Pattern Drafting: I've also been busy  with my forthcoming book on pattern making and have the start of a section to be previewed at: http://www.geocities.com/tinyclothessue

When I get done with that it will be COMPLETE instructions on measuring and drafting a pattern for a child doll of any size. I'll also be posting a preview of the grading book so that you can grade patterns smaller than 1" scale although I think the only nut in this world that'd do that is my younger sister!

Tiny Clothes Sue

San Francisco Fabric Shop: Thanks so much to all the folks who knew the store I'm looking for is Britex  Fabrics at 146 Geary Street, San Francisco, CA 94108: by phone: 415-392-2910:

by fax: 415-392-3906:

by e-mail:  info@britexfabrics.com

They have a mail order service as well for those not able to visit in person.

Exploring their web site I found some very interesting links others may wish

to explore. http://www.britexfabrics.com/links.htm

Pat  in SC

Fabric Ceiling: I used blue cotton with tiny stars on the ceiling of an artists bedroom this week. which matched a similar wallpaper that I printed out from MSAT cutouts. a site the newer members should investigate for over 800 free printouts and growing. it is located on yahoo clubs . the artists will try to make up items requested in minis. I used tacky glue and pre cut the fabric .to get a good edge i used the wall paper printed on cardstock in the same pattern on the upper wall. then a mural found on a real world art site to circle the mid wall then a chair rail to cover the seam to the lower wall paper. You could print out a wall paper onto fabric to make a similar combination. there is June Taylor fabric paper in WalMart. It is expensive but the easiest way to do the fabric printing.

Jane in Arkansas

Problems with pleaters: If you are using the smaller pleaters that the skewers do not fit, keep your old credit cards/store cards. SCRATCH OFF THE MAGNETIC STRIP, then use the cards as extra formers. It is surprising how quickly you can collect these cards, adding also the free ones that come through the post. You could also cut in half the free cd's that you get and use them too.

Colette in Dubai

Needlework: I think the best thing to do is work one color at a time in a single area, I use about 20 squares x 20 squares.  I have a separate needle for each color, which helps it to go quickly.

Sharon in Watsonville CA

Quilt batting: Plain flannel works well for very thin batting. I have used it for my mini quilts and it is just the right thickness. I have pressed my quilts or added a couple of stitches to make the quilt lay just right.

Mary Jensen

Needlework:  I was taught to do all of one color in each motif then move on to the next. In counted cross stitch you need to be sure to count carefully or you will be finding yourself pulling out stitches or adapting the design to your mistakes.

Rusty

Needlework: Some people use a different threaded needle full for each colour, and pick up/or drop a colour as it arises.  Wow - I can't do that myself.

      Personally I use up a whole needleful of one colour at a time, because I find it easiest.  I always do the pattern first, and then the background, and I always try to come 'up' in an empty hole.. to non-needle people, embroidery and needlepointing are an up /down process rather than a surface process for most (not all) stitches.

      If you are a newbie, and your work is messy, keep at it, don't be discouraged.  With practice, your work will look the same back and front, and like riding a bicycle or swimming, you'll wonder what your problem was. (Oh please! if you can neither swim nor ride a bike, don't write and tell me what a fathead I am - I know I'm daft).  And if some wiseacre criticizes the back of your work, smile like a crocodile and ask them to show you how to do it properly.  With luck, you may learn some great techniques.

Helen from York, England

Quilt batting--you might try dryer lint if you want a thin, yet fluffy and pliable batt. Just like the frontier ones. It will settle some, but would allow hand quilting without quite the stiffness of synthetic fiber. If you later wash it, you can get that "aged" (lumpy) look, too! It also holds the bed form better when dried out again.

Xmas Carol

Needlework: I wouldn't call myself an "expert" (because I keep learning new tips all the time, so I can't know it all if there's still much to learn), but in answer to your question: It's just fine to complete a whole patch of color before changing threads. The reason why a lot of designs require you to start in the center is simply that it is easy to find the center of both fabric and pattern. It just gives you a starting point. As for the mess on the back, I have heard a real expert (instructs classes of stitchers) claim that as long as your stitching sits flat it doesn't matter what the back looks like. But then again, every time you show a fellow stitcher some work you've done the first thing they'll do is flip it over to see the back!!!

Elli

Bunka: From my understanding there are more than 300 colors of Bunka to choose from. I carry only about 35 of them. If you are looking for a large quantity of certain colors you might check with Sandy's Lace and Trim. Check with your local mini store first.

Jackie

Draping Bed Linen: A tip that I read in one of the magazines, but haven't tried myself yet, was to put a layer of thin tin foil under the material and then a layer of "Wonder Under" or whatever the iron-on stuff is called, depending on where you live. Iron it and then fold it over your bed and arrange the folds.

Sharon Begley

Draping Bed Linen: I use water in a spray bottle. I make the bedspread, curtains, etc., then hang or drape them where they will be, hang a couple of clothespins on strategic places, cover non-waterproof items with waxed paper, then spray a fine mist. I have my maid's room quilt balanced on a can of beans as we speak (you know what I mean), with clothespins holding it the way I want it to dry. Works even with wool, just don't get it too wet.

Sharon Begley

Draping Bed Linen: You could try soaking your fabric in very dilute PVA glue and then draping fabric over the bed, covered in cling film to protect it. Arrange the cloth in folds and leave to dry. Then remove it, strip off the film and replace the cloth on the bed. Spray starch is supposed to work as is steaming the cloth in place.

Frances

Draping Bed Linen: Try spray starch and hold in the desired position until starch dries.

Besides spray starch, try your hair spray. Spray the material to be draped and hold it some way in the position you want it until the spray "sets." It makes a good glue also. I used it to keep my foam rubber handlebar rests in place on my bike. Works like a charm. Just spray the handle bars and while still wet, slip on the foam tube and when it dries you will not budge it.

Bob in Hollywood, FL

Bedding. I would make up a 'mock' bed of polystyrene and cover this with cling film. I would then place the bed covers on this as if it was the bed being dressed. I would then arrange and pin the covers in place and spray the corners and sides only so they look 'right' Dry with a hairdryer to 'set' then leave to dry completely on its own. The hairdryer can only dry the top material, not the underneath. When completely dry, take out the pins and place the bedding on your bed. If you have made the 'mock' bed to the correct dimensions then the draped bedding should fit perfectly. If you wanted, you could use watered down Stiffy, watered down Aleene's or starch. Water the glue and Stiffy down at least 8 parts water to 1 part of glue. Place in a spray bottle and shake the mixture well before use. MARK the bottle 'Stiffy' or whatever so you know what's in it! 4 years ago I was making drapes and I spent all day spraying then and using the hairdryer to set them but they just wouldn't set. I suddenly realised I was using Mr. Muscle, which is why I nowlabel the bottle!

Hazel

Draping Bed Linen: To keep coverlets and table covers from sticking out, I carefully glue a wire, usually 24 ga.(depends on the weight of the fabric) into the bottom edge. You can then bend the edge into folds for a nice drape.

Sharon

Mini fringe: While grosgrain is one method for making fringe, if you can find the real RAYON seam binding, try that. You will get a softer fringe, one which I really like much better.

Earlene Lane

Mini fringe: If the fringe needed is to go on a country type item, don't overlook unbleached or natural muslin. If you don't have the selvage, create one with glue.

Alice W

Fringe: I have successfully used grosgrain for fringe. You have to cut one side of the finished edge off the length of the ribbon and then 'fray' the threads that run the length of the piece to form fringe. You must leave the other side (lengthwise) in tact to hold the fringe together

Irene Petrie