in, let the clay rest for a couple of minutes then carefully pulled the two pieces apart. I then repeated the process using the back side down in the clay. This gave me two sides which I baked, let cool and sanded the top down smooth on each piece until they fit together reasonably well(they were not perfect but very close.) Then I could powder the halves down and place my clay into one and press the other down on top. Let rest for a few minutes and remove from mold. Bake and then sand the small imperfections off. Now I have all the dress forms that I need. They are, of course, not quite as nice as those professionally made but they are not bad looking dressed

Dottie (Florida)

Softening Polymer Clay: To soften my clay I use a glass blender bottle I found at the goodwill. I use it for clay and the bottle that belongs on the blender is for food. I break off little chunks and add them in as each one is chopped. It softens the clay quickly and you can also use this method to blend two colors such as black and white to make rocks or slate. Another way to soften the clay is with the pasta machine. I have two of them. I ordered another one from Dee's Delights and now I have a back up in case I need it. When you have very old, hard clay, you can add a little Quick Mix as you chop or roll or work the clay. That will soften the clay back up. The secret to softening clay, no matter the method used, is to do only a tiny bit at first and then add a little at a time. The chemicals will be working and will aid the rest of the clay to soften.

Norieta in Hawaii

Fimo Frames: You can make very effective frames from Fimo. You need Fimo, and anything that makes a pretty impression. Look through your box of buttons or jewelry findings or earrings or tools. You will also need some kind of gold buffing powder. I used Rub 'n Buff but any will do. Work on a tile that can go straight into the oven. Choose a brownish color Fimo. Make 3 long sausages of Fimo in 3 thicknesses from fat to thin. It must be longer than the perimeter of your painting. Lay them out just touching with the fattest at the top and thinnest at the bottom. Now make regular impressions along the length of the whole thing with the findings or earrings or whatever. The trick is to make the impressions overlap 2 or more sausages. That melds the whole together. When you are satisfied with the result (don't be too fussy) cut your miters for your corners and form it into a 4 sided frame to fit your picture. Allow for a different color mounting board or two to add to the effect. Knock it square. That is important. Bake. Cool. Now rub it all over with gold Rub 'n Buff. You will be really surprised how effective they look.

Barbara B, South Africa

Air Drying Medium to Sculpt: You could try some Crayola Model Magic. It is ready to go, air-dries and "probably" wouldn't hurt the dog since it is made as a kid toy, though I won't go out on a limb and say that for sure. After all, chocolate is a non-toxic substance to humans, but to a dog it could be lethal. Might want to check with the vet, or with Crayola to see just how "non-toxic" it might be. Model magic can be a real twit to work with, in the way that it isn't easily stored. It will cure "eventually" no matter what, as it says on the Crayola web site. Some people have had success with putting the Model Magic in a jar and covering that with water. The fresh stuff will cure in about a day. Then it can be painted. I have made buns, cakes, animals, piñatas out of it. It doesn't hold very intricate details, but it doesn't need kneading and warming. Beyond that, I could only offer Das modelling clay (which I find smells like fish, is cold and slimy and makes a real mess on one's hands). I don't know of its longevity, though.

Kim from Canada

NOT burning Fimo: A very simple way to avoid burning small items made with Polymer Clay is to heat the oven to the required temperature then turn it OFF. Put your tray (I use a ceramic tile) of little items in the oven and leave them there until the oven is cold. Check that your item is hard enough, and if not then repeat the process. This works just fine for very small or very thin items, but of course for bigger or thicker items this may not be practical.

Kaye

Fimo vs.Sculpey: Fimo, Sculpey, Cernit, Promat, etc. are all plastic modelling compounds that can be molded, then baked, to a hard product. Now....FIMO is the firmest and the most MISERABLE to knead to a workable consistency. BUT the colors are true and, once workable, your miniature creation does not smoosh as you create it.

SCULPEY and the other compounds mentioned above are much softer, and you think, "Hey, this is great!" But from 20 years of experience I can tell you that many of the colors are either too bright or very dull after baking, not true to life. And they are actually too soft to create great detail. (Actually there are times when you WANT this - example, string beans for which I use the green Sculpey mixed with white, where you want a dull, flat finished product.)

Sorry to digress, but I would like to give you an example of a clear product vs. a dull one. I have slowly been getting back to making my foods after a bunch of stuff, and needed to make some cucumbers and watermelons. So instead of kneading the fimo, I grabbed the sculpey which is softer, and went to work. When baked, I was disappointed in the overall appearance...not realistic at all....dull and lifeless.

Anyway, I guess you can tell that FIMO is my compound of choice, even though it is more difficult to work with. Mixed 1 part to 1 part with a FIMO product called MIX QUICK, it is the best medium for miniatures. Colors stay true and detail can still be attained. (Why on earth the Eberhard-Faber Co. doesn't do that mixing for us before they package it, I will never understand!)

Mary Eccher

Polyclays: I think Fimo is best (of course, this is highly subjective as it is a personal choice). It is a little harder to work with, but tends to be a lot stronger when it is cured. I find Sculpey gets a little gummy after you work on it for a little while and has a bit more of a tendency to droop in warm conditions. Sculpey does have the advantage if you want to make a mold, though, as it takes details better. There are also other polys that I haven't tried, like Premo (just when you thought it was a two-party system;)

Kim Bulback

Fimo Info: Here is a wonderful site that has all the information you could ever need for polymer clays!

http://www.glassattic.com/

Many of us in the group use polymer clays constantly, and have for years and years. (I also have a lot of old clay that has been kept in sandwich bags for years, and it hasn't eaten through them yet.)

You might find that the Fimo you have is crumbly when you try to use it. You must warm it up to make it workable...hence the tips on keeping it in your bra... You also might want to get some 'Mix-Quick', which can be mixed into the Fimo to make it more workable.

So, take what you have out of the bag and play with it! Here is Mary Eccher's wonderful site with directions for making some food...great place to start. (She is one of the people who have been using this stuff for many years, and is still with us... Thank Heavens!)

http://www.pannikins.com/

Kaye in L.A.

About Polymer Clay (Fimo, Cernit etc)

• it's not toxic unless you bake it hotter than recommended,
• you don't need to wear gloves
• you can warm it up in your bra if you like
• if you don't do bras - sit on it
• it will eat through hard plastic - but this takes time
• storing in a tin will be just fine
• you can use your oven - but if you are worried look for a cheap toaster oven
• don't microwave it
• you can boil it if you want to but it may develop a whitish film
• it is not made from diamonds and gold dust - if what you are making is a disaster, you are ALLOWED to throw it away

Lesley, Johannesburg, South Africa

Bakers clay: A while back I made mention of "Bakers clay" and I have been asked by a number of folks about it; like "what is it"? To me what I use for Bakers clay is a short cut.

Take a slice or two (depending on your needs) of white bread and remove the crust. Using white glue (Elmer's) thoroughly dampen the white bread with the glue and begin to knead and squish it together. You are trying to make a lump of moldable goop out of the bread and the glue.

BE FOREWARNED This is a wonderfully messy project. The bread/glue combination will tend to stick to your fingers like glue(VBG). For this I keep a bucket of water handy with paper towels. If you dust your hands with flour the sticking will be greatly reduced. When you have achieved a moldable mass, pinch of what you need and make your creation. The rest can be placed in a plastic wrap and put in the fridge and it will keep for a few weeks.

The Bakers clay air dries and it will dry in about 24 to 36 hrs. When dry it is very light so if you drop it on the floor it will not break. It can be painted with acrylics and when the paint is dry a coat of clear nail polish and you have something that is very close to porcelain in appearance.

DrBob...Delray Beach, FL.

Bakers clay: or bread dough clay. My clever and artistic sister made me incredible roses, etc., many years ago. She coated them in various things, varnishes, etc., then I packed them up when I had babies. When I unpacked, when the mice hadn't eaten, had turned black or had growths of now hard mold. 'Nuff said.

Beth in Maine

Bakers clay: I have used baker's clay for thirty years and have never had an item spoil in any way. I think that living in Montana where our atmosphere is dry helps. I also use glycerin in the bread-glue mix. I mix paint into the dough to get very realistic colors. I do not coat the items with anything when I am finished and they last and last and last. If you live in a moist climate, I do not know what will happen.

Carol Atchley

Mexican Tiles: I used Aamco Mexican air dry clay, and made great Mexican tiles. Rolled it between 2 sheets of wax paper, and cut them with a hexagon canapé cutter. Left them to dry and peeled them off. Perfect. Looks slightly imperfect just like the real thing. Do not roll too thin for a realistic look.

LadyBug

Fimo Tiles: I have made wonderful clay tiles by placing the slab of rolled out Polymer on graph paper. Slice vertically and horizontally, using the grid you have marked as the right size for the tiles.

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Mary Kaliski

Polymer Clay warning:  spoken from experience! It melts plastics.  I had a piece just tossed in my work box and I discovered it had attached itself to my protractor and it has eaten into the plastic of the protractor rendering it useless ( one whole corner is eaten away).  Fortunately I have another one and if I didn't it wouldn't be too expensive to replace, but if it had settled next to something else the out come might not be too pleasant.

Diana in New Zealand

Plastic melting: Yes, polymer clays can eat through plastic (certain kinds anyway).  Always put your clays in a plastic bag (this type of plastic has no adverse effects) before storing anywhere.  As to affecting metal?  Won't eat into it, but heat, even the heat of a summer day, can make it bake onto metal.

Mary Eccher