Wainscoting Height: Linda, although we do the wainscoting to look pretty, it was originally intended to serve a purpose .... keeping your chairs from beating into your wall/wallpaper. A friend was doing this in her real house a few years back and had the same question .... she was advised to push her chairs against the wall and to place the wainscoting at a height where the chairs would neither bump against her wallpaper nor look overwhelmed by the wainscoting. Not only was the wainscoting functional, but it looked "right" in relation to her furniture. You might try posing your mini chairs against the wall in the same way. Good luck!

Paula

"Wainscoting Height: Should you happen to want to do an Arts and Crafts style house, the wainscoting goes almost to the top of the wall, leaving just enough room at the top for a (varies from about 8" to 2') frieze of wallpaper or stenciling.

Tess, Louisville, KY, USA

Wainscoting height: The height may vary according to the era that you are depicting. My son lives in a house in NC that was built in the 1860's and the height is 4' 6". This was in the hall, kitchen and bath. I have seen it from 30" to 5 feet. In bathrooms and kitchens, also nurseries, it was common to have it 5 feet high. I assume that it protected the old horse hair plaster that way. So place it where you want it or where the residents of your house want it. My families tell me all about their history and how they want their houses decorated.

Shelby

Wainscoting Height: Growing up, I lived in a house that had Wainscoting down it's twenty foot hallway and in the dining room. We had the ten inch high baseboard and then the wainscoting. But, it didn't stop at chair height like the more modern styles do. It came up to shoulder height and above that, there was trim molding (not chair rail) that was approximately three inches wide. If you would like the exact height, I can call my mother and ask her to measure it. She still lives in that house and although it's now painted, the wainscoting is still there.

Peggy O'Neill

Wainscot: My thought on wainscot would be similar to a rule I've seen somewhere (?) for wallpapering which stated you should never apply 2 designs at the exact center of the wall with the border between, such as a stripe at the bottom half a border and then a print on top. They should either meet above or below the center point. It seems that this would apply to wainscot as well.

Linda Miller (Bow, WA,)

Memories of wainscoting: During the war we lived in an old house in London, England, and inherited the old decorating features. The dining room had brown lincrusta about 3 feet high all round. It was so old it was beginning to peel away from the wall. As kids, using this room as our playroom, we used to pick bits off the top as it came loose. Looked like the rats had got at it by the time my parents could redecorate.

Also had a huge table in that room covered with an old brocade-like tablecloth with long fringes all round. We used to knot and braid the fringes. Mother would discover this on the rare occasions she wanted to use the dining room to dine in, and we'd have to spend just as long undoing all the knots.

I'm doing my Phoenix and the Carpet roombox this way. Found some lincrusta-like paper at the scrapbook store. Now I'm looking for just the right fabric for the tablecloth. I plan to braid the fringes too!

Kay in Ottawa, Canada

Stairs: I received the following info from Fannye: "Most of the time when the pieces of wood to be applied to the steps, it is drilled with a hole for the spindle to fit in. If yours isn't drilled you might want to do that. Then you can set the spindle in the hole with wood glue. Use a small square or a piece of wood that is cut perfectly square to set the spindle straight. After the spindles are all dry then put the railing on. Just a touch of glue on the top of the spindles and it will let you line up the railings. If your stairs are straight, you can lay it on the worktable to put the railing on. I'll admit that this is probably the pickiest part of the house. -- Fannye"

Also look at this illustration I just found and note the the newel post belongs on the "first step," not in front on the floor as Stephenson notes and for realism you need two balusters per step (cutting one shorter than the other):
http://homeadvisor.msn.com/improve/flooring/stairsbanisters/intro.asp

http://www.arcways.com/factguid.htm

http://www.stairworld.com/

Debora Biggers

Stair railings: When I built my "Harrison DH" I wanted a real stair railing instead of the die cut one that came with the kit, so I bought the spindles in the packages you can get at a dollhouse supply store or on line. I also bought the pieces of banister, which the spindles tops fit into, and the newel posts for the top and bottom of the stairs and corners of the stairway opening on the top floor. I placed the posts where I wanted them and cut my banister pieces, measuring several times to be sure I was correct. You have to mitre the ends since the banister will be slanted and the posts upright. I figured out the distance between where the spindles would be placed by measuring the steps, taking care to measure from the same place on each step where the spindle would go, then stuck them into the banister using a good wood glue. Now I had a piece of banister with spindles dangling from it. I put a dad of glue on the bottom of each spindle and ends of the banister and attached them to the newel posts. Then I moved the spindles in place. I eyeballed them, but you can buy tiny levels in the camping dept. of some discount stores and in RV stores. All this should be done before the glue holding the spindles dry so you can move them around if need be. Don't use hot glue.

I just added a new page to the bottom of my dollhouse page showing close-ups of some of my favorite mini's I have bought as well as some I have made. I have included a close-up of my stair railing going around the stairway opening on the top floor. I just added another picture trying to show you how the spindles look from underneath the banister. You might be able to get a pretty good idea of how I did the railings. Going around the opening I used banister along the floor for the spindles to sit on. I turned the grooved side down so it would look more finished. I hope this helps those of you who are trying to do stair railings. If anyone wants a close-up of a picture, please let me know. http://members.aol.com/dolztoc/WelcomeToMyDollhouse.html

Linda

Flooring -- "Can anyone help with suggestions on how to make a parquet floor? The floors in the dollhouse have only mini paper rugs (cannot afford the real ones), but think the wood does not look too good. Susan "

HBS at http://www.miniatures.com has a small selection of genuine wood,
peel-and-stick veneers, one of which is a parquet pattern. But I suggest you check out the much larger selection of significantly less expensive wood veneers at http://www.vandykes.com

These veneers are used for marquetry ... you know, those beautiful, intricate pictures made entirely from elaborately cut woods? I think a miniature parquet floor would use the same techniques, but with simpler cuts. Also, check the banded inlays and the three inexpensive, round marquetry inlays, which include a flower, a compass and a scallop pattern (similar to common ceiling medallions). My dh is on a base of 3/4" plywood and mounted on a turntable. I don't like the look of the plywood edge and plan to cover it with one of the banded inlays once my landscape base is laid.

Chrissy the Hyphenated in Central New York

Real Parquet flooring: I read you request for real parquet flooring today and thought I would share my method with you all. - There are probably other who may have better ideas I am really pleased with the end result of mine. This can be adopted to planking too. ( I took into account the need to remember the ease of access to electrics too. in my design)

Tip: If you find the Idea daunting as I did, I bought some "paper Parquet" & used it as a "stencil," sticking my wooden pieces on top, after it had been taped to the Wall paper lining paper. also using a 90 Degree child's set square to "set" the angles when starting .. It worked a treat!

I bought some 1/32" X 3" X 24 basswood strips, I used some (Water based wood dye, diluted to 50%) "Liberon- palette wood dye in Medium Oak" & colour washed the whole area using a 4" wide foam polybrush , being careful again not to create overlaps on stained areas. allow to dry prior to using them .

Wipe the area following the grain- removing the excess stain... allow to dry cut them to strips after measuring the floor space. (keep flat whilst drying.. they can sometimes curl)

I then used a large board of wood to fix a larger area of heavy gauge wallpaper lining to as a base for the wooden floor to glue to, this will allow the floor to sit on the dh floor, and be removable should you need to (lighting) at a later date.
Mark out the floor area in pencil accurately- extend the lines though so you can trim to size later again after construction.

Carefully stick the planks to it using wood glue to stain the cut strips Wearing my surgical gloves I applied a bison fine paste wax in Antique pine , (or the same brand but in medium Oak using ) 0000 gauge Very fine steel wool. I don't know if you can get it in the US. - you will have something similar though ?)

Follow instructions.. I applied 2 coats, following the grain as usual. Leave to "Cure" then buff using a clean cotton rag (I used a clean old yellow duster) The result.. I was over the moon!!... the paper glues/double tapes well into the house. I found TIME & accuracy in measuring & marking is the important thing) This technique created a marvelous looking *REAL* parquet floor.!

Chris From Lancashire

Faux stonework: When I used to make model airplanes, there was a terrific product called balsa foam that was commonly used to make faux architectural ruins for dioramas. It can be purchased in sheets or blocks. It is soft enough to cut with a craft knife and can be sculpted or textured with a variety of objects, including a dull pencil, plastic knife, or my kids Playdough prodding tools. You can paint it with regular acrylic paints to look like any finished surface you want. It should still be available at stores selling model airplanes/cars.

Kim in Las Vegas

Faux stonework: I have done some stage set painting (for church productions and such) where I just painted a flat surface light grey or cream (for mortar) and then rock or brick shapes in medium grey or light brown, then used dabs of a lighter shade on the top portion of the rock and a darker shade on the bottom portion of the rock to create light and shadow. In full-size I actually had people come up and feel them - they didn't believe it was a flat wall. I've been thinking of using this technique on my languishing dollhouse on the front tower with "stucco" for the flat walls on either side. Just play around with the light and dark paint to get a 3-d effect (this would probably work best if the stonework is to be background of your mini scene)

Catherine in Toronto

On framing: I recently did my first frame, which I silver-leafed. I have a great tool that helped me a lot, which is a framing clamp. It is basically four long screws and bolts that square up your frame perfectly. I recommend it. I used a miter box, some scrap moulding, wood glue, the clamp and a silver leafing kit. Once you get the frame clamped in, be sure to press it down flat on your work surface to make sure it is nice and even and flat.

Lynette in WNC

gluing technique: >>I have a question for some of you experts who make fine mini-furniture. I just read a tip in SSD that you wipe the excess glue that squeezes out of a joint after it is clamped using a damp rag. Years ago I took a millwork class and was taught that you should always wait until glue dries, then scrape it off because wiping it pushes it into the wood and prevents the stain or other finish from penetrating properly. My question - which is the correct way to clean up the glue? <<

Jacqui in Hilo, Goddess of Chaos

Glue seepage: > How do you keep the glue bumps away when you connect 2 pieces of wood using wood glue?? Give me some ideas on what you do!"
- -From watching The New Yankee Workshop on PBS and classes with Brooke Tucker.......Best Solution......Keep a damp rag on work bench. Glue up your pieces.. Press together ....Clamp. Wipe off excess glue immediately with damp rag.

Patricia / Redwood City, CA

Glue Seepage: - I have received two personal answers so far that I haven't yet seen in SSD - both are from long time woodworkers who say they would always let the glue dry and then carefully scrape it off. Also, if there is only just enough glue for the joint it won't seep and the problem will not occur. This is what I was taught and makes more sense.

Jacqui in Hilo

Shingles: I am shingling my house now. It's a cheap, punch-out kit house, so the roof is that splintery wood stuff. (I don't know what you call it.) I am cutting the shingles with scissors, 3/4" long, from very thin stripwood. They're glued on in rows 1/2" apart, with 1/4" overhang. I use a Monoject syringe to apply a thin bit of Aleene's Tacky Glue to the points at which the shingle touches down. On the bottom row, that is the whole shingle, but above that they angle over one another and only touch in two places. It's slow, but I don't want any glue squeezing out because it would interfere with the way the finishes get absorbed later on. I'm also a klutz and found that if I tried to glue too much at once, the row got crooked, so I do only do about 6 before moving on to another task while that bit dries. Anyway, it is turning out nicely, for whatever that's worth to you!

~Chrissy the Hyphenated

brick making: I've been catching up on my mail and have decided to tell you about the bricks that my dh made to make a brick outhouse for me to use with the log house that my daughter and son-in-law made for me. My husband mixed up some Bondo (used for repairing dents in autobodies). He spread it out on some aluminum foil. After it had set up he cut it with a box knife (razor) into bricks. They even have color variations in them like real bricks

GC99CRAFT

Downspouts: When I needed downspouts I went to the local balloon shop and got the sticks they put on balloons. They are hollow, come in different colors, (or you could paint them), and a flexible straw fits on them so that you can have the curved part of the downspout go whichever way you want. I attached the downspouts to the gutters that are made by Houseworks. Because I was looking for realism for that particular project I wanted downspouts that could actually carry water. Not sure if this is what you had in mind for a 19th century house, but maybe there is a clue here you can use.

Carol

Gutters: you can make gutters from heavy card. See url below and check out the garden shed files. There are patterns for a gutter and downspout that might help you to design what you need. It is amazing what you can make out of cardboard.
http://printies.homestead.com

BarbaraD