Dolls

Page: 15

Stockings and Shoes for Dolls: I have just put up the instructions on how to make stockings and silk ribbon slippers for your dolls. If you are interested, you can find these instructions on my site under "Projects". http://www.swallowhilldolls.com/

Joy Parker in Midland, Ontario


Polymer Clay Uses: As I've said before, first and foremost, I am a doll artist, and have used polymer clays for several years now.  There are a multitude of clays and techniques that can work for you.  I've also developed arthritis in my hands and have a very difficult time, but it is also a good 'hand workout'. Sculpey is a standard clay, but it's not very hard, is mushy, and not as durable as Fimo.  It does have wonderful colors, but did you know you can mix Sculpey w/Fimo to get a stronger consistency.

 Fimo has a smoother finish, bakes into a more porcelain-like product, but is heck to get started. However, there is also a Soft Fimo, which is much easier to handle, and has the same results.  My ultimate favorite, though is Super Sculpey - mainly because it's awesome for sculpting dolls - has a nice translucent porcelain finish.  It's super easy to handle (kneads nicely), and can be blended w/Fimo or Sculpey for a variety of colors.  If you're planning to start w/cakes & foods, I'd try the Sculpey/Super Sculpey blend, because if it gets too soft, it won't hold together, and may collapse in your oven.  It's all trial and error.  Some people work w/Sculpey exclusively, and have no problem.

 I think Sculpey is more for 'molding', and Fimo/Soft Fimo/Super Sculpey are better for actually sculpting/carving.  Sculpey also makes a polymer clay called Premo, which is much like Fimo, but WORSE to soften, and the colors aren't so nice.  Some people use a Food Processor to help soften/mix their clays, it's easier on the hands - if you don't want to do the 'bra' thing, just sit on it for a half an hour; it'll soften!

Also, Fimo makes patterned (mosaic & floral) bricks and cylinders for bead makers - slice them thin, and you'll have some beautiful plates and tiles already "painted".  Sorry this was so long, but that's my experience with clay.

Doll Ladie


Removing Nail Polish on Porcelain Doll: If you know the doll maker, I would ask that person what kind of paint is on the doll.  It seems to me it could be various things - acrylic paint, which can be washed off with soap and water and a toothbrush, or it could be nail polish like you said and it would come off with nail polish remover (I really don't think this would harm the porcelain any as porcelain is not porous), or it could be china paint which can be removed pretty successfully with very fine grit sandpaper if it is not a real dark color (220 grit comes to mind but I think if you have finer than that, I would try it first.

Carol Griffith


Custom Dolls from Photos: Pearl Jordan of Wee Willie Winkles makes the dolls from pictures you furnish.  Her email address is - pearljordan@yahoo.com

Mary


1/2" or 1:24 scale people: Don't forget to check out the plastic car/model railway sources. Preiser is a German company that do a lot of railway accessories, they have two kits 58000 "Adam" and 58001 "Eve" that I like. They are kitset people, anatomically correct, nude. Each kit is made up of heads, arms, torsos, legs - lots of them, enough to make about 7 people and have a few left over bits.

They also do fully assembled and dressed figures, there are also some accessory "people" for car kits available ("Campus friends" is one, I can't remember who makes it) - but they tend to be modern. The joy of the Preiser kit is being nude you can dress them for any era you want.

Sandra in New Zealand


Character Dolls: Pearl Jordan creates character dolls and will work from a photograph. She also does portrait dolls. I've seen pictures of some of them and they are incredible.

Her website is: http://members.nbci.com/pearljordan/home/

Marsha, Newark, CA


Dolls from photos: Alice Zinn (of this list) does dolls from photos. She has done some for us which turned out great.

Iamazin@aol.com

Tom Berkner


Reasonable Doll Kits - here are just a few:

http://www.darlenesdolls.com

http://www.csolve.net/~minidoll/

http://home.att.net/~cmaolson/pagethree.html

Marsha, Newark, CA


Miniatures & Dollhouses Scale Chart

3" Scale 3"1' 1/4 scale 18" dolls* Collector doll size
2" Scale 2" 1' 1/6th scale 12" dolls* Fashion doll size (Barbie)
1" Scale 1" 1' 1/12th scale 6" dolls* Most popular for dollhouses
European Scale 1 1/4" scale 8" dolls* Bobo Hennig dolls and accessories are this scale, but many work in 1" scale settings.
3/4"Scale 3/4"1' 1/16th scale 4 1/2" dolls* Lundby (Sweden) is the main manufacturer of this size. Not popular in rest of world.
1/2" Scale 1/2"1' 1/24th scale 3" dolls*
1/4" Scale 1/4"1' 1/48th scale 1 1/2" dolls*

*This is the scale size of a 6' tall person.

Tom Berkner & Anne Gerdes

Jane Walker


Making a country mini: Here's a tip for those who paint little country items, I just painted a little country doll on cardstock. I did the dress in wine, and then when that was dry, I mixed up some watered down white paint and painted a pinafore over the dress. Went back with straight white from the bottle and outlined the pinafore and it makes the pinafore look very sheer. I made a front and back of this little doll. I cut her out and glued the front and backs together. I made a tiny round base out of cardstock and painted it. When that was dry, I stuck a straight pin up through the middle and went clean through the two pieces of the doll and she stands up just fine. So if anyone out there is doing country items, thought I'd pass this tip along.

Susan in VA


Plastic boxes: The wholesale source that I use is AMAC in California. There is a $100 minimum order and 25 is the smallest amount of each style that can be ordered. They are nice to deal with and ship quick. e-mail info@amacbox.com or 1-800-852-7158

Domes: Bards 1-800-323-5499 out of Mundelein, Ill Sales@bardspro.com or www.bardspro.com I have not used this source yet, but was told they ship quick and good to deal with. They have a LOT of display stuff.

Porcelain Dolls. Beverly Parker wrote a wonderful little book about pouring, cleaning and making miniature dolls. Can't remember the name, having a senior day, but you can get the book from Jackie at House of Caron. You can also get wigging book there, pattern books as well as most of the best miniature molds. Jackie is wonderful to deal with and very knowledgeable.
http://www.houseofcaron.com 1-800-432-8992

Jan Smith in Florida


Chenille bears - teddy bears made from chenille stems, the instructions are on my website, on the projects page. http://www.pipmin.fsnet.co.uk

Alison from Accrington. UK


Ironing: I wonder if a small barrel curling iron would be useful for some of the work where an electric ironer is used. It would be good for ironing sleeves on the mini dolls, ribbon, etc.

Billie


Making Mountie Hats: I have not done Mountie hats, but have done the 1920's cloche hats which have a crown just as high. I use a thimble as a base - of course you need to go through your thimbles to find the best shape.

You need to use *wool* felt. I have never found the man-made fabric felts to do anything other than frustrate me. Wool felt will stretch properly. You shape the crown over the thimble - hmmmmm.... put something on top of the thimble first so the crown does not have a flat top. Sculpey (fired)??? Tie it tightly around the bottom of the thimble, or wherever the flare will start. Then work the brim flat.

I put a few drops of white tacky glue in my warm water to do the shaping but not enough to make a sheen on the finished felt.

Joy Parker


Badminton Birdies: Just a thought, am not sure about the size, without one to judge by, but it seems that the white part might be used in some way to serve as an underskirt to the full gowns of some of the dolls..........or is that way offscale?

Joy Lee in N.C.


I have used mica for fairy baby wings. It is extremely fragile when peeled to a transparent thickness -- much too fragile for windows in my opinion.

Anne Gerdes


MICA in old stoves: Mica used to be used in tiny viewing windows in the Parlor stove. I remember (sure dates me - sigh) my grandmother's parlor and the glowing stove gently hissing on winter afternoons...

The 'windows' were irregular looking and not more than 2 inches square... the transparent material was yellowish and was Mica.. Later in my life I found a chunk of it lying somewhere and had fun peeling it. Very delicate, Very pretty. Would be fine for DH windows if treated with a transparent glue to stabilize it.

Judie - Daytona Beach, FL


Stabilizing butterfly wings: I use a clear laquer spray to give them 2 thin coats to prevent flaking, then paint a thin layer of petal porcelain on either side to strengthen them and give the wings flexibility. The petal porcelain dries clear. If preferred you can apply 2 coats to the wings to give them strength.

Karin in South Africa


Buckles: You can make your own by bending wire into a flat figure 8 shape.

--

Sandra


Dyeing dolls hair: If it is manmade materials you should be able to color it with permanent markers. You should be able to get different colors in a craft or art supply store. It probably would work for natural fibers too.

Susan from St. Croix


This category has 487 tips of 10312 tips in the archives.

Previous 20 | Next 20


Page 15 of 25.



Search for:


Browse the database (all entries)