Gentlemen's fashion website: I've just been to this delightful website about gentlemen's fashions etc. check it out http://www.lahacal.org/gentleman/index.html

Goldie Williams in Aurora, Mo.USA

Re: direction of stitches in needlepoint and X-stitch: Light reflects off of and casts shadows on the stitches, so this direction thing is important. Novice needlepointers aren't as likely to switch directions as novice x-stitchers are, but believe me, it matters which stitch is on top.

Also, where you go behind the material between stitches makes a big difference in the angle of the top stitch. After making one piece when I was a novice, I was SO puzzled to find a line across the middle of the face. I hadn't changed hanks, so I knew it wasn't a dye lot problem. FINALLY, I figured out that I had gotten bored going back and forth and had switched to going up and down. This changed the angle of the stitches and was so noticeable that it ruined the piece. Fortunately, I was so excited about the possibilities it offered that I almost didn't care. This angle thing is also true with X-stitch. It can work for you or it can work agin' you. But at least if you're aware of it, you won't end up with any really stupid looking lines through your piece!

I also experimented with using both pessimistic and optimistic stitch in the same needlepoint piece. (A "pessimistic" stitch goes from upper left to lower right; an "optimistic" stitch is t'other way 'round.) I found I could make things look more 3-D and make the difference from foreground and background more pronounced. In needlepoint, it takes some finesse to deal with the places where the stitch angle changes. In x-stitch, you just switch which stitch is on top.

I also had some real fun with multi-strand variations with my x-stitch. I usually used two strands of floss and got wonderful results simulating woven patterns (e.g., plaid!). The best thing was that, by using three shades of the color, I could get almost painterly curves, rather than the kind of paint-by-number effect one gets with a patch of color next to a patch of a different color. To do this, use your main one, plus one a shade lighter and one a shade darker. Blend the colors by changing from 2 strands of the same tone, to one of that plus one of the next, then to 2 of the next. To move from a cheekbone to the hollow of the cheek, you will have 2 strands of the lighter flesh tone on the cheekbone and move through 1+1, to 2 of the middle tone, to 1+1, to 2 of the darker tone in the hollow. It takes some concentration and planning, but the results are worth it.

BTW, when you iron your finished needlework, don't press down; just stretch it on your ironing board with pins and hold your steam iron ABOVE it, then leave it pinned until it is dry. If you iron right on it, you squash your stitches and reduce the degree to which light will play on them. My sister told me that was the dumbest thing she ever heard, but I happen to think it makes the difference between 'oh wow' and 'ho hum' results.

Chrissy the Hyphenated

Mini Knitting-Thread: Recently I was in a dressmaker's/craft shop in Montreal and happily came across Zwicky Flora Thread. It's quite similar (in thickness) to Gutterman's Top Stitching thread, which I also use for mini knitting.

Anyhow the Zwicky Flora Thread is absolutely wonderful for mini knitting. It's 100% pure silk, and you would think that because of it being all silk, it would be difficult to work with by sliding all over the needles. It's not, and it doesn't. Not at all. I first made a pair of panties with in, in racy red no less, and they came out absolutely lovely!

Because this stuff is not easy to get (at least here) I did a search on the Internet and found one place that sells it, http://www.victorianpleasures.com/

They are based in Canada and prices are in CDN$, they take phone orders, or you can print out the order form and send it off to them. And yes, they do international orders also.

Joy in Pointe Claire

Doll Supplies: Someone was looking for knitting patterns and I saw that the House of Caron had Period Patterns by Lesley Roberts. She also has the hand blown glass eyes in sizes, 2,3,4,5,6, and 8mm's. There is also a miniature eye sizer set. There are all kinds of molds for making dolls and pottery and she has Paulette Stinson's molds and pattern books. If I was a doll maker...I sure would start here first. The address is House of Caron, 10111 Larrylyn Drive, Whittier, Ca 90603. Inquiries 562-947-6753. Fax 562-943-5103 or http://www.houseofcaron.com

Jan Haring

Medieval Clothing Patterns: I have some medieval patterns of the 'easy' type on my web site (for my other hobby, historical costuming). They are on a grid,so they can be scaled up, which I imagine means that they could be scaled downas well.
http://chimericalgirl.net/costume/costume/scapatt.htm

Maura Bass

Knitting Socks: Linda: You requested information on a pair of knit socks for Santa and I took a workshop a long time ago on socks to hang on a fireplace at Christmas, but I have used it for socks for a long time. You will have to determine the size you will need as feet, of course, come in many sizes. Using a knit fabric and I find tee shirt type knits to be especially good as they have a good deal of stretch and memory, cut an oval. Just to get the handle on size, I would cut an oval about 2 inches top to bottom and about 1 1/4 in diameter.

Fold it in half horizontally and cut on the center line. Now you have a pair of socks. With the flat side to the top, fold the fabric vertically, with right sides together. Now you have a quarter oval with the flat side on the top and the fold on the left. Using a complimentary color of thread, start at the bottom point and make a small running stitch from the tip up the curve. The smaller the sock, the finer the running stitch (about a 1/8 inch seam). Tack securely at the top.

Turn the sock right side out and finger press it. When you slip it on the foot the sock will conform to the foot and look like a regular sock. The seam will be from the toe to the heel and up the center back of the sock. If this size is too small, try again with a larger oval or smaller if necessary. Warning: having a seam in the center sole of this tiny sock may cause tiny blisters, but my dolls don't seem to complain.

This same technique can be used for the Christmas stockings I mentioned earlier. Just make the sock as explained above, but cut from card stock a stocking shape. After you turn the sock right side out, you can insert the card stocking into the fabric sock and it will become shaped like a real sock and you have an open top to insert candy canes, etc.

Joanne Trainor

Pleating: You can make cartridge pleats as follows: (these will work for drapery because the pleats are not pressed flat). Cut a rectangle of fabric about 3 times as wide as the finished width plus the width of your hems and the length you need plus hems. Unless you want a raw edge for some reason, make your hems first. Run two rows of evenly spaced basting stitches along one long edge of the fabric. For both rows, the stitches should match, both running on right or wrong sides of the fabric together. The width of each stitch will determine the size of the pleats. When you have sewn both rows, pull the threads evenly to gather to the width desired. Now tack the points along one side of all the pleats evenly to a strip of fabric or interfacing to hold the pleats evenly. Cartridge pleating was done on skirts' waists during the 19the century instead of gathering because less bulk is created when the fabric is evenly folded.

I have seen diagrams in books showing how to make a home-made pleater, but you can hand pleat (tediously) knife pleats as follows: You need about three times the final width of your fabric plus the width of any hems. Work on a pinning board or ceiling tile. You will need your iron, pins, and 4 very flat, thin sticks (the width of one pleat to gauge the pleat widths and the length of your fabric). You might try slicing up a stiff piece of plastic that is about the thickness of a credit card instead of the sticks. Make any necessary hems before you begin pleating. Work with the fabric wrong side up on a pinning board or ceiling tile.

1 Lay gauge #1 near the right edge of your fabric. Lift the left end of the fabric and fold over the gauge so that it hugs the gauge in the fold and crease.
2 Lay gauge #2 directly on top of the first gauge (with the folded over fabric in between). Now fold the fabric over the second gauge (right to left) and crease.
3 Leaving gauges #1 and #2 in place, place #3 over the fabric directly to the left of the stack of #1 and #2. Fold fabric to the right and crease against gauge #3.
4 Now place gauge #4 directly over #3 (with previously folded over fabric sandwiched in between). Fold fabric over to the left and crease over gauge #4.
5 Leaving the gauges in place, press the 2 completed pleats.
6 Carefully remove the gauges from the 2 pleats and tack them to hold.
7 Moving to the left, follow the above instructions again to make 2 more pleats.
8 Repeat until you have the desired number of pleats.

While this method is quite tedious, it works. It is much easier on a narrow piece of ribbon than on a long piece of fabric, but it can be done.

Rachelle

Mother-of-pearl buttons, suitable for putting on underwear: I can't help with real, but for real looking I have made them with pearlized fabric paint in dots on plastic, when dry pick off and poke desired number of holes with needle or push pin. very real looking. Glue on with the back facing up that was stuck to plastic if you want flat buttons and use the other side if you want rounded.

Debbie

Fringing carpets: Janet Granger's book has very clear instructions for fringing stitch, Even I managed to do it right! Miniature Needlepoint Carpets by Janet Granger ISBN 1 86108 023 9
It has lovely patterns too.

Betsie

Chenille: Chenille is a thread, a fabric and chenille stems (which are made of something completely different) are pipe cleaners, both the kind for pipe and the many kinds for craft use.
The thread: actually more of a yarn, you can find it in yarn shops and Wal-Mart craft dept.
The fabric: Think bed speads and bathrobes. This is usually in rows, and would not be suitable for using for fake fur.
Pipe cleaners: I cannot imagine making furs out of them, Most these days (except for the ones made to really clean pipes) are synthetic and bristly.

Alice Zinn

Faux Fur:
http://www.dollsinminiature.com/index_e.htm
http://msatminidolls.minilists.com/index.html
We have experts in this field who comb shops in Europe for the perfect material. We do not have to reinvent the wheel on this Mink Question. Or patterns for that matter. I have given two sites. The first is a lady in Belgium who carries wonderful findings. The second is an alphabetized list of doll makers and people who have specialties such as leather or feathers to be used for doll making. The MSAT mini dolls list is a great resource for people in any stage of making a miniature doll who might need a hint or two. They also run a contest using the same format every now and then that keeps things interesting. I play there often.

Laurie Sisson

Historical Fashion Site: Tracey requested a URL for Historical Fashion. I have The Costume Page bookmarked because it is a wonderful source for all kinds of things related to costuming on the web: books, supplies, museums, etc. I think that I probably learned about the site from a posting her on Small Stuff. Anyone interested in costuming, clothing, sewing, etc., full size or mini, will appreciate this site. http://members.aol.com/nebula5/costume.html

Rachelle Spiegel

Fur: I frequently use fur in my doll making (one of my least favorite parts). I either trim rabbit fur or any other type of fur I have found at garage sales and antique shows with a scissors or just recently with a dog clipper (do outside if possible!). I have found that a lot of furs have been pieced together and are not one nice, big piece of fur. Also the fur may appear a beautiful, rich black, or brown on the top, but as soon as it's cut short, the underfur is a different shade like a gray. I usually blow on it or sweep my hand across it to see what the underfur color is.

Connie Sauve

Removing acrylic paint from Fabric: An easy and inexpensive way to remove dried acrylic paint from fabric is with rubbing alcohol. You can also clean your brushes with it. If the paint has dried just pour some alcohol into a cup and soak the brush (or fabric) for a while, then rinse. It works wonders and can save an expensive brush with very little effort. I was taught this trick when I took tole painting classes.

Karen Golomb

Removing acrylic paint: Acrylic paint can only be removed mechanically (scraped off) when dry and the remains by using acetone. But acetone may leave a stain.

Marcella

Metho: 'Metho' is short for metholated spirits. I think it may be called 'denatured alcohol' in the US. It consists of ethanol (the kind of alcohol you can drink) mixed with methanol (wood alcohol)... Adding methanol makes the mixture poisonous. Me, I *hate* the smell of metho, so I use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.

Charlene

Bunka: When Bunka is hard to unravel, poke into the end with a pin or needle and pull apart the knitting till you get a nice string showing, then pull on that string.

MAP in Puyallup

Special Fabrics: If you contact rwk@rt66.com she will silk screen a piece of fabric (your choice of fabric, and your design) for a very reasonable price.

Viola

Costumes: This is a great site for those of you who like to dress your own dolls...loads of ideas to work with and loads of links too. http://www.costumes.org/

Sheena Cain

Miniature Knitting & Rug Supplies Homepage: This is a site with lovely patterns, materials and very fine needles as well. There are also some very sweet tiny dolls. I ordered from this site before and the service is very quick. I think it is worth having a look. http://www.minknit.freeserve.co.uk/

Marianne