Dolls Page: 5 |
| Push molds: Just an idea: I think it would be easier to partially bake the first half (front half) of the face first so it won't get smashed. Then add the back of the head. Here's what I think would work: before removing the head from the mold, push short pieces of toothpick into the clay, allowing the toothpick pieces to protrude about 1/4" or so. Then remove and partially bake it (just enough to somewhat firm it). Then add clay for the back of the head (the protruding toothpick bits will help to hold the two clay pieces together while you form the back of the head. Then smooth out the clay (back of head). Remember that the wigging will cover the area where front and back head meet if you feel the joint isn't smooth. Then bake them both together until cured. I have found that rubbing a SMALL amount of vegetable oil on my finders before smoothing out the clay makes that job a bit easier. viola |
| Push molds: I used the push mold of the legs with feet to make,footstools,and tables. Just add pant legs or skirt him and attach table top. Of course you want to paint the toenails of the "her";. Fannye in TX |
Harry Potter doll...why bother making one, there is a great resin cast one that is put out as an ornament, just unscrew the little deal at the top of his head...he's holding two chemistry class flasks...that's not the scientific name for them, they look kinda like wine decanters...you can tell I didn't pay attention in my science classes! It's not the ornament where he's attached to a book...have one of those, too, but can't figure out how to separate his body from the book without losing part of his feet. Molly Cromwell |
Here are a few of the many sites that sells dolls' dolls: http://happinessisminiatures.com http://daisysdollhouseminis.com Take a look at my web page on the doll links page. Maybe you will find something there. One of my favorite to order dolls was from Sandy Dawson's photopoint site.....I don't know if she has any smaller sizes available on her web page: Nursemini |
Doll's dolls: Just want to mention the wonderful doll's dolls I bought from Frances Armstrong in Ontario, Canada. I bought a kewpie that is just a smidge over a quarter inch tall. I also bought an antique type doll in pantaloons which is less than 3/4 inch tall. Now get this - she's jointed. Her arms and legs are movable. Very, very reasonably priced. The email address is: farmstro@sentex.net http://francesarmstrong.homestead.com/ W. Marie in Edmonds, WA |
Cold Porcelain: try looking at http://petalshoppe.com to see if it is the product you want. SUSAN |
English doll kits: Someone asked the other day for an English doll kit maker. My favorite is Sue Harrington, unfortunately I can't find a web site or address for her perhaps someone out there knows if she can be contacted on the internet? Her snail mail is: Sue Harrington, 51 Old Fort Road, Shoreham Beach, Shoreham by Sea, West Sussex BN43 5RL Tel 01273 464670. She has a catalogue and her dolls are lovely. Col Sue Harrington's Dolls: Sue Harrington's doll site is at www.katysuedolls.com Christine |
Dolls for dolls: I have a number of the ones by Carol Spence Sellner (a personal favorite) and some from other artisans. The page showing these is: Carol |
½ Scale Doll Molds: Ellen in the UK wanted to know who sells and ships molds there - and wants 1/2 scale - I'm sure House of Caron has some molds in that scale - their web site is: http://www.houseofcaron.com Paulette |
Mustaches: When I made my first doll, I clipped my hair to use. didn’t know any better...it was beautiful. I thought! LOL!! However, I would say not to use your own hair. There are wonderful products available now. I use viscose or mohair for my mini dolls. here are many suppliers but Paulette Stinson, one of our list members, has a wonderful supply in many colors. This is much softer and finer than your own hair. For mustaches and beards, I cut the viscose very fine and apply it with a tacky glue. For a doll with a full fluffy beard and mustache such as Santa, you may want to curl the viscose by winding it on a small knitting needle and slightly dampen. Allow to dry. Unwind and apply to the face. Pearl |
Mustaches: Human hair is too coarse to use on miniature dolls. You'd have a terrible time trying to get it to look decent. But you can make tiny curls out of viscose, and cut short sections to glue on for a mustache and beard. Email me your home address, and I'll send you a page of instructions that include a man's hair, beard and mustache. I do sell viscose, but the instructions will work for fine mohair or silk fiber hair, as well. daintydollnews@home.com Paulette Stinson |
Mustaches. The trick is to not get them too thick. No, I don't think I'd use real hair. It's too coarse. Try viscose (daintydollnews@home.com). "D&M" had an issue on wigging a man and adding a mustache, but don't remember which issue it was in. However, if you ask for it, you can get FREE instructions with the wigging that you order from Dainty Doll) I'm not sure if it include a mustache instruction or not. Viola |
Mustaches-Beards: my friend made as a "portrait" doll to surprise her bearded husband. She noticed that her dog's hair looked a great deal like his whiskers so she clipped some and glued it to the doll's chin. It was a little finer hair than actual whiskers which worked better for the doll. SUSAN AT THE WHITE RABBIT'S HOUSE |
Doll Limbs: I never attach miniature dolls' arms and legs using pins that are cemented into the arm or leg holes, because they pop out fairly often. The holes just aren't big enough to hold the cement well. Miniature dolls' arms and legs can be attached by using Super Glue or Crazy glue to glue pipe cleaners into holes in the limbs. You'll have a lot less trouble and work, and your doll's limbs will move as much as you need them to. (Antique miniature dolls that were originally "strung" with elastic are the only ones I'd ever restring.) If you're sure you want to reuse the pin, Super Glue it back in place. To seal your green eye shadow on her face, spray with a matte acrylic sealer which you can get at a Hobby or Crafts store. Sometimes it's called a "fixative" spray. Yes, you can paint the lower legs; just use a matte enamel or acrylic paint. The acrylic paint would probably need the same sealer sprayed on it, but the enamel would not. For the shoes, glue on thin black leather and have a high tongue coming up in front with a buckle, like the Pilgrims wore. This seems to be the "in" thing for a stylish witch to wear. And yours sound like she'll be quite stylish. Hope that helps. Paulette in IN |
Doll Wigs: I got really nice doll wigs from Phyliss Hill, at Minimade Imagination Dolls: http://home.earthlink.net/~minimade/ She made them the color and style that I needed and shipped them real fast. On her web site, click on "dolls", then click on "wigs". Helen in New Jersey |
Hair Pleater: I have sold viscose for wigging miniature dolls for more than 20 years now, and I don't know of pleaters specifically for hair. All of us doll wiggers just use the same pleaters we use for fabrics and ribbons. You just wet the hair and put it into the grooves in the rubber pleater with a knife blade or thin piece of plastic (like a credit card) and wait for it to dry, or set it in a warm oven for 30 minutes. Hope that helps. Paulette |
Closed umbrella and a purse for a 4" - 8" doll: For the umbrella, open a paper clip up and straighten it out (or use a tiny dowel rod or straight piece of wire) Cut it to the length you want. If it's a fancy parasol, you can wrap narrow silk ribbon around the shaft. Glue on a pretty bead or beads for handle. Cut out a circular piece of fabric, stick the end of the shaft through the middle, and glue to hold. Then pull the fabric up and twist it to hold it tight. Glue or take a stitch around the top to hold it in place. Gather lace all around this top edge. (Kind of hard to give directions without illustrations, but I hope you get the idea) For a purse, take a little flat piece of wood or fiber board (maybe 3/4" X 1/2". (or 1" X 3/4" for the 8" doll) Cut out a piece of embroidered ribbon and wrap it completely around, gluing it down, with enough extra length to lap over in front. Glue a little piece of trim along the edge, and a bead for decoration. Glue narrow satin ribbon from one side bottom edge to the other, for a handle, and to cover sides. Paulette in IN |
Closed umbrella: If you take a round toothpick glue a bead on one end and on the other end a smaller bead. Cut a circle of fabric, place the smaller beaded end of the toothpick in center and gather the material up around the toothpick. Now wrap a piece of ribbon around the closed part of the umbrella and glue where necessary. Another way to make the handle of the umbrella is to roll a piece of black or brown bakeable modeling clay and then bend into a handle. These look really cute in a marker cap painted as an umbrella stand. Kathy from Cedar Springs |
Closed umbrella: If you take a round toothpick glue a bead on one end and on the other end a smaller bead. Cut a circle of fabric, place the smaller beaded end of the toothpick in center and gather the material up around the toothpick. Now wrap a piece of ribbon around the closed part of the umbrella and glue where necessary. Another way to make the handle of the umbrella is to roll a piece of black or brown bakeable modeling clay and then bend into a handle. These look really cute in a marker cap painted as an umbrella stand. Kathy from Cedar Springs |
Fur Coat Directions and Fabric: http://www.excel.net/~fsippel/MASupplies/Books/Creation.html Towards the bottom of the page, there is a book advertised to teach making a fur coat with directions and three samples of "fur". This doll artist does a nice job. Her fabrics are wonderful. Laurie Sisson |
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