Crochet: you're getting lots of sources for crochet patterns, as a weaver I've found the hardest part of making miniatures can be finding the right yarn. I've got lots of colors of punch needle yarn on my web site http://weevings.com , it's a fine-but-fuzzy yarn that's a little finer than embroidery floss, but looks more like wool. And while you're there, do check out the doilies my friend in Finland crochets. She uses Gutterman silk sewing thread, which you may find in the quilting department of craft stores, or at sewing machine dealers. The hook she's using for the doilies is a #16, I believe, which you can get from Sandy's Lace and Trim. For patterns, my friend has mostly used full sized patterns, making modifications as needed. If you use regular sewing thread, try for all cotton, the polyester has "memory" that makes it want to stay straight, but with cotton, you can 'block' your work after it's made. Rayon sewing thread is made in lots of colors now, but the shine may not be appropriate for whatever you have in mind. I've got some very (very) fine wool and cashmere for weaving, mostly natural/cream, contact me privately if you're interested.

Bonni

Cleaning Old Lace: these directions will work for both cotton and linen lace, but i have not used this technique for silk and so would not recommend it. Soak overnight in a solution of a gallon cool water and 1 pint hydrogen peroxide (the regular stuff that you can get at the pharmacy). Rinse carefully in cool water, then press using an iron set appropriately to the fabric.

Maura Bass

Cleaning Old Lace: You could try bleach, but sometimes it eats fabric and thread, especially OLD fabric and thread. Instead, try Grandma's trick. Soak it in lemon juice diluted with water and hang it out in the sun.

Nancy

Cleaning Old Lace: If you have a swimming pool - just dip it in swirl it around and leave it in the sun. Even if the pool water doesn't do the job - the sun will. Did my daughter in law's Christening dress and it's gorgeous.

Gail

Cleaning Old Lace: I would use a non-bleach stain remover like "Shout". If it doesn't work, then you can try watered-down bleach, but the lace actually looks better aged, and yellowed or brown. In fact, I dip lace into tea or coffee on purpose sometimes to get that antique look for using on antique dolls.

Paulette in Indiana

Cleaning Old Lace: There are a couple of products that do very well with old, washable lace or other material. The one I have used a lot is Biz, one tablespoon in a gallon of hot water. soak material till water cools, rinse and repeat if necessary. The other is Oxyclean. we have tried this with things for our rummage sale and it works very well.

Susan in OR

Stitching: I am pretty seasoned at cross stitch and other needle arts, but do mostly full-size stitching (although I'm partial to 1 over 1 on 22ct hardanger). I've done several projects in that size, and find that two strands of cotton thread is too much, so I'd use only one strand on anything smaller. The stuff I've done that small has been almost exclusively cross stitch, so you might want to consider that technique. I did one tiny project on a 50+ count even-weave, and on that one, the crossed-stitches were too much; but it might be something to consider for the 40-50 count. By all means, use a smaller size needle if you can find it, but I've rarely (if ever) seen sizes 30 and above in a tapestry needle. You might want to go to a quilting sharp. (ball point if you can find it). What brand of thread are you using? I don't think you can go with a much smaller than size 28 tapestry needle using 1 strand of cotton embroidery floss; but other fibers might give you more flexibility. Check out some rayon. That might be what you're looking for. I have to admit I'm not as experienced with silk as I'd like to be. Something like DMC's Flower thread might give you more coverage. One ply of a very small woolen might also work better than cotton. But use relatively short lengths (probably not more than 6 or 8 inches), as they would otherwise tend to fall apart due to the friction of pulling through the gauze.

Joanne in MD

Stitching: A couple of useful places with tips on sewing on silk gauze are Theresa Rae Venette's site, which has loads of info, articles, kits, charts, links, etc that you may find interesting, especially a page on working on silk gauze: http://www.shakespearespeddler.com/silkgauze.html. Another nice site belongs to 'CameoRoze', or Margaret Davaz. She has a complete page on the subject: http://www.cameoroze.com/welcome/tips/silk.htm. We can tell you that sewing on 32 count silk gauze is really easy with a single strand of Anchor stranded cotton, using a size 26 needle - that's the combination Janet chose for her new bellpull kits. You may also like to know (in answer to a recent question on SS) that we now stock pieces of 32 count silk gauze in handy sizes, so it's easy to get that type, at least!

Janet Granger, Staffordshire, England

Blind Stitch: This is a technique that is done to make a seam "invisible", i.e. the thread joining the pieces can not be seen. What is basically done is to have the thread travel mostly behind the fold of the fabric, bringing the needle up every so often and burying it again on the other side straight across from where you brought the needle out, catching as little fabric as possible on each pass. It is difficult to describe clearly (though if you imagine a Greek key design, that is a good image), but the end result is an invisible seam line like one would get if they had sewn the piece right sides together and then turned it out. We were taught it was called a "blind stitch", but of course it may have other names as well.

Kim From Canada

Miniature Socks: http://www.socknitters.com/PATTERNS/minisock.htm The above link is for knitting miniature socks, you gotta see these little things if you are into mini knitting. I have a feeling that with our small needles and the flower thread or something close to that, you might get a decent looking adult-sized mini sock. I for one am going to try it!

Joy in Pointe Claire

Miniature Socks: http://www.teleport.com/~noelvn/socks/2-needle_style.html These are my favourite cause I can't knit with 4 needles to save my life. But there is one pattern there for mini socks, only on two needles...and using our small needles ... well, you know the rest.

Joy in Pointe Claire

Cross Stitch: Paula Vaughan, does have her own web site http://paulav.com. It shows some beautiful work and also has a listing of all available crossstitch designs. The one that was mentioned is called Through a Mothers eyes, I have the kit and it would make a great mini scene. There is also a matching one called Through a Father's Eyes. One of the newest designs is called Granny's Attic, there is a picture on the web site - two girls playing dress up with granny looking on smiling in the mirror. If I can ever work out how to do the mirror bit I would love to do one of these scenes in a room box. There is also another cross stitch site called http://debbiepatrickdesigns.com These are all real oldAmerican Victorian and Queen Anne houses that have been replicated into cross stitch. I have just bought five of the designs with the intention of eventually having a separate room for my houses with the crossstitch pictures on the walls. A warning though when you see some of the houses - I now want a dollhouse like some of the real ones LOL Actual prints are also available from both sites so if this type of house is your thing and you don't like to do cross-stitch you can still have some beautiful pictures. I have no connection to either of these people (I wish!!) but the services are wonderful, postage minimal (as an overseas buyer) and have had many happy and lustful hours looking at them.

Yvonne - NZ

Silk Gauze Needlepoint: a couple of things regarding wee mini needlepoint. First, notice that a single ply of floss is not the same thickness as a single ply of silk. Well. At least not if we're talking about either DMC or Anchor floss and Au Ver a Soie stranded silk-those are the products I'm familiar with. The single ply of silk is somewhat fatter than the floss. I have done quite a bit with 40 and 44 mesh; beyond that my eyes will not cooperate, even with a Dazur lamp! One ply silk seems just right to me on the 40 and 44 mesh; perhaps as you go from there to 50 and more, you'll find the single of floss is just right. You do have to experiment and do what works. Secondly, remember to stitch in such an order that your needle always (or almost always) comes up in an EMPTY hole; that's one of several reasons why basket weave is preferred over Continental stitch. I suspect that would solve your problem with the nubbies. Your choice of a #28 tapestry needle sounds about right-#26 would be okay too.

MCSTITCHIN

Table Runner: Iron your fabric onto lightweight iron-on interfacing before you cut it out, and it won't fray as badly. This will have the added benefit of keeping it flat. You may also want to glue Bunka or embroidery floss to the edges to finish it and provide a bit of trim.

Maura Bass

Fraying Fabric: We of the kite making hobby use a hot knife to cut kite material that is woven; such as rip-stop-nylon. These "knives" come as attachments to soldering pencils (irons). It cuts and seals as it is moved along the material. I do not know if it would work on natural fibers but its great on synthetics.

DrBob

Pillows: What are your opinions on sewing? You could get some smallish print leopard/tiger/zebra print fabric, and cut two squares out of it that are ¼ inch larger all the way around than you want the pillow to be. Then fold over the edges to 1/4 inch, iron to make a crease. Pin the two pieces wrong sides together, and blind stitch the edges. I like to start in the middle of one edge, so I won't have to fiddle with an imperfect corner. Go all the way around the edge back and leave a hole for stuffing the pillow. Stuff with polyfil (quilt batting, even seeds or rice). If using the batting, use a pair of tweezers to stuff, getting into the corners. This method is handy when making a needlepoint pillow as well.

Kim From Canada

Crochet: do you have the Dover book Miniature Crochet and Knitting for Dollhouses? If you don't have a local bookstore, they have a web site now, http://www.doverpublications.com; I found it under Crafts in the needlework section. Dover has lots of very reasonable books for miniers. I don't have the patience for crochet myself, but got the book and asked my mother to make a bedspread, which is magnificent.

Loretta Sniarowski

70’s Style Shag: Today I installed the shag carpeting in my That 70s House on Sorority Row.

Using a tip I saw in the SS archives I went to the dollar store and bought four cheap terry cloth towels in the colors I wanted. Cost: $4.Then I attached a nice sized section of each to poster board using 3M Super77 spray adhesive. I made paper templates of the room floors. Then I used my templates to cut out the carpet sections to the correct sizes. Then some fine trimming and they were in place. I may use a bit of Yes glue to tack them to the floor. I am really pleased with how they look. Perfect scale "shag" look I was going for. Total cost to carpet the 4 rooms: $6 including the cost of the cardboard. I plan on using wrapping paper for the bathroom floor and printable tiles for the kitchen. I have some nice drapes I hung and will be making some tie-die curtains or swags for the "hippie" bedroom.

John Medeiros

The difference between wool felt and craft felt: Wool is a natural product and so nice to work with, it's very soft and thinner. When you form it wet and let it dry it stays exactly the way you form it, not so with polyester felt. When it dries it relaxes and does not keep its shape. It feels hard and is thicker so a real bear to work with.

Acrylic felt (and it usually is marked with a tag) is a fair substitute for wool and works up pretty good, just takes a little more tugging to get the wrinkles out.

The cost of wool felt is just too high for hobbies.

Helen

Making a cape: I made a hooded cape for a medieval scene and it occurred to me the same process would work for a rain cape if you use very thin plastic, like the yellow plastic covering which is on our newspaper on rainy days. It's thin and in scale. For what it's worth, here are directions on making a contrived cape, which hangs from a hook in my setting.

MATERIALS: Pinning board, covered with wax paper. I use an old macramé board, which is very handy because it is marked in 1 inch squares. Pin on a sheet of graph paper if yours isn't marked. Board can also be made of a piece of ceiling tile or cork, etc.

Ball-headed pins. Regular will do.

Tacky glue (I use a thin piece of cardboard, like a business card, to spread the glue)

Scissors

Fabric

DIRECTIONS: 1. Cut two half circles, one about a third as big as the other. This gives you two arcs which will form the hood and the cape. I don't have precise measurements; I just eyeball it.

2. Form the cape body first. Put a thin coat of Tacky glue on back of the larger semicircle and spray very lightly with water. Stick a pin in your pinning board and drape this half-circle from it, straight edge at top, pulling the folds to look like realistic natural draping. Pin the dip in each fold. Hang something from a hook or a chair back as a model, or look at a picture of hanging clothing in a magazine. You are aiming for the effects of gravity.

3. Put a thin coat of Tacky glue on back of the second half-circle and spray lightly. Lay the straight side of the arc over the neck of the draped cape. Sort of cup the curved edge until it looks reasonably like a hood and poke it gently down into one or two of the cape's folds. Tuck under or snip away excess and pin in place. When you are satisfied with the shape (it will look somewhat like a triangle), leave it to dry, then hang from your hook or chair back. I have used this same process to make other hanging garments. If you want the effect of separate sleeves, make tubes of fabric, add lace or ruffles or cuffs, etc., and glue in folds of draped garment. I've also made collars in place of the hood, using lace, etc. The coat of Tacky on back of the fabric generally keeps it from unraveling. You may need to trim away some raveled edges after your garment dries.

This is not precision crafting. I don't usually even make patterns, just fold, tuck and snip away what I don't want. It's just the illusion we're aiming for.

Wanna in El Paso