Marble Floors: I use Yes glue to put the marble paper down. If you want a gloss finish, I put a think piece of Plexiglas down on a bathroom floor. As long as all your trim pieces cover the edges so that you can't see it's Plexiglas, it looks great... if you want that glossy.

Fannye in TX

Hanging Wallpaper: I apply my miniature wallpaper the same way I decoupage in real life.

(1) I coat the surface the paper will be applied to with a healthy coat of plain white glue - school glue, not heavy craft glue.

(2) I dip my paper into warm water. Please note: I said DIP not SOAK. The latter is only applicable if you want to make paper mache. This relaxes the fibers and is a great assist in the elimination of air bubbles.

(3) I coat my hands with white glue. This keeps them from grabbing or tearing the paper.

(4) I apply my damp paper to my gooey surface. It will slide easily by gently placing my entire hand, palm down, over the center of the paper.

(5) When satisfied with placement, I use a brayer (rubber roller) to smooth my paper. Do not use the side of a credit card as a smoothing tool in this type of application. NOTE: the damp paper opens the fibers and allows air to escape through the paper. I do not have to worry about smoothing from the center to the outer edge, etc. Or have a panic attack when I find an air bubble. The damp paper delays drying time and gives me all the time I need to be satisfied with the application. My only concern is to be sure my paper is pushed gently and thoroughly against my floor, wall or ceiling.

(6) The next step is to use a damp household sponge to remove the excess glue from the top and edges of the paper. I rinse the sponge after each

stroke. You can't "clean" if you don't keep the sponge clean. My final step is to clean me. I usually am wearing more than one small sign of my efforts. I am especially famous for wiping my hands on my bottom.

(7) I like to seal with the same acrylic varnish I use on the canvases I paint. My favorite brand is FolkArt water based varnish by Plaid. It is non-yellowing and water clean-up. I use a sponge brush to apply this. NOTE: you can practice this technique with any scrap piece of paper and scrap piece of wood or tile. Doesn't hurt to get the "feel".

- In response to your query about the wallpaper sample you would like to use for tile, I would apply it exactly as the mfg. instructs. This is probably premixed wallpaper adhesive and soaking your piece of paper to activate the glue on the back side. It would not hurt to call any store that sells items made by this mfg. to verify their directions.

- Before I go, I'd like to remind you that your creation is an artistic expression of you. Don't worry too much about perfection in your work. If you strive for satisfaction, you will be much happier. If there is a bubble in the floor when it has dried - break it, color the hole black, lay miniature fire crackers and a box of matches beside it and you have created the presence of the naughty little boy that played with matches in the house! My point is to learn to roll with the punches and keep your sense of humor. Often the boo-boos are the greatest challenge to our creativity and the best encouragement to express our individual personalities.

Becky

Sealing Paper: J. Hermes makes "Super Sealer" which is brushed on and dries to a gloss. I have used it on floors quite often.

Also if you cut art work from catalogues, you can glue it to cardboard or mat board, brush on the sealer and before it dries rebrush to imitate artists strokes or "pounce" on it with a fine sponge and it looks very authentic when framed.

When I use real wallpaper, I use real paste. Some of the papers are so thick that dh paste doesn't seem to do the job.

Dani

Preparing metal miniatures: I have used almost every kind of paint except water colors. They all seem to work OK. We wash them with soap and water, and sometimes rinse them with vinegar and then clear water.

Tom Berkner

Texture on printed pictures: Use a small brush and matte "Mod Podge" to achieve a brush painted effect on a print. This product is available at craft shops all over. Affix the print to a cardboard surface, when dry, paint over the entire picture with the Mod Podge then texturize the wet medium with the small brush: make swirls on minute brush strokes to bring the rint to life. Let dry, then frame.

Sharon Krauss

If you use acrylic matt gel finish (or even white glue) and apply little strokes of it with a small brush it makes a great "oil paint" finish. You need to be a bit generous with the amount as it shrinks when dry and take your heart attack meds first because it goes on almost white but DOES dry clear. Just to be sure what you have will work use it first on a scrap picture from a magazine, Also if you try to use a copy made on an ink jet the color runs. If you want to age a picture you can quickly dip it in a light stain. The oil stains make it a bit translucent. I often do this with oriental prints I want to make hangings or screens out of. Gives them just enough of the translucence to almost look like rice paper.

Anita

Painting: I'm also in the process of painting windows, and found a wonderful tape at the Builders place, don't know it's Proper name, but it's 'low-tack' tape, which means it doesn't leave residue on the surface when it's removed. Check the painting section in your building place or hardware store.

Painting the outside of the windows after they're placed isn't a problem, it's painting the inside after they're in place that is! And the task becomes more grueling if you need to do more than one coat and ? varnish. So, at least do the inside before you paint? But, won't you need to have the inside walls finished first?? It gets so complicated!!!!

And I believe (correct me if I'm mistaken) that the outside of the house needs to be finished before the windows are in place.

Janet Kay in Oregon

>> Painting the outside of the windows after they're placed isn't a problem, it's painting the inside after they're in place that is! <<

And that is why I don't glue in windows or doors. I use a bit of Minihold.

Carol

RGT's Windows: Congrats on your Newport purchase! It's a good sized house, and the instructions are very well done. I've built 4 of this model ! :)

My first suggestion in line with your question about assembling the windows first, then painting.... This is OK, but leave one side UNATTACHED - the plastic 'window pane' slides into the frame. I have sanded, etc., then glued

3 sections of each window frame together...after the glue was dry, I would go ahead and paint. along with the 'unattached' final frame section of each window. Once you've painted all the window framing, go ahead and slide in the plastic 'panes' then glue the final section of framing in place.

I would also suggest that you read thru the instructions, and begin to think about what paint colors you will want for certain areas, like the outer, exposed (exterior) edges of the floors....these need to be painted before you glue/assemble them....i.e., the second floor actually extends beyond the outer walls (on the exterior of the house), so it's far easier to have those areas painted before you glue the second floor in place - it will be on top of the first floor walls. I also use nails to hold the floor as well as a line of glue along the top edges of those walls...gives the house a bit more stability and strength.

There is a lot of 'pre-planning' in this particular line of RGT kits, but they really do turn out nicely. I hope I've helped - have a great time!

Laura in OKC

RGT windows: I am STILL building that same dh, though I can say, all windows are completed. You def want to paint the windows before you assemble. I put an unpainted one together and rubber banded it for a sample so I could take a look at it thru all steps. Then I put each window together, b4 painting and marked the glue part with an X so I wouldn't paint it! It really helped with the interruptions I received; phone, dogs, cats, rabbits, kids (who for some reason were hungry), doorbell, kids friends, car pooling laundry.... After the first time I was stopped dead in my tracks when I didn't want to be I tried it this way and it calmed me down considerably (or so my kids thought!).

The other thing I learned was to paint or wallpaper the inside rooms BEFORE you put the windows in! If you don't believe me, just come over to my house for an afternoon of painting/papering while the windows are in. I made real wood floors for mine, (b4 I put it together).

Lisa Lynn

Scrapbook paper for wallpaper: I have had great success in using scrapbooking papers for wallpaper. Be sure to use a glue such as Mrs. Stovers. I have found mini versions of mini wallpapers at one of the store that I go to. A real deal at $.35 for an 8-1/2 X 11 sheet. These types of stores also have a great selection of stickers that can be used for many things: wallpaper borders, plates, decals on furniture, pictures, decorative trims on furniture.

I have also used rubber stamps on furniture and fabrics. If you use a gray ink on furniture, this will give you an outline pattern that you can hand paint. It really gives the illusion that you are a talented painter.

Briar P

Marble Tile Floor: I would make a posterboard pattern of the bathroom floor, cutting it to fit exactly the space needed. Then, I would glue my individual tiles to the posterboard - using Bond Instant Gripp glue...it's a better adhesive than Tacky brand (in my humble opinion). It will adhere much faster, and hold the tiles in place better, while the glue dries. Put a piece of foil on top of the "tiled" floor and weight it down with a few good books, so that it will dry nice and flat. Then just trial fit the whole floor again to make sure everything is the way you want it. If there's no wiring running across the floor, then use the same glue to install the finished floor, and again weight it down to dry. Oh yes...about finishing the "marble paper"....use Delta brand clear satin or gloss varnish. Use a GOOD quality brush to apply several coats....this stuff usually only takes 15 minutes or so to dry between coats...more, of course, when humidity is high.

Laura in OKC

Coffee in stucco: One thing you may want to be aware of is the coffee grounds might color your stucco. In making my Secret Garden, I used coffee grounds for dirt, as I always do, and when it got swept over the patio stones, they discolored. Actually that turned out OK--made it look more realistic--but you might want to do a practice piece.

Betty in Bellevue, WA

The dried, used coffee filters are a great brown color, and look like a dark parchment, almost leather-like. The material of the filter is fairly sturdy by then, and would seem to be easy to work with, maybe for covering books, or that leather-looking wallpaper...

Therese in Delaware

Castle Walls: thought I would give a summary of my question on how to do castle walls. Remember, my limitations were 1. Little weight and 2. Minimal artistic painting. So! while I got many responses, some didn't meet the requirements - such as stone molds and poured goo...

1. Many folks, even Rik himself, recommended the Paperclay technique. I have poured over the article in the May 2000 issue of Miniature Collector, and think I can probably do the painting half well. I do have some concerns about the cost of the Paperclay, but think I can buy it in a larger size than my craft store had.

2. Collette sent pictures and very precise directions for painting on top of cardboard cut out and glued on stones, using the Kleenex technique for some texture. Very cheap, very lightweight, but using the "Pepto Bismal pink" paint to start has me worried. while I know the pink will slip into the background as paint gets layered, remember I am painting impaired. Still, worth consideration.

3. The 'stone' page for scrapbooks. These pages are 12 x12, are stiff and have a finish, and were 33 cents each when I got to the store. I confess, I bought 21 pages. they actually look very good, but of course are one dimensional. I will use them for inside, and use either #1 or #2 above for outside.

Beth in Maine

Marble Floor Tiles.....you might try finding some marble style paper. Mount sheets onto posterboard, and then cut into squares before 'tiling' the floor of your rooms.

Laura in OKC

Marble look tiles: There are so many was to do this but a really fast and easy way would be to get the marbleized contact paper, cut into tiles and reassemble onto a sheet of something cut the size to fit the floor. That way if you find something better several years from now, it won't be hard to change. I was able to find some heavy plastic to use as a floor base. I've found it allows me to clean the corners of the room easily by removing it as well as letting me fasten the floor coverings in place so they don't curl.

Laurie Sisson

Marble look tiles: I found some wonderful green marble look wrapping paper at the Container Store. I gave it a couple of coats of a glossy spray, mounted it on poster board and cut into 1" squares. Looks great and was very easy and inexpensive.

Briar P

Marble Floors: I have a tile floor project on my website that uses laminate edge-banding.

It's time consuming, but very easy to do and looks fabulous. I bought several rolls of the laminate in different marble colors from my local Home Depot. I understand that it's not being carried as a stock item anymore, but they will special order it. Check it out!

http://members.tripod.com/miniwizz/tileflor.html

Jan Harris

Painting Plastic: An easy way to paint plastic is to mix the paint with an Elmer's (white) type glue

Marsha in Vegas