Polymer Clay Conditioning and Storing - When you buy a packet of any polymer clay it is advisable to "condition" your whole block. In other words soften the whole thing. As miniaturists, we tend to break off the little piece we need and leave the it in the open packet. After conditioning, I put the clay in Ziplock baggies and then store in a plastic container with a lid.

Store it in a cool place. The fridge is best if you have a space in there you can use. Avoid leaving it in a car on a hot day as it will bake in the heat. As far as I am aware each brand has a shelf life of at least 7 years if stored correctly and even then if you have some old and what seems impossible to restore, clay you can use either Fimo brand Mix Quik or Sculpy Dilutent to revive your clay.

Petra

Pasta Machines - I was able to find a pasta machine at a yard sale, but it's a good investment even at full price. To preserve Fimo, I run it through the pasta machine 2-3 times, making it thinner each go-around. On the last run, I put the Fimo between two sheets of waxed paper and put the "sandwich" through the pasta machine. The pressure adheres the waxed paper to the Fimo in a sort of bond. Then I place the "sandwich" in a Zip-lock bag and store all my "sandwiches" in a Rubbermaid lidded box. Even if any of them should dry out, they will be easy to rework because they are in such thin layers.

Anita Myers in Arnold, MD

Fimo/Polymer Clay Leftovers - A handy little "system" I've found that works fine for me is to keep any leftover clay in the sealable/stackable Tupperware Hamburger savers. I'm not affiliated with them, so I get all of mine at the Goodwill store for CHEAP - ($1-$2 for a bag of a bunch). This "system" is also GREAT for securely storing all types of mini things, and you can stack them 20-30+ high, and then "pop" the section you want. For the clay storage, you could also add the benefit of a baggie, but I've never found it necessary. Many people recommend keeping the clay leftovers in the fridge, your choice. With the large amounts of Fimo/Poly clay I use, I first blend everything in a food processor (before it hits the pasta press,)so this eliminates most problems that occur with normal "handling".

Linc Leedy

Softening Fimo: Go to www.sunshinecrafts.com (Sunshine Discount Crafts website). They have Sculpey Softener, #SD1 (Diluent). Since Sculpey and FIMO are both polymer clays, this should work just as well to soften hardened FIMO.

Mary

Softening Fimo: There's a Fimo product called Mix-Quick, a transparent kneading medium for softening fossilized Fimo. It does lighten the colors somewhat, but not terribly. Also, try mixing your Fimo with the same color of Fimo Soft, which is available in a wide range of colors. Finally, if you're not using a pasta maker to roll the Fimo out, start haunting yard sales or buy a cheapo model (Dee's carries a very good one). I don't know how I lived without mine--you'll have soft, blended Fimo in a matter of minutes.

Kate

Softening Fimo: Has the Fimo been exposed to some extreme heat (sun in a window or extra hot room)? If not, try a pasta maker. Just crumble it up and add a bit of QuikMix as you run it through. This does work.

Mary Lou

Air Drying Clay: Air dry clay is clay that will dry in the air. No baking. It is not as strong as "cooked" clay but for certain uses it is my choice. I bought a 5 lb. Box at Michael's (any craft store should have it). It is surprisingly inexpensive. Since I only use a small amount at a time I keep the remainder in a plastic bag (double bags) and squirt some water into the bag with the clay and use "twist 'ems" to seal the bags. I use a squirt/spray water bottle while I work with the clay to keep it from drying out.

Bob

Baking Fimo: When I bake fimo or Du-kit as we also have here, I line whatever dish or tray that I use with tinfoil. I really only do it incase there is some residue or grease on the dish or tray that may contaminate my creation - not the other way around.

Diana

Fimo Fumes: Somebody asked if Fimo and similar clays leave something behind when you bake them in the oven. YES! they deposit something-or-other on the oven walls, which can be re-deposited on your food. Yuck. I've heard of people sealing the clay in foil before baking it.

Lee

I do relatively little with Fimo, but I read a tip somewhere (sorry that I can't give credit where credit is due) about covering it with foil while it is baking, so that is what I do. No ill effects from using the same oven for Fimo and food so far!

Janet

Polymer Clay Web Sites: Here are some neat sites on Polymer Clay (Fimo + Sculpey and others):

http://www.heaser.demon.co.uk/sue/suetemp.htm
http://www0.delphi.com/polymerclay/pcc/opening.html
http://www.sculpey.com/
http://www.yeoldouthouse.com/clayhints.html
http://www.prairiecraft.com/

Marjon de Haas

Fimo vs. Sculpey III: Sculpey III is similar to Fimo in that they are both polymer clays. Fimo is firmer and holds its shape better when working with it.

Rose

Fimo vs. Sculpey III: I I must say fimo is far more superior, sculpey was cheaper but the only reason I used it was I was not able to get orange fimo at that time, but definitely Fimo is better.

Patti

Pasta Machine (For Conditioning Polymer Clays): Dick Blick's art supply catalog offers pasta machines for $24.95 and here is the web site http://www.db-secure.com/zz329/31/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=1998

This will take you right to the pasta machine. Some prefer heavy duty machines that cost bunches more, and if you are going to be using the machine frequently that probably would be best. You can even get these babies with motors!

Donna in Montana

My 45 year old Pasta Roller is the imported from Italy kind. I heard about flattening and kneading Fimo, so I got it out and it works great. You have to cut the Fimo in half, so you have two squares instead of one. Then keep tightening the tension on the ringers till you get it where you want it.

The first thing I made was 12 sets of dominos. The machine also has a noodle slicing attachment, which was just the right size for the length of each domino. I etched the individual "bones" into the strips and used a blunt needle to poke the spots in. Baked them, put on some white paint, wiped it off, so just the spots showed, then cut each one from the strip, with a single edge razor. The hard part was making the boxes to put them in.

The machine is chrome, with stainless steel rollers, (like the kind on old wringer washing machines). You can't submerge it in water to clean it. So now that I have used it for Fimo, I shouldn't use it for pasta. I use the ringers to knead Fimo, before I make something. It really softens it up nicely.

MAP in Puyallup

From Mary Eccher (author of the Mary's Menus articles for Nutshell News): I will be posting CLASSES on Miniature Cookery using Modelling Compounds and Resin at my website. I will start at the beginning of my articles (Nutshell News 1984) - basic instructions, then give you all my (revised) article instructions, and go on from there. QUESTIONS ON THE USE OF MODELLING COMPOUNDS AND RESINS ARE WELCOME! JUST ASK! Either at my Website or on Small Stuff.

http://www.pannikins.com/

Mary Eccher

Polymer Clay Bath Fixtures: Head off to the library and ask them for Sue Heaser's book Making Doll's House Miniatures with Polymer Clay. She shows how to make a complete bathroom set and includes directions for making tiles as well. If the style of the various pieces doesn't appeal or suit what you need, you can use her basic instructions but adapt them to what you see in a Sears or other catalog. I think this is a wonderful book. And Tom carries it at Earth and Tree, got there first, Tom! Also she provides lots of info on working with clay which would also be a help to you. If your local library doesn't have it you can ask them to get it on an interlibrary loan.

Esther in BC

Cutting FIMO Canes: You can reheat the canes before you cut them. Just use a slightly cooler oven than you baked them at, to keep from scorching them. If you need to cut your canes before baking, make sure you roll them and cut from a different side each time. This helps keep their shape. Another thing is to refrigerate them for a little while to make them firmer. Also, make sure you are cutting them, whether unbaked or baked, with a sharp razor blade or tissue blade. This is not the time to be using an old dull blade.

Marsha Heeter

There are a couple of other ways I know of to slice canes:

1. Is put the cane in the freezer on a ceramic tile and freeze for several hours. Take out and slice on tile with a very sharp and thin razor blade. I use the old fashioned double sided razor blades (be very careful with these blades and cover one of the sharp edges with tape). Then bake in oven on the tile.

2. Put the cane on tile, bake in the oven one or two minutes. The idea is to make the cane slightly firm, not baked until done. Take out and slice when you remember. Put back in oven and bake till done.

If you are using Sculpey or a similar brand try using only Fimo. Fimo is much firmer and holds its shape better when sliced. Also always remember to use a sharp and new blade when slicing.

Robin in Israel

Cutting Fimo Canes: Well, I've never tried to do it after baking, I am so afraid to lose a lovely cane by having not enough time to cut it when it is still warm. So, I always cut them when they are 'raw'. When you start cutting a cane it has to be not too soft and not too hard. Medium is the best option. When you try to cut a very soft (warm) cane, the pattern will distort and doing it with a hard (cold) cane, you get little tears. And then the big tears start to run :o(

Next is the shape of the cane. Is it round-shaped or square? With a round-shaped one you have to turn it after every cut. Use a very thin and very sharp knife, like the one-edged razorblade. With a square-shaped cane you can take two pieces of wood, put the cane between them and start cutting (let some fimo peep out of the wooden alley of course, for cutting fimo AND wood is a very tough job) you can use a ruler to make equal sizes. Turn regularly..

Marjon de Haas (The Netherlands)