China Silk: Habutai silk is a bit heavier than China silk. I don't think that most fabric places today even know the various kinds of silk (or other exotic fabrics and finishes) that one can find in a textile book and used to be able to buy in stores. China silk is very, very thin, and transparent, and so light that yards and yards of it hardly weigh on your hand. It has an ethereal quality to it. Tracey, what was it you need the China silk for? If for mini dresses, I would even think that a heavier silk like the Habutai would be better, as it wouldn't be 'see-through' and might drape a bit better. There are loads of very light silks used for blouses and they (used blouses) are easily found in thrift shops here, and cost relatively little.

Rose

Tapestries: check upholstery stores. There are some great materials and sometimes you can get leftovers or scraps free.

Susan Hanks

Separating Embroidery Floss: Cut a length of floss and lay it on a flat surface. On the end you DID NOT cut separate one thread (in other words the beginning of the skein), place your fingers of the other hand gently on all the threads and then pull gently on the thread you are removing. It will slide out and the others will bunch up, but not tangle. You can then lay the remaining floss flat and repeat. It is important as to which end you pull the thread, the floss is twisted together and it works better if you have the right end. I have never used floss for anything besides granny squares and they require only a small amount. It is great for that because you can get so many colors and since I do counted cross-stitch I have a lot of it around. I'm not sure that you can separate more than a couple feet of floss at a time, it might tangle. When I do a blanket or afghan in one or two colors I use tatting thread, fine crochet thread, sewing thread or very fine yarn. Some of the yarn they make for home knitting machines is very fine and easy to work with. I've made some very nice afghans out it. You can also separate regular hand knitting yarn, but again it is best to separate as with the floss.

Marsha in WI

Separating Embroidery Floss: To separate embroidery thread (yarn, etc.) make some bobbins out of cardboard in a design (somewhat) as shown below.

1. I took a hole punch to nibble out the 'x' areas in center and at bottom...

2. By making a simple straight cut from top edge ( between the [] 's) into area cut out ( 'x' ed area ) .... you can gently slip thread, yarn etc. between cardboard and it will hang without unrolling.

3. Anchor thread when you begin to wind by making a cut mark up a half inch or so from the bottom indented area......or you could tape the end to cardboard.

           [           []           ]    < between  [] just make a

simple cut that opens

            [           []           ]           into the 'x' area that

you cut out

            [    [xxxxxxxx]    ]    < cut out 'x' area

            [    [xxxxxxxx]    ]

            [                         ]

            [                         ]

            [                         ]

            [  --------------  ]

            [___[xxxxxxx]___]

                     /\ ....cut out 'x' area

I use this type of bobbin to wind yarn on when I am braiding my mini rugs no fuss, no tangle....... Hope someone can find useful....... Of course, one could go out and buy something like this at a store, but I don't get out much, and don't have to feel guilty spending $$$$$ on something I can make.

Bobbie

Separating Embroidery Floss: Many are not aware of this, but thread has a straight of the grain in it also. To find it out hold each end of the thread in your hands tightly, and run it over your chin. One way, then back again. You will more than likely feel a smooth direction and a nubby one.

Make sure you use the thread with the smooth direction going into your project first. This little hint will help your project from knotting up on you so much, and prevents you from saying THOSE WORDS accidentally! Same goes for sewing thread when you are hand sewing.

Lisa Lynn

Crochet Thread: try tatting thread for miniature crochet, it's easier to use than embroidery thread.

Kari in Sacramento, CA

Crochet Patterns: Did you know that Dolls & Miniatures had several 1" scale crochet patterns? If you want to find out about them, go to www.dollsminiatures.bigstep.com and click on Dolls and Miniatures and then check out the various issues to see which have crochet projects. Also, Joy sells pattern for mini crochet an I think, also mini knitting. She can be reached at: joy@swallowhilldolls.com also http://swallowhilldolls.com

Viola Williams

Yo-Yo Quilt: I did not see the original post by the person asking about yo-yo quilts but will give the only description that I know. A yo-yo is a circle of material which is sewn around the edge with a gathering stitch then pulled to form a circle. They were then sewn together to form the quilt. Some chose to sew the yo-yos to a solid piece of material to make a backing. A variety of sizes were used, depending on what was going to be made from them. Yo-Yos were also sewn together to make pot holders and vests. When I was a child, this was one of the methods by which we were taught to sew. I make yo-yo quilts in 1" and 1/2" scale. I have not made them in ¼ scale yet but am going to try that too. They are a lot of fun to make!

Linda B

Yo-Yo Quilt: The yo-yo quilt pattern is very old, they are made (in life size) by cutting out circles of about 4 inches in diameter (or larger if you want), folding down a hem all around the circle, then sewing a running stitch all around the outside of the circle, then pulling it in taut to form the yo-yo. Tie off the thread and when you have many hundreds of these made, you sew them together, first in a long string, then sew the strings together, so that each yo-yo is sewn to the next. It will look like the yo-yo's are sewn to each other in the north, south, east and west position. They look great in their multi-colors, and look better if they have a colored sheet or coverlet underneath them, as the color will show through in the spaces between the yo-yo's.

In 1994, for Mother's Day, my favorite paternal aunt, who is an award winning quilter in life size, made me a yo-yo quilt in miniature. She said she started with fabric circles about the size of a nickel, then made them just like the full size one. The yo-yo's are about 3/8 inch in diameter and in this tiny quilt, which fits a mini double bed, there are 99 tiny yo-yo's. What a treasure!

Patty Adamson in Bandera TX

Yo-Yo Quilt: Yo-yo quilts are sometimes also called Suffolk Puffs.  I have just completed a single bed quilt for my dh.  As an ex-patch-worker I have plenty of small sample squares - an Australian 10 cent coin is just under 1" and made puffs a bit less than 3/8" across. Cut the circles out about 4 layers thick (any more and they tend to become misshapen) They are gathered around the outside, folding in a small seam allowance (slightly less than 1/8th inch )  To join together start by threading a knotted thread inside a puff and out on one side, join to next puff with two tiny over sew stitches, finish by pushing the needle across inside the second puff and out on the opposite side (be careful not to pull the thread too tight through the puff). The quilts can be just a scrap quilt of all colors, but I have seen old photos where they were formed into patterns - a central block of 16 puffs surrounded by a different color, or a band of solid puffs around a row or two on from the outer edge.  It is usually best to use 100% cotton, but a synthetic which doesn’t fray and is easy to handle may make a less bulky puff.  The full size were usually attached to a backing but my mini quilt has enough body without this.

Robyn in Australia

Velvet Drapes: I have a great tip for all of you with regard to draping certain fabrics, especially those like velvet which you do not want to use a product like Stiffy on. I have use this method to do velvet drapes for Sherlock Holmes flat and even to pleat a kilt for a little Scottish doll. Spread the back of the fabric with a thin layer of tacky glue, then stick it to HEAVY DUTY aluminum foil (made by Reynolds, mostly for use in barbecuing) Let it dry, then fold as you wish, and folds will stay as you bend them. You can even "puddle" draperies onto the floor without that awful look that minis often have, where you just KNOW that gravity isn't working on them as it should!

Alice Zinn - Pt. St. Lucie FL

Miniature Iron: I used a really neat miniature iron at a recent workshop for ironing miniature clothing. It had a small spade shaped foot and otherwise looked like a curling iron. The only name I could find was Clover. Anyone know where this item could be purchased?

***** Note from Joy Perkins ***** I have one of these miniature irons. They are sold in Quilt specialty shops...Maison Calico in Pointe Claire, Quebec sells them and are $50CDN with tax...and well worth it if you do mini sewing. *****

Shirley

Silk Hats: Here's how I make them:   I iron stiff fusible Pellon to the silk.   Cut out the shape wanted.   Then I rub tacky glue (making sure I don't use too much glue) onto the Pellon side of that piece.. I even rub the glued side onto wax paper to remove any excess glue.   Then I lay it, glued side down, to another piece of silk and iron the pieces together.   Next-- cut the second piece of silk to match the shape of the first one and glue bunka or other trim over the raw edges.  

For a really stiff brim, you can glue the silk pieces to card stock.   Then roll a dowel or pen over the pieces to help break down the cardstock fibers so you can shape the brim.

Viola

Working with leather.   If you are molding leather over a form of some sort then you want time to move it and adjust it.   In which case you want a glue that lets you slide the leather a bit rather than one that grabs immediately.   Mix starch paste with alkaline wood glue in the proportions 50/50.   I use it all the time for bookbinding full scale and minis.

TIP:   If you are working with leather and you want the APPEARANCE of stitched leather, run it through your sewing machine with no thread. It punches the holes nice and even.   Then glue as you would normally. It gives a lovely faux stitched edge.

Barbara B from South Africa

Glass Slippers: You are not going to have any luck drilling plastic because it will frost on you.   The heel could be cut from an acrylic rod that framers use to keep photos   separated from the glass.  I would go with the heavier clear plastic from a cheap travel case...cut the toe  to instep piece then overlap with the heel piece. Glue the shoe together using clear silicone. Decorate with rhinestones. I was going to suggest coating the shoe but I don't think you will need to. The shoe will be very wearable and the heavy plastic is not unlike leather for working when you use the silicone.

Laurie Sisson

Floppy tassel report: A while back I asked for advice on making miniature tassels that were actually floppy. I received a number of suggestions and after much trial and error have now been able to make some silk pillows with properly floppy tassels. I wanted to share the advice that I received and what has actually worked. It turns out to be one of those things where miniaturizing creates unique problems and no one idea works on its own.

If you want just the illusion of floppy tassels then that is easier: incorporate fine beading wire, or the wire from the edge of wired ribbon (already nicely covered and disguised) into the hanging cord of your tassel. You can then place the tassel how you like.

For truly floppy tassels it is a bit more involved. Tassels that would be 3" to 4" long in real life do not have enough weight in miniature to flop, so I have been incorporating tiny beads into the tassel head for added weight, and they look nice too.

The tassel cannot be attached right up against the pillow otherwise it just sticks out; it needs a length of thread out from the pillow to allow it to dangle and flop; the length of this is a matter of experimentation and personal preference. The hanging thread needs to be as flexible as possible. The only thing that I have found to be sufficiently flexible is silk thread, separated down to its smallest stranding. This means untwisting and separating it one step further than you would normally do for petit point, so that it is no longer plies twisted together. You then need to dampen and iron these strands to straighten them further. I worked out that any time threads are plied or twisted together, the twist adds rigidity, which is want you want to avoid to have your tassels be able to flop. You can separate DMC down to this level but it is then not strong enough, and just pulls apart when you try and do anything with it.

Wendy in Clinton, NJ

- Vilene is used in sewing to give some body to lightweight fabric, I think it is called Wonder Under in the USA. It is an iron-on product that looks like tough tissue paper and one side has a layer of adhesive on which is placed on the fabric and pressed with an iron, preferably a steam one.

- Lawn is a very fine cotton fabric, such as is used for handkerchiefs, Liberty's of London are very famous for their lawn fabrics, but you must have something similar over there.

Maureen in Hemel, UK

Silk Felt: I know it as silk paper.

The method I've used needs unspun silk and cellulose adhesive. Silk tops, noils and throwsters' waste work. In the UK you can buy them from Texere Yarns in Bradford. You can use wallpaper paste but paste without fungicide is better.

You also need some netting - old nylon lace curtains work fine, or you could use old window screens - two pieces each a little bigger than the size of the "felt" you want to make.

- Make up the paste. It needs to be slightly runny.

- Put one piece of netting flat on a waterproof work surface. Holding the mass of the silk in your left hand, pull tufts out of it with your right hand. The tufts will have fibers aligned along their length. Lay the fibers on the netting with all the fibers running in the same direction. Do a row and then start again further down, overlapping them a little like roof tiles.

- When you've covered the area you want, add another layer with the fibers at right angles to the previous layer.

- When the layers are thick enough (they go a lot thinner when the felt's finished) put the second piece of netting on top.

- Now the messy bit: spoon or scoop some paste onto the top of the netting. Rub and pat it, adding more paste, until the whole thing is saturated. Wash your hands before you stick to everything!

- Leave it to partially dry then remove both pieces of netting before they become completely stuck. That's it!

It dries stiff. Soaking it in water will release the paste. If you decide, after it's dried, that it isn't thick enough, you can just add more layers on top.

You can:

- Mould the partially-dry (but still flexible) felt over a bowl or similar object that you have covered with Clingfilm.

- Add snippets of thread, coloured silk fibers, torn scraps of paper, bits of gold leaf, skeleton leaves, flower petals and anything else you can think of to the felt - but cover them with a very thin layer of fibers to hold them.

- Take off the top layer of netting after you've worked the paste in and manipulate it with your hands, add ripples and textures.

- Make some parts very sheer and some parts heavy.

- Dye some or all of the fibers before you start.

- Paint the finished article with acrylics (but don't over-work the surface or the paste will start melting!)

- Emboss the top layer with heavy lace, stamps, kitchen implements.

- Embroider it ...

Sally Holmes, Wakefield, West Yorkshire, England

needlepoint rug kits: all our kits are well within your budget, so why not have a look? There are several oriental ones, as well as other popular styles, and many other ideas for needlepoint items, too. Web site: http://www.janetgranger.co.uk

chris

Needlework rugs: You might try contacting Bunny Papke of Distincitve Needlework for needlepoint rug kits. You can get just the pattern for about $10.00 or the whole kit for $15.00, up to $50, depending on the pattern.. Her snail mail address is:
6516 Pine Park Place NE
Albuquerque, NM
87109

Pat