STUCCO: When I made my Southwest roombox, I used a product called Sculptamold. It's a dry, white paper-type product that you mix with water. At first I was afraid it might soften or discolor over time, but I've had it at least six years, and it's just fine. It is pretty easy to work with. It should be mixed in small batches because it starts to dry fairly quickly, but you can add more water as you go, if needed. To make a niche, I cut an opening right through the plywood, then glued a piece of poster board to the outside of the box, and coated the whole thing with Sculptamold (just a thin layer inside the niche). Alice suggested cardboard tubes for the fireplace, and that works well. The only problem I had with this stuff is that it dries your hands out quickly, so I used disposable gloves.

Cheri

Thought for various stucco (1" or 1/2" or 1/4," , etc.) sand comes in various sizes like fine; medium, etc., paint glue on surface drizzle sand on to glue; after dry shake of excess and paint. Or; mix proper size sand with Mod Podge and palate knife it onto surface.

Bob in Hollywood, FL

Here's an idea:  put your finished dollhouse on a turntable/lazy susan so that you can turn it to all angles without having to disrupt the contents inside or hassle with turning it on the table top.

Nursemini

Saving scraps: This is a little tip for beginners and anyone else that is building a slot and tab dollhouse.  I have had mine under construction for a number of years and a few moves (waffling about the wiring) and in the process managed to misplace the dormer roofs.  Tried to measure and cut new ones and there was too big a gap between dormer roof and main roof as I had to cut it on an angle.  Was looking through the box the other day and looking at parts I had not popped out yet when I realized I had the outline/pattern from the dormer roofs right there in the scrap pieces that I, as a life time member in packrat anonymous, did not throw away.   I just laid that on a new piece of wood traced it and cut it out.  Much better fit.  So it pays to keep the outline of parts you used even if you finish the house in case you ever need to replace it.

Elizabeth Cooper

Craft Staining Gel: This is an acrylic based paint / "stain", made by most of the companies that make the acrylic craft paint that we all buy in the small 2 oz bottles.  I use Folk Art and Deco Art.  Like the Deco Art but basically they are all much the same.  These are water soluble and dry just as fast as the acrylic paint.  Comes in a few different colors.

If your local shop doesn't carry those, you can take any color you like and cut it down with a few drops of extender. Just enough to make it thinner (more flow able)    This will cut the thickness of the paint but not affect the intensity of the   color.  If you want it to be more transparent, like a stain, then you add   a few drops of water to it.  Takes  experimentation.

The chair on the DIY page was done by cutting down regular paint with extender and glue. The desk on my For Sale page is basically the same color, maybe a tad lighter, and it is done with the stain.

Debi

Have you seen the wonderful no "stain markers" made by MinWax? They are great when you just have a little piece of wood to stain, like a picture frame or a baseboard and really don't want to have all the mess of cleaning up a brush. They come in assorted colors. I just love them. I bought mine at Home Depot.

Paula Foerder

Free Catalog: Anyone who will be participating in the on-line miniature class really should get the woodturners catalog from Craft Supplies USA. Even if you're NOT going to woodturning, this catalog is a GREAT source for glues, finishes, and all kinds of products that miniaturists can use. AND IT'S FREE. You can get it by calling Craft Supplies USA at (800) 551-8876 or go to their
web site:

http://www.craftusa.com and order it there.

Gerda

Those cheap-o brushes Beverly mentioned are available at Dollar Tree stores, 24 brushes for $1.00. For larger areas to stain get the disposable foam brushes.

Beth

Wood hardener: I first asked about Minwax's wood hardener because someone mentioned using it when working with "found" wood like driftwood or interesting-shaped roots. But when I spoke to people at the Durham Wood Show Minwax stand, they said carvers used it to strengthen wood for carving fine details like feathers. I need something like that for my wooden peg dolls. I can make them down to about 1 1/4 inches high quite easily, but when I go below that, no matter what wood I try, the joints get very fragile. I'm down to about 1/64 inch thick wood for each piece. So the hardener might work. Apparently you mix it 50-50 with acetone. It's available at Home Depot. To save anyone else trying somewhere smaller, Home Hardware as a group don't carry it and won't order it.

Frances

Finishing hardwood floors: When using the flooring sheets from Houseworks or Miniature House, you must be careful putting a wet stain on them. The moisture can peel off the paper backing that they are attached to. So if I like the color of the wood as it is, such as Oak or Walnut, I just put a coat of Butcher's Wax or another clear paste wax on it. Wait a little while and buff it. Now if you want to enhance the color you can use shoe polish in a color. Just buff it. If you want it to really look great put another coat of clear wax over the shoe polish. I find the floors look really fantastic this way.

Lorraine Scuderi

Finishing sheet flooring: When using a wax to finish the wood flooring that comes on a sheet backing, I use steel wool (#0000) to apply the wax. It sands as it finishes, no pre-sanding needed. I use Bri-Wax which can be purchased at most woodworking stores or from their catalogs. Bri-Wax comes in clear and 3 stain colors, so you can sand, stain and finish in one step by applying with steel wool, then wipe with a paper towel (this buffs it to a satin shine). It also doesn't show any overlapping. It comes in a Simonize type can and a very little amount on the steel wool goes a long way. Keep in the fridge when not using and apply while still cold. I would suppose similar brands would work the same. Its amazing what a smooth and beautiful finish you get. People will think you labored for hours when it took only a matter of minutes.

Mary Kay Gentile Ft. Myers, FL

Thin Brass: It is self adhesive foil. It can be cut with scissors - it's thinner than paper. Car modelers use it for adding chrome to cars etc. I have used Gold, copper, chrome and brushed aluminum finish. I figure the gold gives a good brass finish. The website has some good how to's and examples. Good plastic kit model shops ought to sell it.

Try "Bare-metal" from Bare Metal Foil Co.http://www.bare-metal.com P.O. Box 82, Farmington, Michigan 48332, (248) 476-4366, (248) 477-0813

Sandra in New Zealand

Mini-wax now makes a pen with their product in it. This would be great for getting around banisters, wood furniture, etc.

Billie

Kitchen Appliance Enamel: To get the appliance look to wood I have used the patching plaster in the little tubs. It is soft and all mixed for you. I use a credit type card and smooth the plaster on the wood very carefully and in a thin layer. Sand until smooth then do it again, and again. I paint it with a Enamel paint from the train and model car shop.

Billie Joy Eller

Resin Chairs: The chairs you found sound like the "Take a Seat Chairs." Resin, and all around $12 to $14. They are wonderful. I have several. I upholstered the mission rocker with Christmas fabric for my Christmas room and intend to do the same with one of the leather club chairs and ottomans. I just put a light covering of glue and stuck the fabric right to the resin. On one cushion I first added a thin foam before the fabric. They come out great.

Fannye in TX

Hutches: If you take one of those little inexpensive hutches you are bashing and drill a quarter inch hole in it, one of the light bulb, cord and plug units sold by Houseworks (#2215, "Screw-Base Bulbs" - two to a package) fits the hole exactly. You take off the plug, put it through the hole, and replace the plug. A little touch of glue (not sensitive to heat) will hold it in there - actually, it will stay in without it. I've drilled the hole in the top, and in the back of them. The model of hutch I work with has a design piece mounted on the top which hides the cord coming out of the top; the doors have no "glass" in them at all. I put "stained glass" in the hutches I make - the light behind the glass makes a lighted hutch with stained glass doors. I've seen some very pretty ones done with tiny print fabric or lace mounted in the cabinet doors, gathered on wooden toothpicks and glued to the inside.

Terry

Painting Wire Wicker Furniture: As wire or metal furniture normally needs a base coat, I would probably try spray painting them the color that you wanted over the white that is there. I would use a light spray paint like Testors that you can get at a hobby store. You may need two coats.

Isabel, CT

Chrysnbon finishing stain - Try using the stuff that comes with the kit. Paint it on one piece at a time and while it is still wet, lay a piece of Kleenex down on it and then pick it back up again. And strangely enough, it does end up looking more like wood. I did it on the sewing machine cabinet and was pleased with how it turned out.

Mary Lynne

I glue cording onto upholstered furniture with ordinary tacky glue and a toothpick. You must use the glue sparingly so it doesn't show, but even if it does, it dries almost clear. And as I've learned from later trying to remove the cording, it sticks really well.

Pat Molyneaux

Leather Furniture: I had to refurbish old furniture that had been sitting around exposed and collecting dust for 15 years. It was really grimy. After recovering one sofa, which was extremely difficult, I decided to paint over the fabric of the other pieces with acrylic paint. It worked well, for the most part. However, there was one piece where someone had "painted" the flowers on fabric with magic marker. Every time I painted, the magic marker bled through. Finally, to stop the bleed through, I sprayed the painted fabric with polyurethane. The polyurethane on the terra cotta acrylic paint looked exactly like leather upholstery (and it stopped the bleed through). I painted one more time to cover the bleed through spots, sprayed polyurethane one more time and...Voila! Leather furniture. I'm sure this tip could be adapted with other finishes.

Tomi