making rubber molds: I made a few rubber molds, not 40 years worth like Dr. Bob, but feel that I must add a warning to his instructions. Molds cannot be made of just any shape.

Say for instance, you have a doll that you made with its arm bent and the hand on the hip, also with it's legs separated a little. You follow Dr. Bob's instructions. However, you will never get doll, the original or any copies out of the mold. You cannot have any enclosed places, like the arm and the space between the legs. When you pull the mold off, you will rip the arm and legs off. You could get around the legs by making them separately, but nothing can be done about that arm.

I know this is as clear as mud, but perhaps someone who knows what I am talking about can explain it better without pictures.

Mary Lou in Portage, IN

Getting doll out of mold: you can get the doll out if you cut the part line on the inside of the opening that the arm makes by having her hand on her hip. Most any doll in any position can be released when you use a silicone mold. I haven't made rubber molds but I would think its the same principal. It all depends on where you make your cuts.

Nancy

Rubber molds: Ironically I am including inst. for making rubber molds in my Jan. DM project ( yes, I am working on now Jan. now). I also use the dip method.

To answer Viola's questions from my experience ...(do keep in mind that I am reproducing very small items)...I use sticky wax to attach the base of the item to be reproduced to a small square of 1/2" foamcore. Then I can hold on to the foamcore when dipping. This also allows me to poke a toothpick or skewer into the foamcore base and "hang" the drying mold by poking the other end of the pick or skewer into a block of Styrofoam. I hang subsequent dippings up and down as the rubber does tend to sag a bit with the thickness obtained by dipping. Right after dipping I use a toothpick to smooth and join the rubber that is on the bottom of the mold and on the base, thus forming a lip on the base. When the desired thickness is obtained the rubber will peel from the foamcore leaving a pour hole once the positive has been removed. I have found that once the mold is peeled from the base it is wise to let it sit for another day to let the air get to the underside.

Rubber mold making is not something that is done in a day....it is easy but there is a lot of down time. But it is fun, relatively inexpensive, will add another notch to your craft know-how and great when you need a bunch of little like-items. As when working with any new material do read the label carefully and follow the precautions and suggestions listed.

Joann Swanson

Rubber mold: I believe this is how she did it. I never saw it done. She bought some rubber-mold stuff and painted it on the model. I suspect that the model had to be painted with some kind of mold release, but the mold package should tell you how to do it.... (First, she secured the model down to a board that's just slightly bigger than the model, so it would not fall over.) That end of the model would provide a "pour hole" and she'd pour the sculpey into that hole. So it's wise to take some time to decide where you want that hole to be.

For example: The pour hole (or the portion to be glued to a board), needs to be the biggest part of the model because the remainder of the model will have to be able to be pulled through that hole, when you remove it. Rubber does stretch to help get larger pieces through smaller holes, but there is a limit to the amount it will stretch.

Then she continued to give the model more and more coats of rubber paint until the rubber paint was about 1/8" thick (?)... something like that. I believe she had to dry between coats, but the instructions would tell you what to do.

When dry, she opened it up and peeled rubber down and pulled out the model. If there were deep "under cuts" the rubber would tear or have to be cut so the model could come out. That's ok. It will still work but wherever the mold tore, there will be a small seam that will need to be sanded away later on.

I never saw her do this so I'm working on memories of what she told me and what I assume has to be done... be sure to follow directions that come with the package.

The rubber mold would have to be removed from the board. When that is done you will see that it left an opening so you can see inside of the mold. That will be the "pour hole"

You now have to find some way to make that floppy rubber mold stand up while you pour the sculpey into it. I would want to make a plaster mold to hold it. Here's how I would do it: Get a milk carton and cut it down to about 2" taller than your mold, and pour about 1/2" plaster into it. Let it set a bit (not hard, but enough so rubber mold will not sink to the bottom when you put it on top of the plaster). Then put the rubber mold (with model still inside it) into the plaster (board-side "up"). If possible push the rubber mold slightly into the plaster to help hold it in place. Then pour plaster to half-way up the rubber mold. Dry overnight. Leave in the milk carton. Paint the exposed part of the plaster with liquid dishwashing detergent. Then pour more plaster to just up to (but not covering) the board. Let dry at least overnight.

Now take it all out of the milk carton. Separate the two parts of the plaster mold, remove the rubber mold, and pull out the model. When you wish to cast the sculpey, place the rubber mold (without the model, you'll not need the model again) inside the bottom plaster mold, with the pour hole up. Then set the top plaster mold on top of that. Rubber band the pieces together. Pour the sculpey. Let sit a few minutes (or follow instructions on the sculpey package). Then remove rubber mold and bake only rubber mold/sculpey in oven. Set plaster aside to use next time.

I am still concerned about one thing: How do you keep the rubber mold upright in the oven? The board has been removed to provide the pour hole. You may have to sink the rubber mold into a slab of regular sculpey... and bake them together. If that works, then you could save that slab of sculpey and use it every time you want to bake the rubber mold/sculpey combination. So make it a good sturdy support; it may have to be thick enough to go 1/4 of the way up the rubber mold. And to easily determine just HOW/WHERE that rubber mold should sit inside the support, use a felt pen and draw a line from the rubber mold down over the support. Then next time you use it, you can just match up the lines that will appear on the rubber mold and the support piece.
I don't believe you need a mold-release for rubber.

Just a reminder: I have NOT seen this done... I think my idea would work. But I've never done it, other than in my mind. If you can get better advice, please use that. But if not, I think you could give my idea a try and would probably learn how to do it using that as a beginning idea.

Viola

Mold Material: To all who inquired; I have seen a few posts to SS asking what can be used to make molds from an original. I have used liquid latex which is natural liquid rubber or use the man made neoprene. Both work the same way "Dip and dry".

DrBob

Mold Material: I use the two compound type rubber molding material. I find this may be messier, but is much more reliable in creating the mold. I also use the method (two piece mold for the many undercut item, one piece for simple objects, laying object in a form, surround with clay for making the pour hole and perimeter of mold, etc steps) taught to me by a porcelain mold artist. I find this method minimizes bubbles, strengthens mold for many uses and allows casting in different types of materials from low temp metals such as pewter to polyresin compatible with the rubber. (Not all polyresins are compatible with all rubber materials). I hope this helps those questioning the rubber mold making process.

Rhonda in Fl

Historical hat patterns: Just returned a fascinating book to the library. It is called "From The Neck Up", by Denise Dreher, published in 1981 by Madhatter Press. It teaches full size hat construction but also has 60 patterns for headwear ranging in time from Ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman, through medieval to mid 20th century berets. It even has the baseball cap that someone was looking for a while back, plus ones like a mortar board, skullcap, bishop's mitre and witch's hat. The patterns are all drafted on a grid so should be easy to re-scale. It's in my local library, so is accessible by inter-library loan.

Wendy in Clinton, NJ

Faeries & Elves: I have a step by step how-to on making a sleeping baby fairy on my site. http://gerdesdesign.com/northwest.htm It was also in Dolls in Miniature a few years ago, and Viola may have a back issue available. I also made some elves following the basic methods of Maureen Carlson from her excellent book, recently mentioned here, "How to Make Clay Characters". Just made the ears pointy, skin green, and gave him an acorn top cap: no longer human, now an elf! There are pictures of my elves too, if you go to the URL above.

Anne

Polymer fairy instructions: Sue Heaser has a great little fairy to make step by step:
http://www0.delphi.com/polymerclay/PCC/suefairy.html

Marilyn, Mini-ing in RV

Slippers: you can easily make a pair of slippers for your poor toeless gentleman. Cut an elongated oval out of felt. Cut this in half. Each half will become the front/top part of the slipper. Glue it down over the top part of the foot and toes (you might want to put some little beads in for the missing toes) and turn edges under, gluing them to the sole of the foot. Then cut out soles to fit and glue them on.

Paulette in IN

For anyone interested in combining dollhouse stuff with dolls, Seeley is also issuing a body where the skirt opens to reveal a couple of shelves- I immediately saw miniatures where they had a child's toy kitchenware. The doll would be about 17" (the body is 13"). Seeley has a web page - have them send you the flyer - it would make a really different
"roombox"! http://www.seeleys.com

Ana

Prosculpt polymer clay: I use it for all my miniature dolls and it is brilliant stuff. Once it is baked, I go over it with acetone to remove fingerprints and then I use Aquaclour which is a theatrical make-up and brush that all over. Then I leave it for a couple of minutes and wipe the bulk of it off. Any problems with translucency are removed this way. It also 'primes' the clay so it takes acrylic paints better, and settles into creases, lines and features - gives the dolls more life. This is a tactic I gleaned from my all time favourite book on mini dolls - 1/12th scale character dolls for the dollshouse by James Carrington. One I recommend anybody interested in miniature doll making should buy!!

Trace

Inexpensive Mannequins: Dolls & Miniatures magazine had instructions for making your own mannequin in the Spring 2000 issue (http://www.dollsminiatures.bigstep.com) . You just use a dime store plastic doll (often available at craft stores, or bakeries) as the main part (after removing head and legs & arms -- and then contributor then shows you how you can use those discarded parts) and glue it to a Styra cone. Very easy and very inexpensive to make. Can be painted with a flat paint to lose the plastic look; although very little of a mannequin "shows" after it is dressed. I thought it was really very effective as a mannequin.

Viola

Inexpensive Mannequins: The only one's I've found are in kit form, made by Chrysnbon and distributed by Dee's delights. I buy them through my local mini store. You can contact Jerry at Dee's to ask where they are in your neighborhood or, if none, I suspect that Tom Berkner at Earth & Tree Miniature carries them. They come 2 to a kit, are very easy to assemble, and the black plastic can be painted or covered in fabric. (I've done both and they look quite nice.)

Rosemary in Cleveland

Underwear: I don't know about making the undies, but I have ordered beautiful mini lingere from Gwen Brennen. She has wonderful 1" and 1/2" scale lace undies, and her prices are very reasonable.
Her email is Miniavore@aol.com.

Whui

Rhinestones: I have rhinestones for miniature jewelry I have them in 4ss, 5ss, and 6ss pointed backs and some flat backs. I have them in different colors. E-mail me fay@fay-vourite.com for information - -- Fay-vourite Crafts & miniatures co. http://www.fay-vourite.com.

Fay

1/4 scale dolls: I have not attempted something this small, but here's my suggestions:
1) try a different medium - I don't know which is which, but I know that Fimo, Sculpey, Sculpey III, paperclay, etc. each have a different consistency and pliability. Maybe one that is less pliable would work better.
2) make the body out of wire, not sculpting medium. This way you're not continuing to handle the head once it's formed. Take a piece of wire and hold it vertically; from the top (neck) come down as far as the torso length will be and bend the wire slightly at that point - then go down as far as the leg will be (including foot length), and fold the wire back on itself. Bring the wire back up to the top of the leg and bend it back down again for the second leg, then back up on itself again. Twist it once around the hip area, then run it up to the shoulder area - leave enough at the top for the neck, including enough length to insert into the head. At the shoulder point, bend the wire out sideways and run it the length of an arm and hand, then back on itself to the shoulder, loop it once to anchor, and then across for the other arm. Back to the shoulder and loop it once to anchor and cut off remainder. Then crimp the leg and arm ends to form hands & feet. Form your head & stick it on top, then air-dry or bake upright. You can even add sculpting medium over the wire for hands and feet. I think this would be much easier and require minimum handling of the head.
3) paint, don't sculpt, the head/facial features.
4) Make the head out of a bead or something rigid that can be painted.

Graceanne

¼ Scale Sculpting: Once I saw a picture of a lady in a magazine, who was making a mini vase out of clay. She had a large bump of clay on the rotation wheel and on top of it she had this little vase 'growing'. Couldn't you do something just like that: take a large bump of fimo and let your little doll grow out of it? It's worth a try, I think.

Marjon de Haas (The Netherlands)

50s Moderne Open House: I finished my quarter scale 50s Moderne House and would like to invite you all too see it.
http://www.wishbooktoys.com/dollhouse/50s/

John Medeiros

Underwear: I don't know about making the undies, but I have ordered beautiful mini lingerie from Gwen Brennen. She has wonderful 1" and 1/2" scale lace undies, and her prices are very reasonable.
Her email is Miniavore@aol.com.

Whui