Solar Active Thread: There is a new product out called SolarActive thread which is used for machine embroidery.  When the tread is exposed to light, it changes to vivid colors from pale (almost white).  URL is http://members.aol.com/solaractiv/blaze.htm

I was just wondering if anyone on the list has any ideas how this neat item could be adapted to use in miniature.

Anita Myers

Printing on pictures on fabric: Scan your pictures and then resize them, using Adobe or other photo software that comes with the scanner, to the size you want, or alternately, photograph them and then scan them and resize them if necessary. Buy Computer Printer Fabric from Walmart (4 sheets per package for $4.00) and print the scan onto the printer fabric, using your *Best* printer quality setting. Seal the fabric with a printer sealer spray that they sell especially for this purpose, in fabric stores, so that the ink with remain vivid and loose it's intensity.

Roz Weitzman

Photocopy onto fabric: I’ve tried the store bought iron on fabric sheets at Wal-Mart. Didn’t have much luck with them, either my iron was too hot or too cool. I iron cotton-poly blend material on freezer paper that’s been cut into 8 1/2"x11"sheets to fit my printer and print away.  I have made several memory quilts for family. I usually heat set with an iron. This is much cheaper too. I have printed some mini rugs and quilts onto this freezer paper too.

Pat Thompson

Silk Gauze Work: I'd be glad to help you with working on silk gauze, if I can. I don't exactly understand your problem with the stitches showing on the back of the gauze. They will show, of course -there's no way to avoid that so maybe you're thinking something is wrong when it really isn't. Or are you talking about when you "carry" the thread from one point on the gauze to another and that trailing thread shows through from the front? If that's the problem, there are two solutions - either don't carry the thread at all (which can be a real pain) or fill in the entire background when you are finished with the design. For example if it's a sampler, you could fill in the background with a cream or tan or whatever would look good.

Mary Lynne Simpson

Freezer paper:  First I cut my freezer paper into 8 1/2 x 11 inch pieces. I usually do a dozen or more pieces at a time, as I seem to use them rather quickly.  I use bleached muslin fabric, [but have use old cotton bed sheets, if they’re not too worn thin] I get my iron good and hot, then place the freezer paper, shiny side down, onto the fabric, then press the paper onto the fabric, the shiny side has like a wax coating that makes the paper stick to the fabric. I then cut out the pieces of fabric with the paper stuck to them.  When you go to run these threw your printer, make sure there is no loose threads or wrinkles in your fabric paper. Wrinkles are easy to iron out before hand.  After you print on them, you can heat set them if you wish, I usually don’t, as most of the thing are for either minis or for keepsake quilts.

Pat Thompson

Computer printer fabric: Try a large fabric store like Joann's.

Roz Weitzman

Fabric for printing: A company called Pictorico makes a wonderful silk-poly printable fabric that drapes beautifully. It comes on a tear away paper so that additional paper is not needed. My suggestion is that you check the web site and order their sample package which includes a sheet of silk-poly and wonderful other papers. The silk comes in multiple sizes when you order in quantity. The web site also has a location where you enter your type computer and it tells you what to set it at for printing on fabric! www.pictorico.com

Gail

Finishing Cross Stitch Rugs: Does your cross stitch rug pattern include any type of solid border that goes all around the outside of the pattern? If so, I'd suggest that when you finish the rug, (before you cut any excess fabric away) you first of all run a line of FrayChek along the two long edges of the rug and then cut across the two shorter edges about three or four rows from the last stitched row. Pull out the horizontal threads to make a fringe at each end. THEN, iron an iron-on interfacing to the back of the fabric using a piece that extends beyond the two long edges. And, finally, using good, sharp scissors, cut along the long edges of the rug right up against the edge of the stitches. When you are done cutting, run another line of FrayChek for added insurance and let dry. And that should do it. If you don't have an outside border of stitches, then I would just iron the interfacing to the back to help prevent the fabric from raveling, and cut the rug out to whatever size you want.

Mary Lynne Simpson

Freezer Paper: For those of you who cannot find freezer paper, may I suggest using label paper.  It comes without pre-cut labels here in the good ole USA, but even so, it works wonderfully to run cloth through your computer.   Iron your fabric (if it needs it), place on the sticky side of the paper & smooth with your fingers.  Trim edges so loose threads can't get caught in the printer.  I use it all the time as I threw out my iron years ago (LOL).

Sharon Begley

Freezer paper: I was told that you can get the freezer type paper from patchwork places. I have not looked as yet as I usually do another method suggested to me by Mary Burrowes. Mary told me to do as follows: Use fine material [lawn etc]-- Take an A4 sheet of ordinary copier paper and spray with spray adhesive. Place this on the material and make sure no wrinkles [can iron on if wished] then trim material to the paper size and make sure no loose threads to tangle. Place in printer material side down and print whatever you wish.

I have used this method several times in my HP printer and never had any problems. The copier paper is always on hand so this is both convenient and cheap.

Maude

Printing on fabric: I recall reading about another method of printing on fabric.  You get the sticker sheets made for printers and stick the fabric on that, print then peel. Obviously this needs to be the full sheet rather than the address label sort.

Charlene

Braided Rug: My country kitchen has a "braided" rug my mother made which turned out well; she said it was easy. She put a square of felt in an embroidery hoop, then stitched around and around in an oval shape using a chain stitch and all 6 strands of floss in the skein, changing colors periodically, till it was the right size, then took the felt off the hoop and trimmed down to about 1/8" border around the edges with pinking shears as another country touch. Not too difficult even for the sewing-impaired and fairly quick.

Loretta Sniarowski

Thin leather: For those who are looking for fine, thin leather, here is a great tip. (I think!) Yesterday I made my regular trip to the local flea market & was thrilled to come across 2 pairs of long, old-fashioned ladies kid gloves, 1 pr. Black & 1 pr. white. I spent last evening picking out all the stitching in both pair. This is a very tedious job, but when it's done it's worth it, as I now have a great supply of wonderful thin leather for upholstery, seat cushions, luggage, books, shoes, or anything else I will need leather for. I did this a couple of years ago- I found a pair of black, opera length gloves & used them to upholster a wing-backed chair that turned out just beautifully.  And the best part, the gloves yesterday were only $1.00 a pair! So keep your eyes open for gloves at flea markets or thrift stores, & if they say "French kid" inside, grab them.

Ann

Pretty Pleater: d.Anne Ruff, who invented and markets the Pretty Pleater you are looking for online, has a website at http://www.danneruff.com

Anne Gerdes

Pretty Pleater: You can get a Pretty Pleater at   http://www.houseofcaron.com They have 1/4" and 1/2".

Carol Griffith

Pleaters: I carry pretty pleaters.

Michelle Geoffrion-Mahler

Chenille: I know there are lots of chenille tips in the fabrics section of the archives, but one tip I didn't see is for doing needle punch chenille quicker and easier.  Instead of using embroidery floss and continually having to add new thread, just use an ordinary spool of sewing thread!  I made a great bedspread complete with all the neat little designs a few years back. Took me about a week or two of sitting through my kids swimming lessons to complete it!

Bonnie

Chenille Bedspread: I have the most wonderful chenille yarn on my web site that can be used to make chenille bedspreads, robes or rugs etc ...there are LOTS of uses.  Follow the link below.  Also I added a picture of projects that have been made using this yarn. It comes in a bunch of fantastic colors.

Michelle Geoffrion-Mahler

Draping Linens: I pin my bedding in place with as many long pins as it takes. I have the bed sitting on a ceiling tile covered with wax paper, so that I can anchor the bed in place by putting hat pins all around it. Then I cover the head and foot boards with a plastic sandwich baggy and then I spray with heavy duty spray starch. I do this several times letting it dry between each coat. I've done beds for over 10 houses this way and have been very satisfied with the results. Incidentally my beds are made from the mattress up with a fitted bottom sheet a top sheet to match or coordinate a blanket that blends in, pillows with matching cases and then a bedspread; sometimes these are quilted and sometimes lace and sometimes plain, My curtains are done in a similar manner as the bed. I draw the outline of the window on graph paper, thumb tack it to a ceiling tile or macrame board, cover it with wax paper. My curtains rods are made of white wire hangers bent at a right angle at each end. I thread curtains on rod: push rod into a pre-made hole at each end of window drawing (just like it would be hanging in the actual window.)

Then I make the pleats or gathers holding each one in place by sticking a pin through the curtain into the tile beneath. When all are in place I spray with heavy duty spray starch, several coats, drying between each coat. Then I remove the pins, take the curtain rod off the board and insert into pre drilled hole on either side of window and voila there are my curtains, looking lovely. I've 12 doll houses and more than half are all curtained and I'm working on the rest of them

Patricia

Chenille spread: I made a design on graph paper and cross stitched the design, on 24 count ivory Aida with ecru thread. If you want the design to be flush with the fabric use 1 ply embroidery thread, if you want it to stand up a bit use 2-3 strands. I copied a design from a catalogue and it came out perfect.

Jo