Punch Needles: I found 2 punch needles for you. One is the standard model from Herrschners for $10.00 - website is

http://www.herrschners.com

and the other one is called Easy Punch and can be manual or electric for $19.99 from Maplewood Crafts - Toll free #1-800-899-0134. They have kits, thread etc. They are located in PA.

Carol Griffith

Back of Needlework

Needlework At Shows: As for looking at the back of needlework, I do not mind if people wish to see the backs of my rugs. Most of my samples at shows are sort of attached to my display and visibly priced, but I have three or four that are touchable, and I encourage people to examine them. I prefer to take orders for finished pieces, so each customer gets a piece made just for them, that has not been handled by others. I also usually have a work in progress with me-- it's a wonderful aid in explaining how to do things to people, and shows the unfinished back of the piece too.

Michelle Fox

Handling Needlework: I have done ribbon-winning counted cross-stitch and other forms of needlework for about 20 years. NEVER have I minded anyone looking at the back. Like you, I was proud of the work I do. Those who don't want you to look must have something to hide! Years ago, a dear friend of mine did beautiful crewel embroidery. Once she did a piece with owls on a tree branch. When she got it back from the framers, something didn't look right to her. Her work was so perfect even on the back that the framer had framed the backside. Now, that's good work!

Martha Simpson Nock

Handling Needlework: I just now remembered an article in Nutshell News a couple of years ago (?) about a woman's absolutely exquisite petitpoint rugs (silk thread, silk gauze, very, very expensive!) and one of the pictures showed the back of one of her rugs (which was, of course, perfect). If you've ever seen the back of some cross stitch or needlepoint done by a newer stitcher (or one who's not obsessed with it :)), you'll know why it's a good idea to look at the back of the work if you're planning on purchasing it. And if the dealer says "that's an insult" - don't buy it.

Mary Lynne in Huntington, WV

Fimo Warmer/Softener: For any one interested in a warmer for Fimo: You can make a warmer that will work great. It is made like a bean bag. Cut two rectangular shaped pieces of heavy fabric about 5" x 10". Put wrong sides together and stitch (zigzag or surge) around 3-1/2 sides, leaving just about a 2-3" opening. Turn the fabric and fill loose packed with UNCOOKED rice (not instant) moderately full (1/2to 3/4). Stitch up the opening.

This rice bag can then be placed in the microwave for a couple of minutes (experiment with time) . It will heat up the rice and stay warm for awhile. Place wrapped Fimo (unless you want to stain your bag) on top of one end of the bag and fold over. This will keep the Fimo warm for about 2 hours. This could also be pre-made into an envelope shape to slip the Fimo in. These are also great to make and take with you when you need a neck or hand warmer at outside events.

Debbie Laue

Decoupage liquid:  I use the decoupage liquid as a glue and over the top of the fabric or paper as a sealer. The surface I am "gluing" to will have a coat of paint or primer on it so the decoupage liquid doesn't soak in & disappear. This liquid comes in Gloss or Matte,so you can get shiny or dull finishes on paper. It doesn't matter on fabric, as far as my experience goes.

Ann in AZ

Towels: You can make your own towels.  I use an old thin-worn bathrobe or washcloth for bathroom towels and decorate them with a ribbon and a small flower or a bow after I've folded them.  For a kitchen towel I go through the quilt basket at Joann's for fat quarters (I think that's what they are called! I'm not a quilter:) ) that are gingham or use an old worn dish towel.

Marsha

Fabric Glue: All this talk of glues, and no one has mentioned Fabritac, I find it indispensable for gluing polyester fabric and trims as well as trims with metallic threads in them!

Alice Zinn

Ironing:  Sammy Smith sells the greatest mini ironing board.  It is a treasure for anyone that does doll clothes.  There is also a small iron that I purchased from dAnneRuff. Sams@ici.net

Rhoda

Eyescrews: Someone asked about small eyescrews.   MicroMart has them in their catalog.

Another person talked about trying to crochet and having the DMC floss coil. This solution works for doing cross stitching - which is to thread your needle with floss and before making the "waste knot",  run the needle and floss through a sheet of laundry anti static material.  It works like a charm and gives off a nice scent.   Perhaps it would work with crocheting also.

Jeanette

Basket of Yarn: I made a basket filled with balls of yarn. Cut a plastic drinking straw into pieces each about 1/2" long. Thread a large-eyed needle with embroidery floss and wrap around and around (going through the middle of the straw) until it's covered all around (adjust as you go). It looks just like the real thing and can be made in dozens of colors!

Jan in Charlotte

No Sew Pillows: Take fabric a little larger than you want your pillow to be  1/4" is good. Stuffing squared off the size you want your pillow to be: Wonder under or Stitch witch, iron-on fabric glue in sheets.

Stack the pillow in this order:

one piece of fabric, face DOWN
one piece fabric glue
stuffing
one piece fabric glue
one piece fabric face UP

Iron around the edges, keeping them straight. Heat a crochet hook point on the iron and set it in the center of your pillow to make a button type indent. Hold it there for a few minutes and it will heat the glue inside of the pillow. Now trim with scissors around the edges. You have a no sew pillow. You can glue trim or lace around the edge for a fancy look

Pillow # 2

Cut two pieces of card the size of your pillow. Cut two pieces of fabric larger than card. Have two pieces of stuffing. Layer: fabric, stuffing, card.

Wrap fabric around card trim and glue. Do this two times. Glue the two pieces of finished pillows together, back to back. Add trim around the edge

BJ   >^,,^<

Marsha