Plastic melting: Yes, polymer clay doesn't get along well with certain types of plastic. I've found, however, that those little plastic (black, white, or gray) 35mm film containers are impervious, as well as ordinary zip-lock type baggies.

Dave Pierce

Baking Fimo: Heard a hint the other day that might be of interest to those who are concerned about baking polymer clays in their regular oven.  Donna Kato, who is a frequent guest on "The Carol Duvall show", was on "Home Matters" on the Discovery Channel and she suggested putting the polymer clay in one of those disposal aluminum foil pans and covering top securely with foil before baking.  She added that she would let it cool completely before opening it up.  Sounds like a good suggestion for those who don't have a toaster oven to bake their clay in.

Marsha Heeter, Dallas, OR

Micro waving Fimo: Unfortunately, micro waving Fimo won't work. Microwaves cook food in a different manner than a conventional oven, by causing water in the food to boil and cook the item through steam heat. This is why it isn't possible to brown meat in them.  The steam produced in a Fimo item would probably cause it to explode inside the microwave (same way things like baked beans and other messy enclosed items do). Also, you can't control the heat produced in a microwave, so you might be more likely to melt an item than cure it (hot spots have killed more than one tupper ware container!). Melted Fimo is *TOXIC* as well, so it is better not to chance an accident.

Kim from Canada

Angie Scarr Videos: I also received Angie Scarr's set of polymer clay videos. I have watched all of the tapes and find them very informative. Her tapes are available on VHS.

Here's the scoop: contact Dina at :    Cloak and Dagger Creations, 61 Gilson Road, Littleton, MA 01460-1300, e-mail: info@mailcloakmaker.com. Angie's web site:  http://www.angiescarr.co.uk   ( those peelable oranges).

Sondra, Missouri

Clay formula to use in making miniatures. I assume that you are talking about clay that is to be fired in a kiln?? If that is the case, I have found that the best to work with is porcelain modeling clay. I find that if you are hand building or modeling that the piece is so small to begin with that drying out quickly is a problem. But if you keep the piece of clay you are working with covered with plastic and you continually add a tiny bit of water you can very easily keep it pliable. This is what you mentioned, not being able to find a pliable clay. Porcelain does not have any grogg in it and an added benefit (at least when making miniatures) is that it shrinks in the firing up to 30%.

Gary in NH

Baking Polymer Clays: Here is a site that gives a lot of different ways to bake clay and you can even use a solar oven. It also gives a site to go to get directions on making your own oven.

http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/baking.htm

Marlene Chapman-Ontario

Clay: I too work with clay and what I have found works well to sculpt tiny figures or busts is to rough out the clay and let it dry. Then carve the details. I did a tiny bust and a kwan yin figure that way. I have used low fire white clay, and porcelain and they worked equally well but the porcelain must be fired to a higher temperature.

Jacqui in Hilo, HI

Sculptamold : Sculptamold, made by American Art aka AMACO, is a paper mache/plaster hybrid, and as such has more body to it than a pouring plaster. For this reason, it can be sculpted more like a really wet clay. Hydrocal is a plaster product, with a stronger tensile strength than Plaster of Paris, thus more durable. But, Hydrocal is made to be cast in molds and as such has a much thinner body than the Sculptamold. Maybe if you let it set up a little before you tried to landscape with it you could use it, but it will start to set very fast after the initial resting time.

I buy Sculptamold at a regular artist supply store. Stores that sell Department 56 sometimes carry it too. I believe it is also available to purchase online at http://www.newsearching.com/ceramics_clay/Modeling_Clay__Sculptamold__3_lbs_.html. AMACO's website is http://www.amaco.com/1998Catalog/arts_crafts/artemboss.htm A similar product to look for is CelluClay made by Activa. Activa's website is http://www.activa-products.com/

Tere Perry in Texas

Cleaning the Pasta Machine: I don't know if this will work for you due to the "stains" in your pasta machine may be old, but I usually run a folded up wet paper towel through the rollers just like I was going to make pasta.  I do this a few times changing the paper towel if I need to and running it through in different places on the rollers.  I do this every time I put Fimo through it and in between the different colors as well.  I guess you could also make the paper towel soapy if you need to then "rinse" it with a different towel with just water on it.  Then I rub the rollers pretty firmly up and down them as I turn them to dry the wetness off--this also gets some of the stains off as well.

Parisa

Cleaning Oily Pasta Machine:  To clean the roller on your "oily" pasta machine, get some alcohol swabs at the drug store and run them through the machine several times until your roller is clean.

Mary Eccher

Boiling polymer clay: Just wanted to thank whoever sent in the tip about boiling the polymer clay. I tried it last night, and did more today. It's great!!!!!!

No burning, no flat spots, etc,. The best part is no fumes! I had a very small sauce-pan, that I used to heat up baby food jars when my kids were babies. I use that for the small pieces I've tried, with great success. Has anyone tried boiling for larger pieces? (I did set the timer to make sure I didn't run out of water! I think that's important.)

Cindy

Polymer Clay Safety (Fimo, Sculpey, ...et al): I love reading these digests but I haven't really had much to say until now. I've read about the interest in the safety of polymer clays. While I was pregnant, I followed a trail of links to an organization called "Arts, Crafts and Theatre Safety" in New York. Someone there gave me the following information:

1. ACMI- the people who put the "certified non-toxic" label on art products -is made up of Manufacturers, not unbiased scientists.
2. The oily stuff is called "phthalate plasticizer". It is what keeps the clay pliable and bakes off to harden or "cure" the clay . It is a carcinogen that eats through rubber (gloves) and plastic and passes right through the skin (personal note: so not only are you breathing it, it is also being absorbed into your blood stream--so why not just go ahead and eat off of it!!). ACMI does not have to test a product for carcinogens to label it "certified non-toxic".
3. The Consumer Product Safety Commission put out a bulletin saying that for grade 6 and under, art products should have NO warnings--not even "do not ingest" (personal note: so why then is it carried by "Family Toy Warehouse" stores?!). Don't let children even touch uncured clay...

For more info, write to:

Monona Rossol
Arts,Crafts and Theater Safety
181 Thompson St., #23
New York, NY  10012-2586

(212-777-0062) or http://www.caseweb.com/acts/

Nancy

Fimo: I have never boiled fimo. My specialty is dolls, and I make them out of Fimo. I bake them at the recommended temperature for 20min., then I plunge them straight into cold water. This seems to make the Fimo quite resilient. When I just left the stuff to cool, I tended to lose fingers (theirs, not mine!) and although they glue back very well it was a bother. The important thing to remember is not to bake them at too high a temperature because the fumes are dangerous. And keep the tools separate - including the baking tray (I use a ceramic tile - then you can model on to it and not move delicate pieces until they're baked).

I use any wood glue I can filch from my husband, but I always use wood glue, and not just pva! At the moment it's Evo Stick, which I like. And I only use a little bit, or else it squidges out everywhere!

I'm a bit impatient with glue, and an idiot with clamps, so it I'm assembling something, I'll use a tiny drop of superglue as well as the wood glue. Then, after a minute of sitting holding the item firmly into the jig, it sets and I can get on with the next bit! The proper wood glue is what I rely on in the long run, but the superglue holds it together while I'm working on it, a bit like tacking stitches when you sew.

Lynne Connolly

Boiling Fimo: Thanks for the tip on boiling clay. I have just made a face from the James Carrington book and have boiled it. Beautiful results. I also made a pie from the Mary Kalinski book on Polymer Clay and it turned out great. Boiling gives fruits a luster that is unbelievably realistic.

Marje

Bowls: I find it is easiest if you make what is called a slump mold. The mold can be made out of anything that holds up well such as baked fimo, hot glue, plaster of Paris, etc. Make the mold over your form (marble, broom handle, etc.) and then press your fimo or clay into the mold. Smooth the inside, and cut the rim evenly. You might have to powder the inside of the mold if you must remove the piece before baking it. Something like plaster can be put into the oven and it won't cause a problem.

Jacqui Marlin

Boiling polymer clay: This talk of boiling polymer clay prompted a discussion between my DH (a science freak) and myself. Water boils at 212 - then it *evaporates* so it can't get hotter, except, he tells me, in a pressure cooker. The temperature achieved is also a function of air pressure - which is why water boils at a different temperature in the mountains. Steam gets hotter - scalds from steam can be much worse than boiling water I am told.

So - maybe the polymer clay cures just as well at the lower temp because it is in a liquid... Given that I am hearing such good results I may have to give it a go.

Charlene

Diane Black's "encyclopedia" of information on polymer clay

http://www.glassattic.com/index.html

You can find more at this site re baking Polymer clays

http://www.glassattic.com/polymer/baking.htm

Petra

Bowls: As a form for bowls, find someone who smokes cigars and get them to save you a tube. They are rounded on the end and would be perfect.

Martha Simpson Nock

Concerning baking items with polymer clay: Batting, cooking parchment paper is safe...but plastic wrap will just melt...wouldn't suggest you use that. I am a polymer clay doll artist...I often use parchment paper to lay my pieces on to prevent a shine on the bottom. I use batting or polyfil to lay other objects on...especially if it is a dimensional object..ie..legs..hands..head, etc.

Also, if I need to "prop" a hand up (heat will sometimes make it sag while it is baking)...I will position a piece of parchment paper between the hand (polymer clay) and a mug or cup or glass. By using the parchment paper I will not get a shine on the hand.

Gloria

Baking Clay: There has been a lot of discussion lately about baking and boiling polymer clays. I have been baking my clay on index cards forever! Keeps away those dreaded shiny spots!

Alice Zinn